Hi! I bought a Terrapro this spring and have been using it to cut 5 acres of pretty rough field and the yard around the house. Today, I was using it and looked behind me and noticed the bushog was way off to one side. I stopped and looked and somehow, one of the pins had come out of the 2 point hitch. I believe everything is ok, but one side of the 2 point hitch on the bushog that attaches to the the atv may need to be taken off and straightened out a little so that the other side can be lined back up and a new pin put in.

My problem is that I can not get the pto shaft cover to slide back so that I can unhook the pto shaft on the bushog from the pto unit on the atv. There are 2 white buttons on the shaft that I thought would push in and let me slide the shaft cover back so that I can get to the joint and take it off. However, these white tabs will not push in at all. I have looked all over the place and can see no other way to release the shaft cover to slide it back. Has anyone had experience with taking these attachments on and off of a Terrapro and can provide any guidance? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Michael

 

The drive shaft cover should not need to be removed from the drive shaft to disconnect it from the PTO.

Simply reach in front of the shield and push the PTO collar forward and pull the drive shaft out as a whole. (It helps if it was spray lubed before hook-up)

Failing that, the easy way is to:

Crank up the mower deck, put a chunk of 4x4 under the front of the mower deck, and lower the deck down on the wood;

Disconnect the two-point attach pins, and with the PTO in the OFF position, drive forward. The front and rear of the PTO will separate;

Now you should have the room required by a 270# guy like me to reach up and push the PTO collar forward. (NOTE: the two PTO shafts are mated to only go together one way, so you can't screw that up,says Yamaha)

The two white items are called "bearings", and they should get a little oil now and then. They keep the drive shaft cover centered, and locked in a groove so they don't slide off. They are standard on most older PTO drive shafts, depending on size, two, three or four are used. The are removed prying one end up with a small flat blade screwdriver, and pliers to slide them out over the shaft (DO NOT pull them away from the cover, they slide out along the cover, they are nylon, and can break if you get heavy handed)

Flybrian1950

 

IS the PTO shaft 2 seperate peices? The one I bought recently has a shaft that seems to have a front and back half but does not slide in and out like it is 2 seperate parts. Could be some rust inside the shaft? Any info on this would be appreciated.

 

Yes, the drive shafts for the FM-48 and RC-42 mowers, and likely the RT-38 tiller are two part, with the male 1/2 on the mower side (heavier guage tri-lobed tube) and the female 1/2 on the ATV/PTO side (lighter guage tri-lobed) (this side also has the male L&G 15 spline PTO connector).

The two halves need to be separated at leat annually , cleaned and re-greased so they move freely in and out as the mower trails on the two-point mount and moved up and down.

A "frozen" drive shaft that does not move in and out freely will put undue forces on the PTO and likely ruin the collar and or bearings/seals. These mowers are built pretty tough, but not so much for the PTO.

The drive shafts i just had repaired were all due to poor maintenance. They donot have a grease zerk like most PTO shafts to grease the internal part of the shafting. But it is so simple to pull them apart and put on some grease, and put them back together, they only go together one way with the tri-lobed shafting, the correct way. That is likely why it was chosen, even though it was metric, and the yokes and other components were standard american components.

If you use some rust penetrant and some heat you should be able to free-up the outer shaft and get them apart. Then clean the crude off the inner shaft and grease it. The outer shaft can be submerged in some diesel over night to loosen the crude in it and then cleaned up with a long screw drive enough to get them ready to go back together.

Hope this helps, Brian

 

Well I soaked mine with WD40 for a few days and never got the shaft to budge even with "momentous persuasion" with a small sledgehammer . Finally stumbled onto a solution that beats WD40 or PB Blaster and anything else you think is great hands down.

Mix 1/3 each: brake fluid marvel mystery oil, trans fluid. Pour or spray into gaps along the shaft while hanging the shaft vertically with smaller diameter part of the shaft pointing up, and keep the bottom part a foot or so off the ground. Soak for a while making sure your solution runs inside the larger part of the shaft.

Gently and firmly tap around the shaft as close to the center of the 2 pieces as you can. Continue tapping all around the shaft. (if needed, Feed some more solution in the gap if possbile and tap some more a while later.

Next-
Listen for the sound of the shaft dropping to the ground anywhere from a few minutes to hours. SERIOUSLY THIS WORKS! SO DON'T HANG THE SHAFT VERY HIGH UP OR YOU MIGHT DAMAGE IT OR OTHER SURROUNDING ITEMS.

For badly rusted shafts, this can be repeated daily or a few times a day. Gravity will work and pull the 2 halves apart eventually once the solution breaks through the rust. The tapping with a hammer creates small vibrations that accelerates the process with quicker pentration and breaks free any solid rust areas.

Mine worked in less than a minute (yes, less than a minute after hitting it with the majic solution!) but have heard some might take longer.

Emery cloth the shafts and liberally grease them before re-assembly.

 

Hey all, I am wondering if you have any pictures of the deck height adjustment? I have a used RC42 with my Terrapro and it seems to be missing the round tubular bushing that fits on the rear end of the long rod running from the front to back of the mower. I think this is the front height adjustment rod. the rear adjuster seems to work fine after just a bit of lubrication and greasing the wheels.
I am trying to find a bushing to fit that rod so I can set the front height so I can get the mower working out on the bar ditch around the pasture.

Any pictures of the way it is supposed to be would be helpful. any idea where to get the bushing? took in the one off the rear height adjustment for example and Looked at a kubota dealer with woods mowers and they thought I was nuts. Kept saying go to yamaha...

 

The rod from the front (goes through the shroud assembly) should attach in the front to a short tab on the upper side of the hitch bar assembly (that mounts the mower to the ATV). The rear of the bar terminates in the round sleeve on the rear wheel assembly bracket. The only height adjustment is the rear jack-screw in the center. It raises and lowers the rear wheels and the rod to the front hitch bar assembly move the front up and down at the same time.

I'll try and get a photo.

If you haven't tried, get a part number and contact Woods, for any missing parts. The woods part number is embedded in the Yamaha part number. You should be able to get a part it they used it on other mowers.

 

a picture would help since I have all but the sleeve at the rear. I cna say without the rod hooked up the front of the mower is too low so it may not adjust height but seems like it is required to give some clearance on the front of the mower. thanks for our help

 

That bushing Rounds Sleeve or whatever it is, needed for the note above is not available. Looked at hitch pins ram pins and finally wnet to a welding shop. A 4 inch long 1.25" diameter solid steel piece, drilled with a 3/4" hole cost 50 bucks. (really only needed 3" long but I wanted to be sure it stayed in place... anyway that is Like gold! but it works. I learned just cause they tell you it will be around 27 bucks you should expect to nearly double the estimate. I am sure they are working on government contracts with estimates like that.