I am pulling my buddy's engine out of his Raptor for him this weekend (bad tranny [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] ) I've pulled my DS engine before so as long as it is about the same I shouldn't have too much trouble.

Once I get everything disconnected, should I expect any issues? Looks like I'll have to remove the upper motor mount but, expected to do that anyways.

What am I missing?

Thanks!

 

I haven't pulled one but you may need to jack the quad up by the frame to remove the swing-arm/engine bolt. Have you looked at raptortranny.com?

 

Thanks 66T. . . I did notice that swing-arm bolt. I think I still have a hanger setup in my garage beem that I used a tie=down strap to hold up the quad when I put the extended swing-arm on the Wife's Raptor.

I don't remember Raptor Tranny pulling the engine (used it to pull the top end off the Wife's quad but, can't remember if Mike pulled the engine out first or not. I'll have to take another look.

 

You may have to take a little of the pressure off to get that bolt out, but we usually don't. Make sure you do not take the bolt completely out, leave it in the left hand part of the swingarm otherwise you are going to have hell getting it back in.

 

The biggest pain I had was the two allen bolts that hold an oil line into the motor back by the swingarm on the flywheel side. I never did find an easy way to get them out or to tighten them.....but I might be missing something as well.



Bartlett....LMAO!!!!!

 

Ward,

Take the proper size allen wrench, and cut the end of it off so that it's only 1/4 long or so. Works great!
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In adding, I recommend removing the lower front engine brackets that bolt too the frame. Easier turning the engine sideways and rolling it out. It's sort of wedged in there and can be a bear too get out. You need a working area about waist level and a 6 pack. The flywheel does not need too come off....the crank stays in the left side of the case. The counterbalancer needs too be in a particular location....you could use a permanent marker too help yourself get it back together correct. Have the parts (including a gasket kit and Yamabond or Hondabond) on hand before disassembling the engine.....that way you will not forget what goes where. Use gallon freezer bags and mark whats inside with a permanent marker....things go back together much smoother this way. You will need a large phillips head impact too get several bolts out on the inside of the right side of the case. Pay close attention too the way the components work that shifts gears. After it's pretty much back together leave the right side case off and make sure shifting action is good and akk of the gears are there.

 

Things are gonna be easier if you have access too an air impact gun and read up on timing the machine.

 

Thanks guys.

I won't be splitting the cases. Just pulling it out to get it to our builder.

Bartlett: I wish. . . (same size as the spark plug hole [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] )

Bad: Good drawing. . . are you an engineer?

I'm going to have to call my buddy's Wife and tell her to drop a 12-pack off. What was I thinking saying I would do the work and not asking for a 12-pack to help me with the job! Sometimes I can be such an Idiot!

 

Started on it tonight. Got almost everything but the fluids (coolant and oil.)

My question, what is the easiest way to remove the reverse? Cable doesn't look to have enough play in it to remove the slug at the end of the cable from the actuator cam. Should I just go ahead and remove the entire actuator from the case or is there a way to adjust the tension on the cable so I can loosen it and get the slug out?

Dang, my buddy has nerf bars. . . not sure if I will have to remove one side of them to get the sprocket cover off. That bottom allen on the countersprocket chain guard look like a pain in the A$$.

Coolants should be easy tomorrow and after that I just need to remove the lower engine mounts and the swing-arm mount and out she'll come!

I see that oil line Bartlett and Ward are talking about. Doesn't look bad but. . .

Thanks for the help guys!