Ron, You did okay. You would have to search high and low to find a better deal. Since you did buy all that stuff from the dealer, I would have them check out your concerns....

The Grizz is a nice machine, I'm sure you'll be pleased with it....

dave

 

Top speed problems like these guys said are probably having a lot to do with the belt (which I know nothing about). It would be good to do a cheap tune up on it, if for no other reason to eleviate those types of possibilities of the problem source.

Clean out the carburator, adjust the valves, put a new spark plug in it, and check the air filter out. Might as well change the oil and filter while you are at it there too. All of these things can be done at home with just a little time, but even if they are done at the dealership, they won't cost too awful much.

www.ansley.net might have a few service tips on the Grizzly. I think thats where I got my valve specs from once before. Its TexMudders website.

If you get all that stuff in check and still have those problems, you can cross those possibilities off the list and have the dealership focus on more specific issues such as the belt stuff. Otherwise, you might end up taking it to them and they just do the valves and sparkplug and you get it back with the same problem still persisting, thus another trip to the dealer after that.

I would think if it was engine problems you would be able to hear it running bad though.

 

Thanks everyone!

I'm taking it to the dealer on Monday with a summarized list of issues. I will let you know what happens as soon as I get it back & test ride it.

Happy wheeling everyone! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

- Ron

 

If it only goes 48 in high range then I’d say there is definitely a problem with the belt and / or clutch. More than likely who ever had it before you submerged it in a mud hole that was too deep where it ingested water / mud through the snorkel and didn’t clean it out properly afterwards. It should do 65 mph on a flat surface (in high range).

I found that if you try to engage the front diff lock while you are moving (even very slowly) it will not run right (sputters severely). The owners manual says you must be fully stopped in order to engage the diff lock and I have never had a problem when following that procedure. Also you are limited to 22 mph while in diff lock mode (unless you have a model which has the override button on it, or add this modification yourself). BTW this does not pertain to engaging the 4WD button. You can go in and out of 4WD while you are moving (although the manual does not recommend it for safety reasons).

Grizzly rear brake chattering is normal, they all do that.

As for getting it into Park (and Reverse for that matter) be sure you are pressing on the rear brake pedal (the foot brake) as there is an interlock that must be disengaged in order for it to shift into those two positions. The left brake lever (also the rear brake) does not have this interlock (it is only on the foot pedal). If you are doing this and it is still difficult to engage, make sure your machine is not idling too fast. If the idle is set properly and you are pressing on the rear brake pedal and it still wont engage easily, your shift linkage most likely needs adjustment (I sometimes have to rock my machine a little to get it to switch into "Park", although my linkage probably needs adjusting too). You do not have to press on the foot brake to go from Reverse to Forward High (only vice versa).

My Grizzly has never been lacking for power when it comes to hill climbing (although where I ride the elevation only varies between 400 and 3000 feet above sea level). In fact I’ve never had to use low range to go up any hill as it does it easily in high. The only time I use low range is when going down a really steep and rough hill or to tow really heavy loads. My Grizzly would wheelie with throttle application only when it was new (without a winch) but after I installed a winch up front I had to jerk on the bars along with throttle application to bring the front end up.

As far as the ’03 models go, be wary of the CV joints. They have a reputation of breaking (especially when using larger than stock tires). This is a problem that was unique to the 2003 models only...

 

Just give it some tlc and it will reward you with amazing performance. I had an EPI clutch kit installed and with 26" tires I can wheelie in high gear without any help at all. It will break the tires loose at 35mph on hard pack dirt trails. It can be molded into a real monster. I had to set the rear suspension on the next to highest setting to keep it from squating so bad, because of all the low end torque in high gear. I am thinking about putting lighter clutch weights in so I will have even lower gearing and massive acceleration. Low is the way to go on steep hill climbs, but I almost always go up in high and rip the whole way up. The power kit is exactly what it sounds like. I also modified my airbox lid with 12 uni vents and ended up 5 main jet sizes bigger with all the extra air. Have fun with it. You will be able to pick the brains of a lot of people on this board and get things working perfect. Even better than stock.

 

Mine has always went into reverse or park with the rear brake lever as well as the foot brake. I thought they both run off the same master cylinder and cables. I know if I squeeze the handbrake, the footbrake will drop on its own.

 

Humm, I'll have to try that again just to be sure. I did notice that my foot brake moves when I squeeze the rear brake lever, but it doesn't go all the way down (I can push it down further with my foot)...

 

I forgot about the brake and shifting. Modifying that so that I don't have to use the brake to shift was the first thing I did to the machine.

 

Wow! You guys are awesome. What a gold mine of info.

I am going to give the Grizzly to the dealer on Monday, along with a list of complaints/issues. I will let them have it for a full week then pick it up.

I hope they will fix everything to make it right.

Then... I am going to post a bunch of questions on how to make it even better. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Depending on what the dealer does to make it have more power... I may want to bump it up even more. CV joints break easily? Then I will want to know where I can get tougher ones... etc.

The stock tires have at least 2 plugs in each tire... so I know I will be looking for new tires. I want rims as well so I can have spares incase of a flat. Anyway... I've got tons of questions that I will post after the dealer has a round at it.

Thanks,
Ron

 

huh, don't get me going on them cv joints. I've broke 3 so far, never did buy aftermarket yet though. So I guess its my fault, but its still cheaper to buy rebuild kits over the price of aftermarket axles. At least up to a certain point.