Question on Toyhaulers
#21
01-21-2005, 03:06 AM
Question on Toyhaulers
Originally posted by: Trasher
and it's all pulled by a F-150[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]
and it's all pulled by a F-150[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]
B&R, Your right[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] you have nothing on him[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
#22
01-21-2005, 03:31 AM
Question on Toyhaulers
Originally posted by: Trasher
I'm having a hard time finding a 7' wide cargo trailer with the wheelwells flush with the side panels, not covered by fenders outside. I have only so much room next to the house and anything else is too wide[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]
I'm having a hard time finding a 7' wide cargo trailer with the wheelwells flush with the side panels, not covered by fenders outside. I have only so much room next to the house and anything else is too wide[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]
7' wide cargo trailer
#23
01-21-2005, 03:41 AM
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Trasher...it's practically all aluminum. I'd be interested in seeing what it weighs though. Just for S&G.
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#24
01-21-2005, 09:13 AM
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Question on Toyhaulers
With all the modifications you made to this rig, did you significantly reduce the load capacity? Seems like with all you added, a move to a pair of 3500# axles to get the GVWR up to 7000# may be prudent for anyone else in the mood.
Also what was the reason for the equalizer hitch?
If you had to do it all over again, would you have bought a longer trailer?
Can you tell the difference with the v-nose versus a flat nose trailer?
Did you lose any valuable storage space or find it harder to deal with the v-nose when designing everything?
What about height? Would you advise anyone who is considering a purchase like this to go with an extra hieght model so they can have more room for the bed with storage below?
Also what was the reason for the equalizer hitch?
If you had to do it all over again, would you have bought a longer trailer?
Can you tell the difference with the v-nose versus a flat nose trailer?
Did you lose any valuable storage space or find it harder to deal with the v-nose when designing everything?
What about height? Would you advise anyone who is considering a purchase like this to go with an extra hieght model so they can have more room for the bed with storage below?
#25
01-21-2005, 12:17 PM
Question on Toyhaulers
Originally posted by: rescuediver
Thrasher, I posted this in the FBK thread[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] But posted it here for anyone else that might be interested in it[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]MD
7' wide cargo trailer
Originally posted by: Trasher
I'm having a hard time finding a 7' wide cargo trailer with the wheelwells flush with the side panels, not covered by fenders outside. I have only so much room next to the house and anything else is too wide[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]
I'm having a hard time finding a 7' wide cargo trailer with the wheelwells flush with the side panels, not covered by fenders outside. I have only so much room next to the house and anything else is too wide[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]
7' wide cargo trailer
Where I want to store this is next to the house and I have a block wall on one side and the house on the other so I can't move either one to get a bigger trailer in there[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]
#27
01-21-2005, 12:31 PM
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#28
01-21-2005, 12:33 PM
#29
01-21-2005, 12:41 PM
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Sure they do... Aluminum trailer company is one. Pace American does too. Just about every manufacturer has a line for ATV/Snowmobiles that includes ones with outboard wheels with fenders, and the style that tucks the wheels up underneath with no intrusion into the storage box. Many can be bought with or without a wedge design, and some also provide a ramp door on the front wedge so you have drive through capability. Do some checking, and you will find that you can also get extra hight added for reasonable fees.
Back to the trailer pictures provided, one thing I liked about it was the sprayed coating (LINEX) on the floor and walls. Makes for easy cleanout after putting your dirty toys in there.
Back to the trailer pictures provided, one thing I liked about it was the sprayed coating (LINEX) on the floor and walls. Makes for easy cleanout after putting your dirty toys in there.
#30
01-21-2005, 03:20 PM
Question on Toyhaulers
Originally posted by: Dragginbutt
With all the modifications you made to this rig, did you significantly reduce the load capacity? Seems like with all you added, a move to a pair of 3500# axles to get the GVWR up to 7000# may be prudent for anyone else in the mood.
Radical-If I had it to do over again, I would go with 3500# axles. This is because of a mounting flange problem on the 2500# units. They have cracked where welded to the axles (twice), due to the steel axles needing to be bolted to the aluminum frame. Rance used the crappiest hardware available to mount them and they became loose. I have gotten close, but never over 5000# gross weight with a typical maximum load, but extra is always good!
Also what was the reason for the equalizer hitch?
Radical-I went with the Hensley anti-sway hitch to eliminate the pucker-factor when pulling the trailer at speed. The V-nose creates more side push (yaw) when large vehicles pass. This creates trailer sway that "sucks" the tow vehicle into the path of the passing vehicle somewhat. It's not a good thing. I don't think a flat nose trailer would effect the truck as much. The Hensley hitch basically eliminated the problem. I can drive one-handed with confidence. The weight distribution part of the hitch is gravy, and helps keep things balanced. BTW...The truck has "p" rated tires which are a major part of the yaw problem imo. I will go with LT tires at replacement time.
If you had to do it all over again, would you have bought a longer trailer?
Radical-No, I love the mobility of this size, and it just suits my needs. I think I maximized what space I have though. I can park it where others can't, like in two parking spaces etc.
Can you tell the difference with the v-nose versus a flat nose trailer?
Radical-Yes. I don't have any scientific data to back me up, but it really cuts the wind compared to flat trailers I have towed. It also looks good. I can't stand those ugly *** round top, flat nose cargo trailers! They remind me of an old bus! The extra storage space is a plus. The only down side is the funky side push (see above).
Did you lose any valuable storage space or find it harder to deal with the v-nose when designing everything?
Radical-No, I found that I gained cargo space over a flat front trailer. It's an extra 3' of "V" space, and is perfect for some of the "clutter" like wiring, electric panels, and cabinets. On THIS trailer, I would definately have them build it with a heavier-duty tongue as believe this one JUST handles the load. It has a visable bow in it that is worse when loaded and tensioned with the hitch. I did a lot of work in this area to help with this. Go with a stronger tongue if you buy this type trailer from Rance! Just remember how much stuff I have in this rig, and that most of it is carried in the front half.
What about height? Would you advise anyone who is considering a purchase like this to go with an extra hieght model so they can have more room for the bed with storage below?
Radical-Yes. This trailer is actually a stretched 7'X12' trailer. When they stretch it to 14', the roof ends up 6" higher (6'-6"). This is perfect for me at 6'. The bed headroom vs under storage height is a trade-off, but this is why I designed the bed to fold up out of the way. It can addapt. In most cases with my toys, The bed is still usable on the road. I built the bed as thin as possible 1-1/2" aluminum frame under aluminum ATP. The foam is a total of 5". The only bed function affected is doggy-style! The old lady uses the ceiling as a foot brace and loves it! The bed is also in the warmer part of the trailer which is nice in cold weather. The A/C blows right at you also if needed. The roof vent and side window are also right there for good ventilation.
With all the modifications you made to this rig, did you significantly reduce the load capacity? Seems like with all you added, a move to a pair of 3500# axles to get the GVWR up to 7000# may be prudent for anyone else in the mood.
Radical-If I had it to do over again, I would go with 3500# axles. This is because of a mounting flange problem on the 2500# units. They have cracked where welded to the axles (twice), due to the steel axles needing to be bolted to the aluminum frame. Rance used the crappiest hardware available to mount them and they became loose. I have gotten close, but never over 5000# gross weight with a typical maximum load, but extra is always good!
Also what was the reason for the equalizer hitch?
Radical-I went with the Hensley anti-sway hitch to eliminate the pucker-factor when pulling the trailer at speed. The V-nose creates more side push (yaw) when large vehicles pass. This creates trailer sway that "sucks" the tow vehicle into the path of the passing vehicle somewhat. It's not a good thing. I don't think a flat nose trailer would effect the truck as much. The Hensley hitch basically eliminated the problem. I can drive one-handed with confidence. The weight distribution part of the hitch is gravy, and helps keep things balanced. BTW...The truck has "p" rated tires which are a major part of the yaw problem imo. I will go with LT tires at replacement time.
If you had to do it all over again, would you have bought a longer trailer?
Radical-No, I love the mobility of this size, and it just suits my needs. I think I maximized what space I have though. I can park it where others can't, like in two parking spaces etc.
Can you tell the difference with the v-nose versus a flat nose trailer?
Radical-Yes. I don't have any scientific data to back me up, but it really cuts the wind compared to flat trailers I have towed. It also looks good. I can't stand those ugly *** round top, flat nose cargo trailers! They remind me of an old bus! The extra storage space is a plus. The only down side is the funky side push (see above).
Did you lose any valuable storage space or find it harder to deal with the v-nose when designing everything?
Radical-No, I found that I gained cargo space over a flat front trailer. It's an extra 3' of "V" space, and is perfect for some of the "clutter" like wiring, electric panels, and cabinets. On THIS trailer, I would definately have them build it with a heavier-duty tongue as believe this one JUST handles the load. It has a visable bow in it that is worse when loaded and tensioned with the hitch. I did a lot of work in this area to help with this. Go with a stronger tongue if you buy this type trailer from Rance! Just remember how much stuff I have in this rig, and that most of it is carried in the front half.
What about height? Would you advise anyone who is considering a purchase like this to go with an extra hieght model so they can have more room for the bed with storage below?
Radical-Yes. This trailer is actually a stretched 7'X12' trailer. When they stretch it to 14', the roof ends up 6" higher (6'-6"). This is perfect for me at 6'. The bed headroom vs under storage height is a trade-off, but this is why I designed the bed to fold up out of the way. It can addapt. In most cases with my toys, The bed is still usable on the road. I built the bed as thin as possible 1-1/2" aluminum frame under aluminum ATP. The foam is a total of 5". The only bed function affected is doggy-style! The old lady uses the ceiling as a foot brace and loves it! The bed is also in the warmer part of the trailer which is nice in cold weather. The A/C blows right at you also if needed. The roof vent and side window are also right there for good ventilation.