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98 sport 400 cutting out with battery

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Old 03-12-2018, 09:28 PM
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Default 98 sport 400 cutting out with battery

I have a 96 sport 400L that I'm having problems with. Giving me a big headache. It runs great until I hook up my brand new fully charged battery. After that it kind of cuts out and bogs and won't let me rev. Also with no battery on it runs good the whole time idling and riding around the yard till the fan comes on then same issue as when I hook my battery up. Tried two different rectifiers-used parts left over-and same issue. I don't think I have 3 bad ones but never know. That's why I'm looking for help. Also changed out cdi and same deal. Any thoughts? Can't figure this out
 
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Old 03-12-2018, 10:31 PM
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I don't think you'll get any better advice than what Old Polaris Tech gives, but I'll be watching to see what happens. Good luck.
 
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Old 03-12-2018, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jumbofrank
I don't think you'll get any better advice than what Old Polaris Tech gives, but I'll be watching to see what happens. Good luck.
i agree. Seems like he really knows his stuff. I've done everything he has said and trust his word. Was seeing what other opinions people had as well. A new rectifier is only $20 so I'm not worried about that just want to learn along the way and try to understand this and know what to check and how to check it.
 
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:04 AM
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If you don't have the battery installed the fan must be using current produced from the regulator and then causing problems possibly with retarding spark from the cdi. Or the engine may be getting hot and bogging down.Regulators are cheap,17 bucks at ebay or amazon.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rectifier-R...!US!-1&vxp=mtr Get one to eliminate a possible bad one that you may have and make sure the battery is good and load tested. Crank it up to see how it runs and make sure it's charging around 14 volts at or above an idle.Older models don't have a higher charging rate as the newer models do. Make sure the coolant is full and the head is bled of any trapped air that could cause problems.I's still pull the black wire from the reverse limiter at the terminal board to eliminate it. You don't need it,you'll then have full power in reverse without having to push the over ride button plus the limiter can fault in reverse, some would die unless you held the over ride button in reverse or they can also fault in forward range and limit rpm. Item #16 on the parts breakdown.
 
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:25 AM
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[QUOTE=old polaris tech;3388641]If you don't have the battery installed the fan must be using current produced from the regulator and then causing problems possibly with retarding spark from the cdi. Or the engine may be getting hot and bogging down.Regulators are cheap,17 bucks at ebay or amazon.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rectifier-R...!US!-1&vxp=mtr Get one to eliminate a possible bad one that you may have and make sure the battery is good and load tested. Crank it up to see how it runs and make sure it's charging around 14 volts at or above an idle.Older models don't have a higher charging rate as the newer models do. Make sure the coolant is full and the head is bled of any trapped air that could cause problems.I's still pull the black wire from the reverse limiter at the terminal board to eliminate it. You don't need it,you'll then have full power in reverse without having to push the over ride button plus the limiter can fault in reverse, some would die unless you held the over ride button in reverse or they can also fault in forward range and limit rpm. Item #16 on the parts breakdown.[/QU

Ok I'm going to order a regulator. On my atv it's #17 on your diagram. What would the other box be?
 
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:38 AM
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The module with the red and yellow wires is the regulator. The other one(about the same size) is the limiter module that you need to pull the black wire so it can be defeated.On different year models these may change position on the machine and the schematic diagram may be off that's shown for your model.
 
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