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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 01:55 PM
  #11  
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check all electrical connection and fill with die electric grease
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 02:41 PM
  #12  
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Are you saying you have sheared off a woodruff key? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 04:23 PM
  #13  
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Its not gonna be the key or the cdi. If you have spark, ever, the cdi is good. The key is a huge leap.
The backfire is a symptom of lean, Id say th ecarb still has some blocked passage. Did you actually remove each jet, and look thru them, to see if they were obstucted?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 06:22 PM
  #14  
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What he said.......look at the jets again CLOSELY, but be careful parts get lost very easily if you are not careful(I know from experience). [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
 
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 09:35 AM
  #15  
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<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: hondabuster

Its not gonna be the key or the cdi. If you have spark, ever, the cdi is good. The key is a huge leap.

The backfire is a symptom of lean, Id say th ecarb still has some blocked passage. Did you actually remove each jet, and look thru them, to see if they were obstucted?</end quote></div>



The voice of truth and reason....
 
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 10:09 AM
  #16  
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i have taken all the jets out individually and inspected them to ensure that they are free of obstruction. i've used the OEM parts diagram to take it apart and put it back together to ensure i had all the pieces. and i know losing stuff sucks. the only thing i can think of that is making it backfire so is some how it got knocked of time. i took the cover off the crank case and found the line that shows top dead center and the one for Firing and took the cover off the cam gear i found the mark on the cam gear but i have no idea where that mark should line up with. currently it's running parralel to the top of the head which is at a slight angle. the only reason i say it might be the wood ruff key is because when i called a local repair shop and explained what was going on he said that i might have sheared it off. after starting to remove the crank case cover i decided to stop because i don't have all the tool such as a fly wheel puller. and i'm not to sure how to go about it.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 02:53 PM
  #17  
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If it were me..Id focus on fuel, and not timing.
Have you got a service manual...itll show the timing marks.
Was the air bleed also clear? If you look into the throat of the carb, from the air cleaner side, theres a very tiny hole running paralel to the air flow. Make sure its clear. Usually shooting carb cleaner into it, and blowing it out, from the hole where the pilot jet screws into, will get the dirt out. It supplies the air for mixing the fuel in the idle circuit.
Have you tried pull starting it. Key on, in High, have someone tow it(10mph is fast enough), and use 1/4 throttle. If it fires up...the key isnt sheared. Using 1/4 throttle, will bypass the idle circuits. Make sure the air filter and lid are on, or itll be too lean.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 05:31 PM
  #18  
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tried blowing out all the little jets. as far as pull starting it's an automatic. i need to figure out what position the cam gear should be in. in realative to the crank gear.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 09:32 PM
  #19  
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Yamaha Ultramatics can be bump started. Done it many times.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 09:36 PM
  #20  
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i'll have to give it a try... i'm just ready to pull my hair out
 
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