I'am having flashbacks of the nightmare I went through to get my stock carbs modded to run race gas at the correct float bowl level while allowing the fuel to flow and not starve for fuel and all I needed was my trusty dremel tool.

 

If I remember correctly, you were mixing race gas and pump gas? At 10.75 to 1, you didn't have to run the stuff that's thin as lacquer thinner:-)

Anyhow, there are more limitations in the stock carbs than the float and needle valve. I went through a lot of frustration until I bought FCRs but if Bob Craycraft had his package finished, I would have an extra $600 in my pocket. If you run a built 686 and stock carbs, call Craycraft.

 

Yea, I finally ended up jetting to run straight 93 it was very touchy with the race fuel and weather changes anytime it rained I bogged out and had to jet two to three sizes smaller and then jet back up when it was dry and hot and 93 actually gave me a stronger top end, but lost some of the snapiness and the nice smell.

 

What is "Adjusting the Float Level" and, how is it done??

 

Do a search and type in "float"

 

Many of us have described the process in great detail so you should be able to find the previous posts. The manual also talks about it but leaves out some details if you're new to the process.
The float level is the amount of fuel that resides in the bottom of the carbs(float bowl) that is controlled by the floats/needle valve. If the levels are too far off they can affect jetting which is a good place to start if you are having jetting trouble. If smell gas a lot & actually see gas dripping from the drain & the screw is tight, then the needle valve took a dumper or the floats themselves are damaged. I've had both happen.

 

I have heard of guys running 1/2 a float in each carb to have more fuel in the bowls. I have never done it don't need to. I will say with Bob's carb mods you could return the carbs to ....ah never mind. The guys that feel the need to do it have been sending them in. The only trouble is the ones that are doing it will never say a word. lol If it did not work they would be talking i suppose about how they got ripped. lol There are a lot of sneaky guys out there.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

To me you only have 2 choices after you put more than a piston/cam in. You buy FCR's (a nice quaility unit at 800 dollars plus) or you get Bob to modd the stockers. This post has gone on so long i even forgot what the cost is but you get, 1. dual flow pingle valve, some new fittings, fuel hose and about 50 bucks worth of new carb parts, 1.5 hours of machine work and carb work, 1 hour for this and 1 hour for that, then your carbs go on 1 or 3 or4 machines to run.

or you buy the FCR's and you need to read 4 books on how to jet them, make 6 hours of runs on one day along with 24 changes and then call it a day. Stay awake at night wondering what the problem is.. Then you get up and start over again adding different jets, needles, main air jets, pilots out of the extra 100 dollars worth of parts you should have ordered when you bought the FCR's. You finally get them dialed in to where you think they are right and until you run against 10 built raptors you will never know.

So you load that FCR equipted raptor in the truck/trailer and head to the dunes to meet your friends. After unloading everyone is ready to go. You head deep into the dunes having a great time for the first 30 minutes. After stopping and talking you put the helmet back on and off you go. You were leading and now you are dropping back slowly, the piped/jetted and piston cammed raptors are passing your 3000 dollar motor package with FCR's. You thumb is now aching and you hope camp is over the next hill................

 

14mins, That is funny it kind of brings back memorys from jetting. There has been weekends that I drove 4 hours to ride for two days and only rode about 20mins because of carb probs. I don't want to tire out my drinking hand holding those FCR's open all day.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]