[quote]
Originally posted by: CaptBags
So which should do? Raptor 03's 170L 175R suggestion or SixSixt's 150L 155R..

q]

Well..... beings that I put raptor03s engine together and tuned it I'll let you decide.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
I think using the lid in winter is a good idea and should work allright.
I would put in 25 pilots tho if you want to run with the lid off.

 

Capt,

Dyno jets and mikuni jets flow different rates of fuel. The numbers mean nothing. a 146 dynojet is not the same as a 145 mikuni jet. Dyno jets flow more fuel when used with their needles.

Put in the 148 left 150 right. (I think you are already there) on the needles use clip #4 for both needles. On the fuel/air screws, turn both in until it lightly seats and back each one out 3 turns. Put it all back together, take the lid off and enjoy your new found power. You do not read plugs from the color of the porcelion. You read plugs from the base ring to check jetting. You said the base ring is black. Thats because you are a bit rich with the 148/150 mains and your setup useing the dyno jet kit. The porcelion will change color over time. Not from the first, second or a few rides from being brand new. The ground strap is where you check the heat range of your plug. You want it to change color at the bend. Deep down inside the porcelion and between the base ring is where you look for signs of detonation useing a magnifying glass. Your jet kit comes with what you need for just a piped and jetted Raptor. As you build your quads engine ie 686 or whatever you can order more jets from dynojet.com at $2 each in increments of 5, ie 155,160,165 and so on. Turning your fuel air screws out to 3 turns should get rid of your glowing headpipes, if not go to 4 turns each. If at 4 turns it still glows red get some 25 or 27.5 pilot jets and open the fuel air screws up to 1 - 1.5 turns out and see how that goes. Then go in 1/2 turn incremets on the fuel air screws until your glowing head pipes go away. The stock pilots will work for you I beleive.

 

I have to give you rappy forum members credit for taking your time out & giving captbags a hand with his set up. Thats why I love these forums! captbags I hope you get everything worked out. props to you guys. This is why I'm a supporting member of this forum! Peace![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I have that same setup......

1. Mounting the Header pipe wasn't easy...the gaskets didn't want to stay in place while the header was installed causing a leak. After some trial and error I stood the quad on it's tail so that the gaskets were held in place by gravity and then I installed the head pipe....It still took a couple of trys.

2. DJ needles are much thinner then MI needles, therefore a smaller jet size will flow more fuel (they are numbered defently as well). I think DJ was looking for a smaller fuel droplet size thinking it would provide more power. This seems to work fine at sea level but not at higher altitudes.

At sea level start with the dj 146 and 148...Mine ran very well and would take most piped raptors at Glamis that way. If you are above 3000ft it's going to take some effort getting the DJ needls to work correctly (they flow too much in the low to middle range and not enough on top). I would save the time and buy several MI jets from 150 to 180 they don't cost that much. Start with the 155 and 160 and go from there.

Hope this helps.....Good Luck!

 

Hey Capt. wshrdskin is right about the difference between the mikuni jets and the dyno jets. When some one reccomends the #175, their talking mikuni jets. I ride @ Glamis sand dunes which is at about 200 ft. The coldest I've seen is 40 or so. It's my understanding that the low speed jet controls idle (along with the mixture screw) up to 1/4 throttle. From there, the needles and main jets take over to full throttle. The main jet alone doesn't fully control the air/fuel mixture because the needle never fully comes out of it. Also the needles supplied in your dyno jet kit have a more aggressive taper. For example: if you had a 145 main with a dynojet neddle you would probably flow more fuel than a 150 wih the stock needle. Hope this helps:-)

 

You bought new copper gasket things with the pipes didnt you? I have big gun headers, with the copper gaskets in, and the pipes tightened down I have absolutely 0 problems with exhaust leaks. As for jetting, if it runs run it, look at the plug and jet it by the plug, no one will be able to tell you the perfect way to jet your quad. try to get the spark plug looking copper. If it is white its lean, if its dark its rich.

 

CaptBags-----

If the gasoline in Illinois is like it is in Minnesota in the winter, its oxygenated. You will NEVER get a corrct plug reading using it. I was up to 195/200 mikuni jets and still showing lean. Even bored engines dont run that big.

Seems most of the warm climate boys never heard of this. Not even all cold climate states do it. Go get some 92 octane OFF-ROAD gas that is 100% gasoline and check again. Your problems may be solved.

Oh, the glowing head pipes does not for sure mean you are lean. I've heard lots of folks run a little rich and still glow a little.

Good luck

 

I was saying the tip of the plug was white and, the base was black.


{{{{ By The Way! I need to take this time to say:

Thanks very much for all your Help and, Advice. I will try what you guys recommend. Thanks again for all your time!}}}}}


I'm Still pissed that none of the stuff fits right and, the jetting maybe off and, the thing took nearly 2 month to get. And, now if i wanted to get a replacement header for the defective one, i can't cuz they are on backorder. FUDGE! Text

 

You can put a very thin layer of never-seize on the copper exhaust gaskets and they will stay in place with the quad on all four wheels. A little motor oil has worked for me before if I was out of never-seize.