07 Grizzly
#12
04-19-2007 | 01:37 PM
Pro Rider
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 746
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07 Grizzly
If you are serious about the Grizzly, you need to take a test ride and decide. Better yet if you can try one in a real world condition, like on a rocky trail, then you will really see what this thing is all about. If you get to spend a day on one you may have a hard time going back to anything else!
"True" 4WD? IMO for an off road machine there is nothing better than manual controls where you decide when to engage 4WD and when to disengage it (that is MY preference anyway). This is what the Grizzly has. Push a button and it electronically engages (very quickly, while moving or not moving) limited slip 4WD. It will stay in that mode forever (including going down hill) until you push the button again to disenage it. If you want more than that push another button (while stopped) and that engages the front locker. That is real "true" 4WD. Equal power to all 4 wheels, all the time. Again, it stays engaged, all the time no matter what the conditions are until you push the button again to disenage it.
The Grizzly also gives you independent front and rear brake controls (which makes a difference when you are in 2WD mode)...
"True" 4WD? IMO for an off road machine there is nothing better than manual controls where you decide when to engage 4WD and when to disengage it (that is MY preference anyway). This is what the Grizzly has. Push a button and it electronically engages (very quickly, while moving or not moving) limited slip 4WD. It will stay in that mode forever (including going down hill) until you push the button again to disenage it. If you want more than that push another button (while stopped) and that engages the front locker. That is real "true" 4WD. Equal power to all 4 wheels, all the time. Again, it stays engaged, all the time no matter what the conditions are until you push the button again to disenage it.
The Grizzly also gives you independent front and rear brake controls (which makes a difference when you are in 2WD mode)...
#13
04-19-2007 | 03:57 PM
Pro Rider
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 1
From: Baytown Texas
07 Grizzly
Hey 2TV,
I noticed you have or had a BF? Did you sell it and what do you think about it compaired to your new griz700? I know the bf will have more power and torque, but I bet the new griz700 riders better and steers better. BTW, I like the camo version of the new griz700. If they made it in a 2-up atv, I would have seriously considered it.
As far as the "true 4wd," I have a bf750 and now a sportsman 800efi X2 DLX and both systems are very good. The bf is nice with it's progressive locker. However when engauging the front tires in initial 4wd, the front tires must be slightly rolling to engauge so I select 4wd about 5 feet ahead of a deep mud hole. But, the progressive locker is awesome b/c it is there when you need it and when you don't. The polaris system is great b/c you never have to do anything other than put it in 4wd and the steering is extremely easy.
I personally think the main issue is to make sure a 4wd has a locker or AWD like the polaris for medium to heavy mud riding. I don't like the 3 wheel drive 4wd's that don't have a locker b/c I have seen then stuck so many times. As far as the griz locker, it is a very good system and a proven system.
I noticed you have or had a BF? Did you sell it and what do you think about it compaired to your new griz700? I know the bf will have more power and torque, but I bet the new griz700 riders better and steers better. BTW, I like the camo version of the new griz700. If they made it in a 2-up atv, I would have seriously considered it.
As far as the "true 4wd," I have a bf750 and now a sportsman 800efi X2 DLX and both systems are very good. The bf is nice with it's progressive locker. However when engauging the front tires in initial 4wd, the front tires must be slightly rolling to engauge so I select 4wd about 5 feet ahead of a deep mud hole. But, the progressive locker is awesome b/c it is there when you need it and when you don't. The polaris system is great b/c you never have to do anything other than put it in 4wd and the steering is extremely easy.
I personally think the main issue is to make sure a 4wd has a locker or AWD like the polaris for medium to heavy mud riding. I don't like the 3 wheel drive 4wd's that don't have a locker b/c I have seen then stuck so many times. As far as the griz locker, it is a very good system and a proven system.
#14
04-19-2007 | 04:40 PM
Pro Rider
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 746
Likes: 0
07 Grizzly
700vtwinman, you have a good memory! Although I still have pics of my old Brute here and there too.
Yes, I used to have an '05 Brute Force 750 (and an '04 700 VForce before that). I sold the Brute a few months after getting my new Grizzly. I had to wait a little before selling it to be sure I could live without it though. My preference was to sell it since having the expense of 2 very capable big bore 4x4's was a little costly.
I had a Dynatek ignition which gave the Brute a little added kick in the pants plus I had Elka suspension all the way around and that made a major difference in the handling. With the Brute equipped like that plus with the same 26" Dirt Devil tires mounted on ITP Type 7 wheels (a little more offset than stock) that I'm running on my new Grizzly the Brute would out-handle the 700 Grizzly on the 1.6 mile tight and twisty field course that I have at my farm. The Elka shocks were mostly responsible for that since they have better dampening than the stockers, plus it lowers the quad a couple of inches (taking away ground clearance though).
Sure, the Brute has more power than the 700 Grizzly. Put either quad in low range and punch the throttle and the front end is coming up. The Brute does this almost violently and required quick throttle management or one was going to get into trouble, where the Grizzly sort of eased off of the ground and you had a little more time to react to throttle management.
When it comes to handling in the woods though, steering on the Brute is way stiff when compared to the Grizzly, especially when it was in 4WD. You had to muscle it around but at the same time that stiffness prevented the bars from being easily ripped from your hands if you hit something wrong (like what would happen with a King Quad or my old Grizzly for instance). However the EPS on the new Grizzly makes the steering consistently feather light no matter if you are on a grassy field or a rocky trail. There is even really no felt difference between when the machine is in 2WD or limited slip 4WD. Plus as a side benefit the EPS also works sort of like a steering dampener in that it will help to reduce the amount of shock that is transmitted to the handlebars if you were to hit something wrong.
About the 4WD features, I really liked the progressive locker lever on the Brute when it came to approaching something and you wanted the security of locking up the front end without stopping. There is little effort required in holding the lever in for extended periods of time either. However for situations where you wanted the front end locked for an extended period of time the push button locker on the Grizzly was more convenient, except you have to stop to engage it (which is more of a hassle if you just want to use it for short hops over something).
When it comes to the limited slip 4WD engagement, the Grizzly is better. On the Kawasaki you had to plan ahead as to when you needed 4WD and engage it before you needed it since you needed to be driving forward for it to hook up. On the Grizzly you can be moving, stopped, in forward hi, forward low or reverse and all you have to do is hit the button and you are engaged. This comes in handy if you suddenly find yourself stuck such as if you were going downhill through a field or the woods and you suddenly for whatever reason found that you had to stop, back up, and change your direction. Well with the Grizzly all you do is push the 4WD button, back up and go. With the Brute you might be stuck unless you can go forward some more first so the 4WD can engage.
Let's face it, the Brute sure did "sound" better than the Grizzly, that v-twin rumble was music to the ears compared to the single cylinder Grizzly engine. However I feel the (new) Grizzly is a more refined, better overall package.
About the automatic AWD verses manually controlled 4WD, one example is a rock crawling situation where you may be creeping along without tire spin. It's nice to start out fully locked and know that you will have full power to all of the wheels without having to wait for a wheelspin condition for the AWD to hook up. Another case where it's nice to have manual control is when descending a loose, technical hill where being in 4WD will give you better control (more consistent engine braking or brake control). Now a situation where AWD shines is in the mud or other loose conditions (anything but downhill). You can be blasting along a trail and if you hit a muddy section where wheel spin would be a normal occurrence, the automatic AWD will take care of the situation by automatically applying power to the wheels that need it.
Yes, I used to have an '05 Brute Force 750 (and an '04 700 VForce before that). I sold the Brute a few months after getting my new Grizzly. I had to wait a little before selling it to be sure I could live without it though. My preference was to sell it since having the expense of 2 very capable big bore 4x4's was a little costly.
I had a Dynatek ignition which gave the Brute a little added kick in the pants plus I had Elka suspension all the way around and that made a major difference in the handling. With the Brute equipped like that plus with the same 26" Dirt Devil tires mounted on ITP Type 7 wheels (a little more offset than stock) that I'm running on my new Grizzly the Brute would out-handle the 700 Grizzly on the 1.6 mile tight and twisty field course that I have at my farm. The Elka shocks were mostly responsible for that since they have better dampening than the stockers, plus it lowers the quad a couple of inches (taking away ground clearance though).
Sure, the Brute has more power than the 700 Grizzly. Put either quad in low range and punch the throttle and the front end is coming up. The Brute does this almost violently and required quick throttle management or one was going to get into trouble, where the Grizzly sort of eased off of the ground and you had a little more time to react to throttle management.
When it comes to handling in the woods though, steering on the Brute is way stiff when compared to the Grizzly, especially when it was in 4WD. You had to muscle it around but at the same time that stiffness prevented the bars from being easily ripped from your hands if you hit something wrong (like what would happen with a King Quad or my old Grizzly for instance). However the EPS on the new Grizzly makes the steering consistently feather light no matter if you are on a grassy field or a rocky trail. There is even really no felt difference between when the machine is in 2WD or limited slip 4WD. Plus as a side benefit the EPS also works sort of like a steering dampener in that it will help to reduce the amount of shock that is transmitted to the handlebars if you were to hit something wrong.
About the 4WD features, I really liked the progressive locker lever on the Brute when it came to approaching something and you wanted the security of locking up the front end without stopping. There is little effort required in holding the lever in for extended periods of time either. However for situations where you wanted the front end locked for an extended period of time the push button locker on the Grizzly was more convenient, except you have to stop to engage it (which is more of a hassle if you just want to use it for short hops over something).
When it comes to the limited slip 4WD engagement, the Grizzly is better. On the Kawasaki you had to plan ahead as to when you needed 4WD and engage it before you needed it since you needed to be driving forward for it to hook up. On the Grizzly you can be moving, stopped, in forward hi, forward low or reverse and all you have to do is hit the button and you are engaged. This comes in handy if you suddenly find yourself stuck such as if you were going downhill through a field or the woods and you suddenly for whatever reason found that you had to stop, back up, and change your direction. Well with the Grizzly all you do is push the 4WD button, back up and go. With the Brute you might be stuck unless you can go forward some more first so the 4WD can engage.
Let's face it, the Brute sure did "sound" better than the Grizzly, that v-twin rumble was music to the ears compared to the single cylinder Grizzly engine. However I feel the (new) Grizzly is a more refined, better overall package.
About the automatic AWD verses manually controlled 4WD, one example is a rock crawling situation where you may be creeping along without tire spin. It's nice to start out fully locked and know that you will have full power to all of the wheels without having to wait for a wheelspin condition for the AWD to hook up. Another case where it's nice to have manual control is when descending a loose, technical hill where being in 4WD will give you better control (more consistent engine braking or brake control). Now a situation where AWD shines is in the mud or other loose conditions (anything but downhill). You can be blasting along a trail and if you hit a muddy section where wheel spin would be a normal occurrence, the automatic AWD will take care of the situation by automatically applying power to the wheels that need it.
#15
04-20-2007 | 01:38 AM
Pro Rider
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 1
From: Baytown Texas
07 Grizzly
Originally posted by: 2TV
700vtwinman, you have a good memory! Although I still have pics of my old Brute here and there too.
Yes, I used to have an '05 Brute Force 750 (and an '04 700 VForce before that). I sold the Brute a few months after getting my new Grizzly. I had to wait a little before selling it to be sure I could live without it though. My preference was to sell it since having the expense of 2 very capable big bore 4x4's was a little costly.
I had a Dynatek ignition which gave the Brute a little added kick in the pants plus I had Elka suspension all the way around and that made a major difference in the handling. With the Brute equipped like that plus with the same 26" Dirt Devil tires mounted on ITP Type 7 wheels (a little more offset than stock) that I'm running on my new Grizzly the Brute would out-handle the 700 Grizzly on the 1.6 mile tight and twisty field course that I have at my farm. The Elka shocks were mostly responsible for that since they have better dampening than the stockers, plus it lowers the quad a couple of inches (taking away ground clearance though).
Sure, the Brute has more power than the 700 Grizzly. Put either quad in low range and punch the throttle and the front end is coming up. The Brute does this almost violently and required quick throttle management or one was going to get into trouble, where the Grizzly sort of eased off of the ground and you had a little more time to react to throttle management.
When it comes to handling in the woods though, steering on the Brute is way stiff when compared to the Grizzly, especially when it was in 4WD. You had to muscle it around but at the same time that stiffness prevented the bars from being easily ripped from your hands if you hit something wrong (like what would happen with a King Quad or my old Grizzly for instance). However the EPS on the new Grizzly makes the steering consistently feather light no matter if you are on a grassy field or a rocky trail. There is even really no felt difference between when the machine is in 2WD or limited slip 4WD. Plus as a side benefit the EPS also works sort of like a steering dampener in that it will help to reduce the amount of shock that is transmitted to the handlebars if you were to hit something wrong.
About the 4WD features, I really liked the progressive locker lever on the Brute when it came to approaching something and you wanted the security of locking up the front end without stopping. There is little effort required in holding the lever in for extended periods of time either. However for situations where you wanted the front end locked for an extended period of time the push button locker on the Grizzly was more convenient, except you have to stop to engage it (which is more of a hassle if you just want to use it for short hops over something).
When it comes to the limited slip 4WD engagement, the Grizzly is better. On the Kawasaki you had to plan ahead as to when you needed 4WD and engage it before you needed it since you needed to be driving forward for it to hook up. On the Grizzly you can be moving, stopped, in forward hi, forward low or reverse and all you have to do is hit the button and you are engaged. This comes in handy if you suddenly find yourself stuck such as if you were going downhill through a field or the woods and you suddenly for whatever reason found that you had to stop, back up, and change your direction. Well with the Grizzly all you do is push the 4WD button, back up and go. With the Brute you might be stuck unless you can go forward some more first so the 4WD can engage.
Let's face it, the Brute sure did "sound" better than the Grizzly, that v-twin rumble was music to the ears compared to the single cylinder Grizzly engine. However I feel the (new) Grizzly is a more refined, better overall package.
About the automatic AWD verses manually controlled 4WD, one example is a rock crawling situation where you may be creeping along without tire spin. It's nice to start out fully locked and know that you will have full power to all of the wheels without having to wait for a wheelspin condition for the AWD to hook up. Another case where it's nice to have manual control is when descending a loose, technical hill where being in 4WD will give you better control (more consistent engine braking or brake control). Now a situation where AWD shines is in the mud or other loose conditions (anything but downhill). You can be blasting along a trail and if you hit a muddy section where wheel spin would be a normal occurrence, the automatic AWD will take care of the situation by automatically applying power to the wheels that need it.
700vtwinman, you have a good memory! Although I still have pics of my old Brute here and there too.
Yes, I used to have an '05 Brute Force 750 (and an '04 700 VForce before that). I sold the Brute a few months after getting my new Grizzly. I had to wait a little before selling it to be sure I could live without it though. My preference was to sell it since having the expense of 2 very capable big bore 4x4's was a little costly.
I had a Dynatek ignition which gave the Brute a little added kick in the pants plus I had Elka suspension all the way around and that made a major difference in the handling. With the Brute equipped like that plus with the same 26" Dirt Devil tires mounted on ITP Type 7 wheels (a little more offset than stock) that I'm running on my new Grizzly the Brute would out-handle the 700 Grizzly on the 1.6 mile tight and twisty field course that I have at my farm. The Elka shocks were mostly responsible for that since they have better dampening than the stockers, plus it lowers the quad a couple of inches (taking away ground clearance though).
Sure, the Brute has more power than the 700 Grizzly. Put either quad in low range and punch the throttle and the front end is coming up. The Brute does this almost violently and required quick throttle management or one was going to get into trouble, where the Grizzly sort of eased off of the ground and you had a little more time to react to throttle management.
When it comes to handling in the woods though, steering on the Brute is way stiff when compared to the Grizzly, especially when it was in 4WD. You had to muscle it around but at the same time that stiffness prevented the bars from being easily ripped from your hands if you hit something wrong (like what would happen with a King Quad or my old Grizzly for instance). However the EPS on the new Grizzly makes the steering consistently feather light no matter if you are on a grassy field or a rocky trail. There is even really no felt difference between when the machine is in 2WD or limited slip 4WD. Plus as a side benefit the EPS also works sort of like a steering dampener in that it will help to reduce the amount of shock that is transmitted to the handlebars if you were to hit something wrong.
About the 4WD features, I really liked the progressive locker lever on the Brute when it came to approaching something and you wanted the security of locking up the front end without stopping. There is little effort required in holding the lever in for extended periods of time either. However for situations where you wanted the front end locked for an extended period of time the push button locker on the Grizzly was more convenient, except you have to stop to engage it (which is more of a hassle if you just want to use it for short hops over something).
When it comes to the limited slip 4WD engagement, the Grizzly is better. On the Kawasaki you had to plan ahead as to when you needed 4WD and engage it before you needed it since you needed to be driving forward for it to hook up. On the Grizzly you can be moving, stopped, in forward hi, forward low or reverse and all you have to do is hit the button and you are engaged. This comes in handy if you suddenly find yourself stuck such as if you were going downhill through a field or the woods and you suddenly for whatever reason found that you had to stop, back up, and change your direction. Well with the Grizzly all you do is push the 4WD button, back up and go. With the Brute you might be stuck unless you can go forward some more first so the 4WD can engage.
Let's face it, the Brute sure did "sound" better than the Grizzly, that v-twin rumble was music to the ears compared to the single cylinder Grizzly engine. However I feel the (new) Grizzly is a more refined, better overall package.
About the automatic AWD verses manually controlled 4WD, one example is a rock crawling situation where you may be creeping along without tire spin. It's nice to start out fully locked and know that you will have full power to all of the wheels without having to wait for a wheelspin condition for the AWD to hook up. Another case where it's nice to have manual control is when descending a loose, technical hill where being in 4WD will give you better control (more consistent engine braking or brake control). Now a situation where AWD shines is in the mud or other loose conditions (anything but downhill). You can be blasting along a trail and if you hit a muddy section where wheel spin would be a normal occurrence, the automatic AWD will take care of the situation by automatically applying power to the wheels that need it.
#16
04-21-2007 | 08:38 AM
Range Rover
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
07 Grizzly
Originally posted by: CaptainQuint
I would almost bet the power steering tech Honda uses is nearly identical and comes from the same vendor as the one Yamaha uses.
As I understand it isn't an innovation from Yamaha or Honda but a device acquired from a vendor an licensed for use and as such any manufacturer could get the rights to it and adapt it to their own machines. That's what I was told. Someone with better knowledge of the actual unit and its manufacturer please correct me if I'm mistaken.
I would almost bet the power steering tech Honda uses is nearly identical and comes from the same vendor as the one Yamaha uses.
As I understand it isn't an innovation from Yamaha or Honda but a device acquired from a vendor an licensed for use and as such any manufacturer could get the rights to it and adapt it to their own machines. That's what I was told. Someone with better knowledge of the actual unit and its manufacturer please correct me if I'm mistaken.
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