where and how much? And tell me if you know what's up with the oil filter. I haven't had my Warrior long, changed the oil tonight. When i pulled the plug, the spring and what looked like a wire mesh thimble came out. The replacement filter looks like a tiny air filter. Will it fit or did they give me the wrong one?

 

Sounds like your plug assembly is ok, and your filter does look like a tiny air filter. The oil filter cover is the circle shaped cap w/three hex screws in it right behind the gear shifter. Make sure you remember where the screws go, since one is longer. The filter will go with the side that has two small holes and one big hole in it towards inside the crankcase. Those two holes will go on two pointy rubber pegs (one on each side of the large hole), just look inside the crank when the oil cap is off, you will see. If it's the OEM filter you can reuse it a few times since it is a screen type and can just be cleaned w/ hose and engine degreaser, just rinse well after cleaning. Make sure the filter isn't beat up at all, just look for any damage. I found putting the hose up to the big hole in the end (the hole with the two small holes as well) cleaned it very quickly by reversing the flow through the filter.

Look for a thread called warrior cam and piston??? that was just posted in the last few days to read about my cooler project. That should answer many ?'s. Sounds like this topic is being twisted like that one was too!!! lol

 

back with the original subject, i took the carb off 2night and cleaned it all out made sure the jets were clean and when i put it back on it didtn change it much. I did however notice that the plug is fouling very quickly so i opened up the gap in the plug and it seemed to help it a bit for about 5 minutes. It started running bad and bogging down again at about 3/4 throttle so i pulled back in the shop and the plug was fouled again...... Any other ideas????

 

If the plug is covered in severe black carbon it is running rich, and if it is actually causing an oxide to form on the plug it is lean. Both of these factors must be changed w/ the needle. You must move the circular clip towards the tip of the needle by a slot at a time to make it richer (if its lean), or move it towards the the end where the clip is closest to make it lean (if it's rich). You really need to buy the Clymer or Yamaha book to learn completely how to tune the carb all around, which is more than likely your problem. The jetting may not even be the issue, just the needle, which does the fine tuning of the high end.

 

After taking the carb all apart and cleaning it,which it needed, i started messing with that needle on the bottom side of the carb. Since screwing it in should lean it out i ran it all the way in and it still runs rich!! It did however stop the boggin out problem it had so its running now and is back to its responsiveness like it should be. Are there any other suggestions on how to lean this out. PS i dont know if it will help you but i am running 93 in it if it makes a difference. thanks

 

Yeah, all you have to do is move down a jet size and then try calibrating the needle for that jet.

 

Sounds like a problem i had with my old warrior. It ended up being the ground wire going to the reverse mechanism. Take it apart and scrub clean all the connections. Its cheap and easy, should only take about a half hour...so why not try.