Putting a flatbed on an old Chevy Truck
#1
Putting a flatbed on an old Chevy Truck
I am contemplating the purchase of an '83 or so Chevy pickup truck. It is 4x4, manual transmission with the 350.
I would like to scrap the bed that is on it and put a flat bed on it. I want to do this on the cheap, so what I am looking for is links to places that sell flat beds cheap, or info on how to do it myself.
The DIY idea I had would be to use 2x3 rectangular steel tubbing for the main frame and 2x treated lumber for the bed. I will have to do some measuring on the frame, but I would like to set it up to have a 7'x9' frame so that I can get to utility quads on there.
Any thoughts, advice, cautions would be appreciated. I know I could get a trailer, but I think this might actually be more useful for me. Plus I need a project...
Thanks in advance!
I would like to scrap the bed that is on it and put a flat bed on it. I want to do this on the cheap, so what I am looking for is links to places that sell flat beds cheap, or info on how to do it myself.
The DIY idea I had would be to use 2x3 rectangular steel tubbing for the main frame and 2x treated lumber for the bed. I will have to do some measuring on the frame, but I would like to set it up to have a 7'x9' frame so that I can get to utility quads on there.
Any thoughts, advice, cautions would be appreciated. I know I could get a trailer, but I think this might actually be more useful for me. Plus I need a project...
Thanks in advance!
#4
Yeah, I was thinking I would set the whole deck above the frame bump. Since I want to make it fairly wide, I need to make sure that full deflection of the rear suspension would not cause the tires to hit the frame or decking.
When you say the thick walled stuff, what thickness or schedule do you recommend?
Thanks guys!!
When you say the thick walled stuff, what thickness or schedule do you recommend?
Thanks guys!!
#6
In my thinking 1/8" thickness would be about right. I'm no welder but I've seen flat beds with 1/8" with a 10' wide bed. My thought is to find steel tall enough to make it over the bump. Make a box with a rim all the way around with pieces going across almost like deck framing on a house. If you put one in front of the bump and one behind it you might find you have enough clearance for articulation. If not go taller.
#7
I think you go from .120 (just under 1/8) to .188 and then to .250.
Which to choose I suppose would depend on how many spars you are going to put under there, and how much of a load you expect the deck to handle.
Going .188 would likley give you a nice bump in strength for not too much extra money or weight.
Which to choose I suppose would depend on how many spars you are going to put under there, and how much of a load you expect the deck to handle.
Going .188 would likley give you a nice bump in strength for not too much extra money or weight.
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