From my experience, the stg 1 hc made enough of a performance difference to warrant installing it alone.

 

theres quite a big difference more pull but it snapped cam chain so im outta the game for a few

 

Did you release the tension on the cam chain tensioner before you put it back in? You have to take the center bolt out of the tensioner, lift the lever to push the rod all the way into the housing, install the housing, and then install the spring and center bolt. If you don't do it in that order, the tensioner extends fully and when you install the housing, it puts a tremendous strain on the cam chain.

 

that would explain my complete stupididty and y it snapped. could you explain that again a lil bit more detailed if possible thanks.

 

just wondering how come the tensionor has to be adjusted if the chain never left the sprocket? but sitting here i think i know....because there is higher lift???

 

The cam chain tensioner automatically compensates for timing chain stretch. There are 2 bolts holding the housing and the large bolt in the center that holds the spring. With the tensioner out of the engine and the spring/bolt installed, the plunger moves out as far as it will go because there is nothing to stop it. If you then remove the large center bolt and spring, the plunger will still be out because on the bottom of the plunger, there are teeth that engage a latch in the housing. Before you re-install the tensioner, that latch must be lifted and the plunger pushed all the way back into the housing **without the spring and large bolt installed**. If you lift the latch and push in the plunger with the spring/bolt installed, it will just extend again because there is nothing pushing back on the plunger. Install the housing with the plunger all the way into the tensioner housing, the plunger won't be anywhere near the timing chain and you should be able to hold the housing flat against the jug without any resistance. After the tensioner housing is installed and tightend down, you can install the spring and large bolt. The spring will push the plunger against the timing chain slider and stop when the spring isn't strong enough to push the plunger any further out. As the timing chain wears, the spring keeps constant pressure on the plunger and it moves forward one tooth at a time and locks there. At some point, a new chain will stop stretching and the tensioner just maintains constant pressure on the timing chain by pushing on the large black plastic slider inside the jug.

If you did not remove pressure from the plunger and push it back into the tensioner housing, you will install it extended and wreck your timing chain. Instead of 2 lbs of pressure on the timing chain, you'll have 20 (just numbers for example, I don't know the exact tension).

Sorry you had to learn that one the hard way, we haven't talked about it much on the forums. Glad it didn't wreck your valves/piston/rod though, it could have been much worse.

 

Try .006" on the intake and .008" on the exhaust, it should quiet down. You have to keep an eye on the intakes though, they do tighten up and .006" is not a lot of slop. .006/.008 is perfectly safe for your motor but don't let it go for 100 hours between adjustments, no more than 20 hours if you run minimum clearances.

 

you know if i would have actually taken the time to see how that tentioner worked instead of having that urge (to have to hold on real tight or youll be thrown off). that just let me know how my stupidity cost me time and $$$ i appreciate your post. i took it all apart and there seems to be just a very little spot where the exhaust valve's hit the piston the pistons fine. i poured some solvent down the exhaust port and it seemed to leak out a bit should be alright but i think im gunna replace them anyway. the chain i can line back up the teeth to where they were so i dont think there ANY big chunks of metal floating around but i did see very very small particles of metal in the oil like so small u can barley see it and im sure that is all over is there any way to get that completelet out of the motor besides sparying it with something? also is there such a thing as an aftermarket cam chain i wouldnt see y not but someone on here said no just wonderin thanks![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

 

r valves expensive?

 

not to bad prob get a set for 200