hey ive seen that before ...[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

In that case it'll be 10 cents for you.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

ROTFLMAO!!!!! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

In my service manual they say to measure the float height AND the fuel level. No one here mentioned using a ruler to measure the float height, Is this redundant? Or is just easier to use the clear tubing and measure the fuel level, rather than the float? If you have to take it apart anyway to bend the float tang, then you can do the other measurement too. So are most people running the fuel level Lower than the specs? (3-4 mm below the float chamber mating surface)

 

I don't think it's a good idea to run it below the mating surface. Using the ruler to measure the float height is crap that's why I didn't mention it.

 

Crap? Hmm, thats the recommended Yamaha procedure. I haven't done it yet either way, just trying to get the facts from those who have.

 

Setting the floats is an art, not an exact science. The manual says to put the fuel level BELOW the mating surface but it seems that every single Raptor comes from the factory with them 2-3mm above the mating surface. I think the manual might be wrong as far as checking with the clear tube, even with or slightly above the mating surface seems to work for most people. You could measure the float height and then check with the clear tube to get an idea of how much a mm difference as measured at the float makes with the clear tube. If you measure each time you check with the clear tube, you'll know exactly where to reset them if/when the float fairy visits you and changes them while you sleep:-)

 

I finally got to work with my float levels tonight, Talk about a tedious process !! Mine were way off, 7-8 mm above the mating surface. I had to bend the tangs A LOT to get the fuel level even with the mating surface. I went from having it locked up and the needle solid in the seat, to just barely a trickle of fuel, (Hard to tell exactly how much you've bent it, and when you've gone too far) I don't think it would even be possible to get the level below the mating surface like the manual calls for. So here is my new concern, In order to get the needle to close early (and lower the fuel level) the tang on the float is bent so much, the needle hardly opens at all, which makes me wonder if I will have enough fuel flow INTO the bowls now, at WOT.

 

Try setting it a couple of mm above the surface and try it.
Put a little Z bend in the tab to keep it a little more square on the needle.
You could file a little bit of the stop off to alow the float to drop the needle down more.

 

I tried to do that somewhat, after I saw the odd angle, but it was difficult, and I didn't want to break something and have nothing, so I will ride it like it is today, and see what happens, I think you might be onto something to file the stop for the float, so it can open the needle further, but still close it at the same position.