I recently purchased a 2003 Prairie 650. It's pretty beat up, but only has 230 hours and 1250 miles on it. Has a list of to-do items:

1. Fuel/Carbs - It definitely has some fuel starvation going on. It will idle without choke but won't accelerate without it. If you turn the choke off while running, it immediately bogs down. I was thinking it could be a fuel delivery issue, as the fuel smelled terrible. Even with the choke on, it will only go 1/2 throttle ~ 45 MPH. Previous owner says it does about 65 when carbs are clean.
2. Front Brakes - They simply didn't work at all. Seller says they have never worked since he got the machine, but the back brakes are great, so he didn't care. When I popped the cover, the system was completely dry, so I filled it with brake fluid and bled it and so far, so good. There might still be a little air in the line, as they aren't as solid as my 360's brakes but they are working OK. Don't see any leaks.
3. Front left inner CV axle boot - Found a tear after riding through the woods. No dirt in it, so it's a fresh tear. Old rubber. Should I buy a boot or a new axle?
4. Soft suspension - Not so happy with how it handles (or doesn't) when going over tree roots and rocks. Is there any way to tighten up the ride?
5. Belt or gear whine? - When riding, the machine whines. Sounds like either belt or the gears. It's constant when moving, stops when not moving.

Ther are other things, like the key switch that only works sometimes and the left foot tray is bent down somewhat.

Would appreciate any advice or experience you can share about the items above or these machines in general. Seems like it will be a fun machine once I get it running right.

 

I don't know the Brute Force at all, but from old posts on here setting the carbs is a very difficult exercise and some dealers couldn't do it. So hope that with a clean out, the original settings are correct. It was one machine that was improved when they went over to EFI.
I have had the disappearing fluid problem on other makes. It must have gone somewhere, but no evidence of leaks means you can't fix it. Just keep an eye on the fluid level. You may notice a weep from somewhere after a while too.
As long as the CV shaft isn't "clacking" on full lock. a new boot will fix it. Some are pigs to fit and it is about the messiest job on a quad.
Some spring/shock units are adjustable for spring tension on a snail cam, take a look, and adjust to maximum if they are.
Some bikes do make whining noises, not much you can do unless it gets worse and you start to think a bearing is going.
The key switch is important though and best to fit a new one before it decides it isn't going to work when you are miles from anywhere.

 

Thanks, Merryman! You have been helpful to others for many years, and I really appreciate your kindness.

I went to a Kawie site and they say that machine's gears just whine, with nothing to be done. They say I'll get used to it. It doesn't bother me, I just never heard that from my 360 Prairie, so I was a bit concerned.

The brakes are as you say - no obvious leaks. I will be keeping an eye on it, but it's working for now.

I just ordered a boot kit. Thanks for the messy warning! I watched a video, and it looks like a mess. Hopefully, it will be worth it!

We will see about the carbs. I will count turns out carefully, and hope for the best. I don't know if the previous owner messed with them or not, but I'll read the service manual carefully and see how it goes. Worst case, I have a guy I can take it to, but man, is he slow. I could order a temp carb from Amazon, but they are $300-$400! That's a lot for an Amazon carb.

 

Update:
Yesterday, I filled the empty front brake reservoir with fluid and tried to bleed the brake system. I was 50% successful, in my opinion. I have brakes that work, now, but they are weak. Still, from no brakes to some brakes is a step in the right direction. Not sure if there is still air in the lines somewhere, or if it's something else.

I'll need to watch carefully for leaks and try to bleed them again. I'm thrilled that the calipers aren't frozen up.

 

Also, after a ride through the woods yesterday, I discovered a big tear in my left front inner CV boot. It looked like it was brand new, because there wasn't a speck of dirt in the grease. I think a stick went right up the wrong way.

The machine rides well, with no noise or clicking. Could I just replace the boot, or do I need to buy an entire axle assembly?

 

More good news...

1. The brakes that I bled again yesterday were still spongey feeling, but today they are rock solid. They feel great! I guess they just needed some time for the air to work its way out. Still don't see any leaks, but keeping my eyes open for it. Reservoir is still full, but I plan to keep a small bottle of brake fluid in the box.

2. I made a Saran-wrap and zip-tie protector for my split CV boot to keep dirt out. I figured that it would probably fall off as soon as I took it for a ride, but worth a try. After running through the woods for a couple of miles and back I decided to take a look to see how bad I'd messed things up:



To my surprise, it looks like I just put it on, despite riding hard for a number of miles through thick woods. Not bad! I'll have to remember that trick. Bring Saran Wrap and zip ties on rides with us.

Here is an opinion question:
1. What is easier to do- a CV boot replacement or replacing the entire front axle?
2. Is an aftermarket axle okay, or is OEM necessary? The cost is $75 versus $171

Man, I'm all revved up! That was a fun ride. Starting to feel the power of the V-twin!

 

As I wrote in my first post, if the shaft isn't clacking on full lock, just replace the boot. We always fit aftermarket shafts if the old shaft is clacking, but our USP is being able to undercut the prices main dealers charge for repairs.

 

Thanks for that info. The new boot arrives today, but I'm not sure what I'm listening for when testing. A steady clack-clack-clack, or just an occasional clack sound? Should I do it going uphill, downhill or flat ground, or does it matter?

Thanks

 

On level ground, do a circle on full lock in forwards and then reverse, try on both left hand lock and right hand lock. Once you hear it, it is usually a constant clack, clack, clack, on that lock, but can be intermittent.

 

I did the test, and it was quiet- no noise of any kind. I think the axle is just fine. Thanks for that help!

I do notice a "clack!" sound coming from the right side when going over bumps. Sounds like a bushing or something similar.

My nephew is just recovering from a nasty accident with his Warrior. The nut backed out of his ball joint and the front end dumped and the machine flipped forward. Broke his wrist and collarbone. So I'm a bit wary of suspension issues.

I need to figure out what the clack is. Any good way to test joints? My gut says it's either the A-arm bushings, the ball joint or a bushing on the right shock.

I think it happens when you come off something and the front comes off the ground, but I need to test more to verify that. Man, my list is getting longer and longer with this machine...