Okay Zilla owners, my older bro at 23 is looking to get an LT500R in the near future. I know the differences between the 87 and the 88+newer ones. It's just that....are there any weak spots to look at on the frame and stuff like that. Also what are the symptoms of the crankbearings going out in them. Any info would help.

Thanx,
Superstar

 

As far as I know, there are no weak spots to look for in the frame, etc. BUT... most LT500's have been abused, so plan on restoring one, unless you want to pay a arm and a leg for a really nice one. The '87's had larger intake ports, so they made a little more power. They also had 6 head studs instead of 7 like the 88-90 models, so they were prone to blowing head gaskets. You can fix this by installing larger head studs or o-ringing the head. Aside for other little differences (a-arms round instead of square, etc.) those were the main ones.

Because Suzuki used the wrong material for the bearing bosses, they would expand at a different rate than the rest of the engine, so the bearings would start to wobble loose. If forgot what exactly happens after that, but it's bad. To check the bearings, pull off the stator cover (left had side) and grab the stator/magneto/whatever you want to call it and try to wiggle it. If there is any movement, you will need to replace the bearings. Tudor's Performance, Trinity, and most of the big shops will put in new bearing inserts for around $300. This is a permant fix. Check with your local shop too, they might have done some in the past and so you can just give the motor to them.

Hope this helps,
superkev

 

Right on SuperKev!... More additional things to look for might be:

at least on the early models ('87) the swingarm will tend to develp a hair-line crack in the swingarm if it's been used hard. (beginning near the small bolt that holds the chain slider to the swingarm)

Another thing to look for is the cylinder base cracking... especially the two rear flanges.

Any stress cracks in the frame will show up as paint flaking... unless it's been recently painted.. Look for leaks, loose bearings/balljoints, etc.

Do a compression test on the motor... that will HELP determine engine health, and also ask many many questions as to "what's been done" to it. The less mods, the better... from a reliability standpoint.

Good luck finding one that hasn't been beat to death!

 

Thanks guys, I have been thinking about these myself and that's good info to know!

 

These things are all good to look for. A general overall check should tell you all you need to know. By the way I have a Zilla that I need to sell. I bought the new Z last year and the wife says I can only have 1 quad to ride. It is the 1990 Zilla that is mostly stock. New Itp steel rims and Fast trekkers. Extra plastic,headlight, taillight. Give me a call or e-mail vjschwoerer@ckhnet.com Text I live in Wisconsin so it isn't too far. I am asking 2700/trade/offer. Thanks Jim

 

All good advice.
Crank it up, if the vibration level is very high at all is is a good indicator of bad main bearing bosses. If the rest of the bike is in good shape don't be discouraged if you find or suspect it. Just discount the price your willing to pay by the amount of the repair. As was stated earlier Tudors can fix it as well as Trinity and CT Racing.
Zilla's are also very hard on rear axle bearings but their harder on the competition! Find a good one and enjoy the fun!

 

Right now he is looking at an 89' for $3,300 its got a Paul Turner exhaust system, engine and tranny have both been rebuilt just recently, hinson clutchbasket. It needs all new plastic, a rear shock rebuild and a paint job or powdercoating. The swing-arm bearings are good and axle bearings are good. He test drove it and said it was pretty tight (no viabrations or wobbles and drives straight). It's at a dealer and the guy that had it traded it on a Raptor. Do you guys think its worth it?

 

Sounds like it needs all cosmetics... I'd offer $2,500 (I'd also take a copy of NADA price in for leverage against the stealer) (www.NADAGUIDES.com)
Factory plastic is EXPENSIVE!!!! And the aftermarket stuff really SUCKS! (Are you listening Maier??)
Also, depending on who did the work... there are many crappy builders out there along with backyard mech's .....

Good luck!

 

Duneaddict my brother is buying the one scwantzy is selling for $2700 and my brother and me looked at it and my brother said its much better than the one for $3300 overall wise.
Thanx anyways Duneaddict, scwantzy and the others that replied.

LT250RSuperstar

 

One more thing, take a close look at the leading edge of the upper and lower a-arms. If they are scratched, dented, or chipped, you know the owner was always following a banshee, thus the Roost blemishes. But any quadzilla will have that, so you should be ok [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]


RoostKing...