Polishing rough cylinder
#1
Polishing rough cylinder
Hey all,
For those who have polished their motors or own shops, how do you polish the cylinders down smooth? I have a LT500, and I'm working on the jug, but there has to be a better way than hand sanding. Does anyone use a small 2-3" sandpaper disk attached to a grinder, or? My friend got his Banshee motor polished up real nice, and those guys didn't take a week hand sanding it. Otherwise it will take forever to get the casted finish sanded down smooth.
Thanks!
For those who have polished their motors or own shops, how do you polish the cylinders down smooth? I have a LT500, and I'm working on the jug, but there has to be a better way than hand sanding. Does anyone use a small 2-3" sandpaper disk attached to a grinder, or? My friend got his Banshee motor polished up real nice, and those guys didn't take a week hand sanding it. Otherwise it will take forever to get the casted finish sanded down smooth.
Thanks!
#3
Polishing rough cylinder
In an auto parts store you can usually find a "Head porting kit." This will consist of a couple of stone grinder parts and some wound sandpaper rolls that screw onto a shaft. These things will fit your drill. The sandpaper rolls are in various shapes and sizes.
These things don't work too bad on auto cylinder ports because they are large and you can reach in there. 2 stroke cylinders grant precious little access, but you can use this kit to tackle the bottom end of the transfer ports, and reach in on some of the exhaust port. Look at Macdizzy.com at how to blend the bottom end on these ports. Just taking out casting flash and smoothing things out, while not changing your port timing or width in the cylinder, will be a help. I did this on my LT250 and one of my Blasters and believe it to be a help.
You can use a variable speed drill and go slow enough to have good control. The sand rolls on a high speed grinder make things go pretty quick. Just move slow, watch what you're doing, and you'll find it's kind of fun, and when you put a whoopin' on someone up a sand dune you can brag about your black magic engine building skills.
These things don't work too bad on auto cylinder ports because they are large and you can reach in there. 2 stroke cylinders grant precious little access, but you can use this kit to tackle the bottom end of the transfer ports, and reach in on some of the exhaust port. Look at Macdizzy.com at how to blend the bottom end on these ports. Just taking out casting flash and smoothing things out, while not changing your port timing or width in the cylinder, will be a help. I did this on my LT250 and one of my Blasters and believe it to be a help.
You can use a variable speed drill and go slow enough to have good control. The sand rolls on a high speed grinder make things go pretty quick. Just move slow, watch what you're doing, and you'll find it's kind of fun, and when you put a whoopin' on someone up a sand dune you can brag about your black magic engine building skills.
#5
#6
Polishing rough cylinder
Oh, okay, I'm stupid. Get that cylinder head porting kit, use the hard sandrolls on a 20,000 rpm grinder and smooth that baby off in nothing flat. Be sure to hold the roll against the surface when you turn the grinder on if using a hi speed one or else it'll bend the shaft over from the huge centrifugal force at that speed.
#7
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#8
Polishing rough cylinder
Yep, I have a Dremel and have used 1/2" x 1/2" 120 grit sanding drums, but they are too rough. They smooth it down pretty good be leave some pretty big scratches that are a pain to take out. Does anyone know where I can get some 1/2" x 1/2" drums that are 320, 400, or 600 grit? Also, how about getting into those tight spots where the 1/2" sander won't go? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
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