why doesn't anyone in here know all the tricks and modifications for the QR'S?
#1
#2
why doesn't anyone in here know all the tricks and modifications for the QR'S?
Probably because the people who have viewed your post don't know the answer. I'd wait a day or two before flipping out, because on the Suzuki forums, there aren't that many people as on the Yamaha forums, etc. You will get an answer, it just might take awhile.
#3
why doesn't anyone in here know all the tricks and modifications for the QR'S?
actually i am not mad i am concerned about why people wont answer me . i know you cant really tell how i feel through letters. i just urgently want this info. because i am sitting here with my cylinder in my hand ,reeds are sitting here next to all my engine parts in my shop waiting for the "greenlight" on my project. i aint mad at cha's.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
#4
why doesn't anyone in here know all the tricks and modifications for the QR'S?
ok.. a full pipe would be a good start... then a clamp on kand n and a outwear... then some reeds... if u really wanna go sily u can port that and she will fly.. if u have an 88+ on years.. you have a power valve... which really wakes up the motor well too.... jetting and just the norms will wake up that beast
#5
why doesn't anyone in here know all the tricks and modifications for the QR'S?
on a '87 QR... since it's almost the same as my brother's, i'll tell what we've done and what we've thought about.
1- eliminate the airbox, put a K&N w/ outerwears directly on the carb... or if you ride in really dusty conditions, use a uni directly on the carb. if you ride in lots of mud or water, this may be a bad idea...
2- go to a bigger carb, a keihin PWK 39 mm is said to be the best setup for modded LT's
3- use a rad valve. LRD sells larger boots to fit bigger carbs and modified or 'flowed' rad valves for ported motors with big carbs.
4- re-jet to match the changes
* if you don't use a rad valve the stock intake boot will eventually crack & break sue to the stress from the weight of the carb & filter hanging on it... i've seen it.
on my brother's '90 LT (he uses as a duner & some trail riding,) he has a K&N & outerwear directly on a stock carb, & that goes into a standard rad valve. the motor is not ported.... yet. when he puts a ported cylinder on, he will do the same setup with a modified rad valve & bigger carb.
1- eliminate the airbox, put a K&N w/ outerwears directly on the carb... or if you ride in really dusty conditions, use a uni directly on the carb. if you ride in lots of mud or water, this may be a bad idea...
2- go to a bigger carb, a keihin PWK 39 mm is said to be the best setup for modded LT's
3- use a rad valve. LRD sells larger boots to fit bigger carbs and modified or 'flowed' rad valves for ported motors with big carbs.
4- re-jet to match the changes
* if you don't use a rad valve the stock intake boot will eventually crack & break sue to the stress from the weight of the carb & filter hanging on it... i've seen it.
on my brother's '90 LT (he uses as a duner & some trail riding,) he has a K&N & outerwear directly on a stock carb, & that goes into a standard rad valve. the motor is not ported.... yet. when he puts a ported cylinder on, he will do the same setup with a modified rad valve & bigger carb.
#6
why doesn't anyone in here know all the tricks and modifications for the QR'S?
actually i have a full fmf fatty system with k&n filter with outerwears and vforce reeds,prodesign coolhead,boosted ported wiseco piston,rough intake and smoothexhaust on my cylinder,what i meant was small modifications that can be done to the stock carb. or the v-force reeds or any little thing that would help besides bolt-ons,ya know wut i mean?sometimes the small things do a big diffrence, ya know any?
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jrooker6
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04-23-2016 07:36 PM
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