What all is everyone's opinion on the best combination for the 686 kit. I was planning on stage 2 cam, 11:1 JE piston, kibblewhite springs, and 1mm oversize valves. What does the stage 2 cam give you over the stage 1? Is it very noticeable?

Thanks in advance

 

Have you done a search yet. There is a days worth of reading if you look.

 

yes, a little but I'm mainly concerned with any problems with a particular configuration

 

I dislike the stage 1 cam....when i upgraded to the stage 2 I noticed a HUGE power gain.........though i did go from stock bore 11:1 to 102mm 11:1, I gained some on the bottom, a good bit in the midrange, and a LOT on top.........
if you are going to run the JE 11:1 you will have to run race fuel.......you may as well step up to the 12.5:1......

 

From what I understand, the stage 2 and 11:1 JE is the best all around powerband gains so that is why I stuck with the 11:1. Also, how do the stock valves hold up when using the stage 2, 11:1? should I go ahead and replace the valves now or wait? What about the rod?

 

from a reliabitlity stand point, I would leave the valves and change the rod......Forget about the JE and get a Ross or CP piston
I'm scared of the JE pistons.........

 

won't the valves crap out shortly after getting beat to death with the stiffer springs? Too late for the piston...I bought a 686 cylinder and ceramic coated 11:1 piston together so that is what I have to work with.

 

The stage 2 cam requires stiffer valve springs. Most people with the 10.75/1 JE piston get by on premium pump fuel. I know my stock bore 10.75/1 JE Raptor had no problem with premium fuel. I do run a bit rich and 1 shade colder on the plug though. Race fuel is a pain too find for most people...and a lot more expense. Anyone have a stage 2 - 10.75/1 686 (equivalent or better) that is rode at least once a week that lasted over a year? 2 years?

 

I would go with the carillo rod it's the best. I would also go with ferrera valves +1mm. that is what I am putting on my bike with all the other stuff you metion in your post.

 

You should change the rod and the valve springs. Definetly the rod if you are going to a 686, and definetly change the springs if you are running a Stage 2 cam.

I have a similar set up as yours, but Craycraft has done all the work, and Falicon balanced the crank. So give me a week or so, and I'll let you know exactly how it runs...of course I'll have 35mm FCR's, so that will help alittle.