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#1
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I Just got my bike back from the shop today (1700$$ later) and He gave me all the parts and what not The new clutch feels very very nice i kiled it the first time i tried to ride it because it feels so differnt.. But Anyways He mentioned to me on the phone that my valves were white and i am prob running lean.. I told him thats prob because the previous builder put way to small of jets in and i told him i had recently bumped it up.. But I Have put about 8 hours on the bike sense i bumped it up i would think any signs of leaning it out would be gone.. But WHen i installed my new oil tank i had to take off the headers and they were also a bright white.. all the way through.. I posted pictures of my valves in my bios.. they should be up soon if not already.. Tell me what you think would they have gotten darker and mroe grimey after 8 hours of being properly jetted or am i still running way lean? I have a 155 and 160 dyno jet main and 25 pilots and i have dynojet needles on the 3 pos.. I also have a k/n proflow intake with out the lid and my intake has been ported and polished.. What do you guys suggest i go up too? AND where can i buy just single DYnojet mains? I have some 180 Mukini Mains but i was told not to mix mukini mains and Dyno jet needles.. What are your guys thoughts thanks for everything.
(rundown)
Heres what cost me 1700 bucks
Yamahas faulty build with not putting lock tight on the bolts that connect the one way and the flywheel caused the bolts to slowly back out and get sheered off once they were all gone the gear holding the one way became wobbley and then the cam chain broke.. when that broke it broke the metal guide that guides the chain(had to be fabricated) and then having the broken cam chain caused the piston to hit the valves bending teh valves and breaking the rocker arm. the one way i have (that is stock) is in perfect condition and never went out but i decided once i was already into the engine i would replace it with the l&A one way anyways.. so i replaced that Also the same time this happened my oil tank began to leak so i had to buy a new one of those.. i bought the aftermarket one.. The new valves i went with are black diamond valves and igot a heavy duty cam chain from sparks.. The guy put it all together and he told me that i will hear some clicking for a little bit because he said he didnt tighten it to specs because hes fairly sure it will change and what not so i gotta take it back in soon. after some riding hours.. Also with new valves is there a trick to getting them to seat themselves right and work properly?
thanks
(rundown)
Heres what cost me 1700 bucks
Yamahas faulty build with not putting lock tight on the bolts that connect the one way and the flywheel caused the bolts to slowly back out and get sheered off once they were all gone the gear holding the one way became wobbley and then the cam chain broke.. when that broke it broke the metal guide that guides the chain(had to be fabricated) and then having the broken cam chain caused the piston to hit the valves bending teh valves and breaking the rocker arm. the one way i have (that is stock) is in perfect condition and never went out but i decided once i was already into the engine i would replace it with the l&A one way anyways.. so i replaced that Also the same time this happened my oil tank began to leak so i had to buy a new one of those.. i bought the aftermarket one.. The new valves i went with are black diamond valves and igot a heavy duty cam chain from sparks.. The guy put it all together and he told me that i will hear some clicking for a little bit because he said he didnt tighten it to specs because hes fairly sure it will change and what not so i gotta take it back in soon. after some riding hours.. Also with new valves is there a trick to getting them to seat themselves right and work properly?
thanks
#5
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I have a 686 running a stage 2 cam along with a 10.75/1 JE. I run a pro flo foam filter + FMF powerbomb headpipe + white bros E series muffler with 12 disks and no end cap (straight thru). I run DJ needles in the 4th position from top on the left side and use the 5th position from the top on the right carb. I run MIKUNI mains at 190-192.5. Yes, thats small round mains...same as stock type and the same metering system. I also run 27.5 pilots. If I am not mistaken, I have them set at 1.75 for the left side and 2.5 for the right side (done right with a vacuum guage). I ride around sea level up too maybe 2,500'. Runs strong.
Yes, your stuff looks like it's running very lean. It's a wonder it has not melted down.
Gary
Yes, your stuff looks like it's running very lean. It's a wonder it has not melted down.
Gary
#6
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WOuld that be the reason that i havent been expirencing the power that i have longed for ever sense the motor work? also.. Im at 5,000 feet.. I'm pretty sure that i have Dynojet needles but how can u really know? also Is there a place online to buy Dynojet jets? in single packs?
#7
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#8
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Originally posted by: pinheadedjoker
WOuld that be the reason that i havent been expirencing the power that i have longed for ever sense the motor work? also.. Im at 5,000 feet.. I'm pretty sure that i have Dynojet needles but how can u really know? also Is there a place online to buy Dynojet jets? in single packs?
WOuld that be the reason that i havent been expirencing the power that i have longed for ever sense the motor work? also.. Im at 5,000 feet.. I'm pretty sure that i have Dynojet needles but how can u really know? also Is there a place online to buy Dynojet jets? in single packs?
#10
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In trying too make things more simple, Dyno Jet and Mikuni jets really are not comparable. Mikuni bases their numbering system on SIZE, and Dyno-jet bases their numbering system on FLOW. I have no troubles running Mikuni Mains on DJ needles. Why not go too your local shop and pick up small round Mikuni mains, maybe 160 through 185, and see what works best. Start high and work your way down. No one can tell you what your engines exact fuel needs are. Tuning your engine separates the men for the boys.
Gary
Gary