bad to ride hard during break in?
#11
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Originally posted by: wanaply21
its not bad ehh.... go buy urself a 2 stroke and get on it once u get it, the life of the motor is determined on the brek in, if u want a rebuild every month then go and do that
Originally posted by: Doctorturbo
No it' not bad. Warm it up and have at it. Never had a problem.
No it' not bad. Warm it up and have at it. Never had a problem.
#12
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Originally posted by: Yamaha4eva
no thats all 2 strokes... [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Originally posted by: wanaply21
its not bad ehh.... go buy urself a 2 stroke and get on it once u get it, the life of the motor is determined on the brek in, if u want a rebuild every month then go and do that
Originally posted by: Doctorturbo
No it' not bad. Warm it up and have at it. Never had a problem.
No it' not bad. Warm it up and have at it. Never had a problem.
#15
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wanaply21 I've owned many two and four strokes. Many stock engines and many blown and turbo'ed engines.
I've always broke them in hard and never had one problem with them. That goes for power and longevity. As far as longevity goes, I have a chainsaw that has cut more cords of wood than I care to recall. Runs like brand new. Always a first pull saw after it's warmed up, with tons of power.
If you have had problems with breaking them in hard; well; I don't know what to tell ya.
Do you really think all the people that buy two stroke chain saws and weedie eater's go through all of this "no more than 1/2 throttle BS? Better yet. Pro stock cars are seperated by thousands of a second. Don't you think if they could pick up 10 or 15 HP by breaking them in softly, they would? Same way with NASCAR. I live very close to a builder, he pops them on the dyno, warms them up, and wide open they go. Some of the best ring seal figures I have ever seen comes out of his shop. I guaranty ya, if he could pick up 10 ponys or so by "breaking them in slow" he would.
I looked at a race motor the other day that looked like the bores were burnished. There wasn't a lot of miles on it, but it had carbon all over the piston tops. No ridge at all, but the bores sure were slick!!! How was it broken in? Slow and rich!!!
You tell me, how breaking a two stroke in hard is detrirmental? Now I want you to be very specific. Please don't just say, "well, jeee, it's just hard on parts." Tell me what parts, and more so, how is it hard on parts.
Now I know I won't change your mind on this. I might not change anybody's mind on this. Do I care? Ha, ha, ha, ha, no, it's all good. Teams car took home the 1st place win the other night out of 16 cars. Hell, I hope all the people we race against take your advice!!!! That would make my job a whole lot easier!!!!
The best advice I can give is, "do what you think works best for you."
I've always broke them in hard and never had one problem with them. That goes for power and longevity. As far as longevity goes, I have a chainsaw that has cut more cords of wood than I care to recall. Runs like brand new. Always a first pull saw after it's warmed up, with tons of power.
If you have had problems with breaking them in hard; well; I don't know what to tell ya.
Do you really think all the people that buy two stroke chain saws and weedie eater's go through all of this "no more than 1/2 throttle BS? Better yet. Pro stock cars are seperated by thousands of a second. Don't you think if they could pick up 10 or 15 HP by breaking them in softly, they would? Same way with NASCAR. I live very close to a builder, he pops them on the dyno, warms them up, and wide open they go. Some of the best ring seal figures I have ever seen comes out of his shop. I guaranty ya, if he could pick up 10 ponys or so by "breaking them in slow" he would.
I looked at a race motor the other day that looked like the bores were burnished. There wasn't a lot of miles on it, but it had carbon all over the piston tops. No ridge at all, but the bores sure were slick!!! How was it broken in? Slow and rich!!!
You tell me, how breaking a two stroke in hard is detrirmental? Now I want you to be very specific. Please don't just say, "well, jeee, it's just hard on parts." Tell me what parts, and more so, how is it hard on parts.
Now I know I won't change your mind on this. I might not change anybody's mind on this. Do I care? Ha, ha, ha, ha, no, it's all good. Teams car took home the 1st place win the other night out of 16 cars. Hell, I hope all the people we race against take your advice!!!! That would make my job a whole lot easier!!!!
The best advice I can give is, "do what you think works best for you."
#17
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Muddbogger going by what everyone else says. I'd break it in slow for the first half of the break in process and then kinda hard from there out. The only reason you should have to break it in hard is if you wanna take and race it against someone else and need to get some extra horse power out of it ( so unless you are a racer don't break it in hard ) but don't worry about it to much if you break it in hard it wont make a big difference in its longevity ( I don't believe it does at least , I broke mine in easy so I can't tell you for sure )
#19
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I stand corrected. Thank you gentlemen for giving me some insight. I am in the process of building an 11:1 686 Raptor. I was going to ride it easy for a day or two then take it to the dyno shop for a full test/tune session, but now I am going to take it straight from the builder to the dyno. That website sure made me think! It all sounds reasonable, so that is what I am going to believe until I learn differently. Thanks!
RR1
RR1