Haha thats cool man, fill your boots.

 

what do u mean?

 

you'll see, Im not going to say anything yet because nothing is for sure right now.

 

Where can you get the longrod set up!?

 

You either buy a crank already outfit with the longer rod or buy a long rod kit and have your crank rebuilt. There are a couple of advantages to having a long rod over a stock length rod. First is that the side load of the piston to the cylinder wall is reduced. The wrist pin is moved in most cases to offset the amount of rod length change. The second advantage is that the piston actually stays a fraction of a second longer (more dwell) at the top portion of the stroke and that helps burn the air fuel better.

Dont get that confused with a stroker crank. In an actual stroker the amount of travel that the piston moves up and down is increased and bumps up the CC's of the motor. It also generates more torque. More stroke=more torque.

There are other factors and ways of doing different combos, but both will be beneficial.

 

The origional design of the motor was to use the intake track of that of a CR250 motocross bike, like the one shown in my pic page. However the problem with this is that this design hasn't been tested yet so ring life is in question. Because the ports are so wide piston vibration might also be in question. What we have decided to do is put the design to the test on the track first. One of his sponcered riders is going to take that design and put it to the test on the track before it gets produced. It just makes more sence to do it this way, with me being in Canada and all. If somthing was to go wrong with it once I got it here, it would be time consuming to fix it, so it just makes more sence.

But what does that leave for my motor??, you'll see.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

As for the rest of you heres the deal. There has been a build going on for a local rider who is sponcered for HWD and does alot of racing. I have decided that its better off for this engine design to stay local with the builder so he can keep a eye on the results and test its peformance. So the plan is for him to test the design local (ohio) in one of his riders quads. The brand new engine that he just finished for him is now going to be mine, so its basically a trade off. This engine has been run and tested and everything dialed in perfect so its ready to go. Here are the specs

National Spec 240
Long rod crank
All new bearings and seals in the entire bottom end
PE aluminum clutch basket
8oz flywheel
no counterbalance
trans gears highly polished for smooth shifting
booysen duel stage reeds
35mm intake manifold
case matched
Cases PC'd yellow to match frame
Clutch cover PC'd blue
..and some other odds and ends

So all in all its basically the same design as I was getting before. Its been tested both on and off the track and it pulls real hard. Its got torque up the azz, compared to what a normal 2 stroke has, as well as packs a mean hit in the mid range.

The cases are machined and ready for a stroker, although it dosn't have one. But maybe someday it will[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Its been raced at the summit indoor event just a week or so ago, as well as it put a spankin on a 250R during a pratice race and gave a rap a run for its money.

 

Thats awesome!....beating 250Rs!! i want to put a 240 kit in mine...but im worried it will screw something up.

 

Let me tell you a story about that, lol
Back in April I got a basic 240 kit with a new carb, ported of course. The power was awsome but I skiped one very important detail, I didn't OK the bottom end. See my bike was bought in winter of 99, and its a 2000 model and that was the origional bottom end in it. When i put a new top end on a old bottom end I was just asking for trouble. After running that 240 for a couple of months I had a problem with the bottom end, which also destroyed my top end.

The problem lies with the counterbalance gear. This gear is held onto the countershaft with three rivits. One of the rivits had broke loose causing the gear to run a little ****-eyed on the shaft. This is what produced the massive vibrations that I was feeling. All this vibration cracked my cylinder right next to the mounting tab on the clutch side. Because this is where the clutch tab connects there is added stress on that side of the cylinder. So over the winter I started from scratch, everything new, which leads me to where I am now.

So my advice to you is make sure everything is OK in your bottom end. The last thing you want is to freshen up that top end only to have a crank bearing or somthing let go.