ok, whats involved in the rebuild, i know a new piston, rings seals, but whats involved with boreing and stuff?

 

send your cylinder to a shop who knows what theyre doing, they will take care of it all

 

Bring your cylinder to a shop...it usually costs about $30 to get it bored if it needs it.

They will then tell you what size piston you need to purchase....or order it for you.

A really good shop will want the piston in hand as they do the bore job...they will then check the ring gap for you and match it all up so it is ready for install.

I would recommend a new wrist pin bearing as well as gaskets...

If your doing the reassembly yourself...make sure you clean the freshly bored cyclinder with a good amount of dish soap and water...then let is dry completely before you put it back together.

 

Seals?
You won't need any of those unless you get into bottom end stuff. While you have your top end apart, check the crank bearings and rod bearings. Your connecting rod should have a little side to side play, but NO up and down movment at all.

Boring is tricky. Some people do it and don't need to thinking they will get more power, when in truth taking it first, or second oversize won't even give you a full CC of extra power. When you take off your cylinder, check it over and make sure there is no noticable cracks or other damage on the outside of the cylinder and inside the intake and transfer ports. Have a shop check the cylinder on the inside. Unless you have experience its hard to tell what needs to be bored and what dosn't.

Once you get your cylinder bored (if needed) it's time for a piston. Most kits come complete with piston, rings, circlips, and a wrist pin. Some come with a rist pin bearing, and some don't so you want to check that out. I wouldn't do a top end using the same pin bearings. You will need a base gasket, head, and intake gasket. Again, you can get a kit complete with these things. While your at it, you might want to replace the exhaust gasket, just for good measure.

While your motor is apart its a good time to clean out your head. After a while they start to build up carbon inside the combustion chamber. It's always a good idea to clean this out when ever you have it apart. Use some fine sand paper and gently sand it away. When it's all gone, get a finer paper and get the scratches out and polish it up the best you can. Again, this isn't somthing you need to do and most people don't, but I find it's always better to keep it as clean as possiable to keep it running top notch.

Make sure you torque your cylinder and head down to the right torque. To tight, or too loose can cause a world of new problems.
Blaster torque specs are:
Cylinder head nuts - 20 ft. lbs
Cylinder base nuts - 18 ft. lbs
Exhaust pipe nuts - 15 ft. lbs
Intake manifold - 17 ft. lbs

Hope this helps.
Shav0

 

this one guy from hollywood dirt told me seals are like insurance, he said he highly recomended them.

 

and thanks for the help everyone

 

i think youre mistaking seals for gaskets

 

Yes they are like insurance, but there are no seals in your top end. If you want to replace them you can, but thats getting into bottom end stuff that people don't usually do unless they need to.

 

he's right, its not a bad idea to pop a new main seal in behind the flywheel if you have it apart, that is cheap insurance against an air leak.

 

Clean the cylender walls with dish soap and warm water then dry and then put a light coat of 2 stroke oil on it before assembly.