It's not just Yamaha - ALL quads are subject to this and I hate it >_<. I snapped the stud in the cylinder head that holds the header pipe in place; there was just no avoiding it and god damn did I drill that beast out VERY carefully X_X.

Here are some tips to remove tight stubborn bolts:

1. Tap the bolt with a hammer all around with a good amount but not to much force; this helps to break up any corrosion and crud holding the bolt down.

2. Apply some deep penetrating lubricant around the bolt and let it sit for an hour (WD-40) then tap and try again.

3. Use the right socket for the job - to severely decrease the chance of stripping if it's a tight lug nut or bolt use a 6 point socket not a 12.

4. When I do maintenance on the quad I usually go around and loosen the critical bolts a little and tighten them again - when bolts sit for a while and get crap in them they kind of get welded to the threads they are seated in. Doing this I find stops the corrosion, rust, and any other crap from gumming the bolt up and allows for an easy bullsh!t free removal next time you need to.

5. For carbs I find really the only way not to strip the screw is by using the exact correct size screw driver and applying a **** load of down pressure and turning at the same time.

6. Impact guns - love them and use them X_X.

7. If a bolt breaks go pick up a bolt removal bit from the hardware store and drill that beast out.

These are some of the methods I have discovered to be most effective at preventing/removing sh!tty bolts. If anyone else has something dif let me know!!!

 

Go to www.alloyboltz.com
Russ has every bolt for the raptor and many other atv's in stainless steel and polished stainless steel. He has SS bolt kits for a complete raptor or just individual parts of the raptor. I use them on a lot of my builds. His bolt kits are second to none, the bolts for the sub frame, foot pegs, engine mounts and shocks are 12 point polished ARP SS grade 8 or better.

 

when your working with the bolts, make sure to use 6 point sockets, not 12 point ones, almost a guarantee that it wont round off the top if you are using the right size

 

Im glad it wasnt just me that has stripped out, broken off, or rounded off many bolts and screws on my raptor. You know maybe i should wise up and get a freaking torque wrench!

 

I would agree on this subject! One of the bolts on my bumper snapped off from giving a 1-1.5" tree a nudge!!! Most of the other screws and bolts were replaced with items that resist vibration loosening anyway, and are much better quality. Has anyone else had the problem of the dealers way overtightening the screws and bolts in the first place? That was the main problem I had originally.

 

It's not the grade of the nuts and bolts...it's the crap tools your using on them. There is a big difference between a $200 set of snap on or MAC sockets and $20 other brand set. Or your just doing it wrong....

 

LOL, are you kidding me?

 

Keep the snapon tools, I'll buy a hacksaw and two new bumpers for that $$$. I was only in 1st or 2nd gear caught in a rut, no bolt that size should've snapped so easily. Crapsman will work fine if you follow the right torque specs and use the right socket for the job. If the stock bolts are indeed not the problem and no one does anything right, why have so many people had trouble with the removal/snapping of z400 swingarm pivot bolts? That's exactly why the aftermarket ones are made of stainless, perfect example. I've seen it happen more than once where the bolts have snapped before even reaching their torque specs out of the book. Guess we can't read either, oh forgot how did I read the threads?

 

Hey man, I couldn't care less if you think i'm right or not i'm just saying that the right tools make all the difference.

 

The right tools do make all the difference, but that refers to the correct type and size of tools not the name brand engraved into the handle.