running no head gasket in Zilla........
#1
I had an idea.... I run that Tudors no-blow copper head gasket in my bike.
Its flat metal, just like the head/cylinder. Because of this, you need to use a gasket maker around the
studs, and basically the entire surface on the top of the jug, and on top of the gasket (for the head) in order
for it to seal like a head gasket should. It doesnt fill in the imperfections in the metal like a real gasket does because its hard metal.
(hence the use of the gasket maker)
My idea: If I can use that gasket maker and make the copper "gasket" seal, why run that gasket at all?
No gasket would increase compression drastically and would require the use of race gas, but it seems to me like it would
work as long as you used that gasket maker on the entire surface, and around the studs. (just like I am now!)
What do you guys think? I know its kind of stupid, but its really no different than using the copper gasket because the copper is hard metal just like the head/jug. (it doesnt really work as a real "GASKET")
-Matt
Its flat metal, just like the head/cylinder. Because of this, you need to use a gasket maker around the
studs, and basically the entire surface on the top of the jug, and on top of the gasket (for the head) in order
for it to seal like a head gasket should. It doesnt fill in the imperfections in the metal like a real gasket does because its hard metal.
(hence the use of the gasket maker)
My idea: If I can use that gasket maker and make the copper "gasket" seal, why run that gasket at all?
No gasket would increase compression drastically and would require the use of race gas, but it seems to me like it would
work as long as you used that gasket maker on the entire surface, and around the studs. (just like I am now!)
What do you guys think? I know its kind of stupid, but its really no different than using the copper gasket because the copper is hard metal just like the head/jug. (it doesnt really work as a real "GASKET")
-Matt
#5
Mr350X... Having recently been down this road of playing with Tudor's gasket... and having sealing problems.. here's my opinion for what it's worth.
IF (And that's a very big IF) both mating surfaces are true and flat (Within extremely tight tolerances) You MIGHT be able to get a good seal using only a copper spray gasket material.
a Copper gasket is MUCH softer than the aluminum/Steel sleeve materials being mated together here, so it does actually fill in the imperfections as a 'normal' gasket does... just not as well.
I threw out the 'no blow' head gasket because I couldn't get it to seal... no matter what type sealant I tried... I'm assuming that either my cylinder head is warped or the jug. A std gasket still seals her up great! But as you know... they are very very thick
The 'idea' setup is to use viton O-rings, then you get a very good seal, without that darn thick gasket... thus helping the comp ratio.
Depending on elevation... around the 180psi mark is optimal for the mighty 500.
another variable regarding fuel requirements is the squish angle...
IF (And that's a very big IF) both mating surfaces are true and flat (Within extremely tight tolerances) You MIGHT be able to get a good seal using only a copper spray gasket material.
a Copper gasket is MUCH softer than the aluminum/Steel sleeve materials being mated together here, so it does actually fill in the imperfections as a 'normal' gasket does... just not as well.
I threw out the 'no blow' head gasket because I couldn't get it to seal... no matter what type sealant I tried... I'm assuming that either my cylinder head is warped or the jug. A std gasket still seals her up great! But as you know... they are very very thick
The 'idea' setup is to use viton O-rings, then you get a very good seal, without that darn thick gasket... thus helping the comp ratio.
Depending on elevation... around the 180psi mark is optimal for the mighty 500.
another variable regarding fuel requirements is the squish angle...
#7
Dune addict, if ya want to get away from the Head Gasket problem ship your head off to Trinity and have it Oringed. Works wonders!!!!!!! If ya want to run orings and get a bit more power, on ebay there selling Cool Heads, they use orings aswell. If you don't want to run Orings, you can always call Cometic and they can make you a Head gasket out of a thinner material. They've got a long list of gasket types and thickness's that you can order straight from them.
I would say don't try to run the nohead gasket route. It would up the compression way too much!!!!!!!!!!! But whatever floats your boat.
Dink
I would say don't try to run the nohead gasket route. It would up the compression way too much!!!!!!!!!!! But whatever floats your boat.
Dink
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#8
How thick is the head gasket on a 500? The one on my Quadracer is (approximately).025", I had the head shaved .020" and run on 89 octane with no problems.
I dont think it would cause problems due to high compression to run without a head gasket. It is a lot easier to shave the head and keep the stock gasket though.
I dont think it would cause problems due to high compression to run without a head gasket. It is a lot easier to shave the head and keep the stock gasket though.
#9
The fact that the head and jug sealing surfaces warp slightly when the head is torqued down will prevent you from ever sealing without a soft gasket to conform to these imperfections.
#10
Dink,
Gotta be careful on the CoolHeads... If you buy one off the shelf, they arent' grooved for an O-ring. (Just bought one)
Gotta specify that from a custom builder I guess, cause now I've got to cut grooves.
My gripe is... unless you cut your own dome, you'll take what pro-design gives you as far as squish angle, etc.
Trinity can do custom work... But they won't get any more of my $$
Depending on your elevation... there is a great deal of room to mill the head surface without getting too much comp. I'm at 7000', and have milled .120 from my head to get 180psi static pressure.
Good point truckracer, I wasn't even thinking about warpage from the torqued head bolts. Prolly why that solid copper gasket wouldn't work for me... just not soft enough to fill the voids appropriately.
Gotta be careful on the CoolHeads... If you buy one off the shelf, they arent' grooved for an O-ring. (Just bought one)
Gotta specify that from a custom builder I guess, cause now I've got to cut grooves.
My gripe is... unless you cut your own dome, you'll take what pro-design gives you as far as squish angle, etc.
Trinity can do custom work... But they won't get any more of my $$
Depending on your elevation... there is a great deal of room to mill the head surface without getting too much comp. I'm at 7000', and have milled .120 from my head to get 180psi static pressure.
Good point truckracer, I wasn't even thinking about warpage from the torqued head bolts. Prolly why that solid copper gasket wouldn't work for me... just not soft enough to fill the voids appropriately.
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