guys if you have carb trouble look this guy up on here renegade888 this guy is smooth and knows his stuff read on to discover a little trick . tHello and thanks for the vote of confidence, hope I can help. The sooner one gets over confident on carbs the sooner something new comes along to teach us a new lesson. (why I am not a highly paid car designer sitting here in the cold northeast instead of vacationing in the caribean like a physicist would be this time of year). Anyway, the 1st thing that comes to my mind is......assuming you mean by the term "idling wide open" to be idling too fast, there is a possibility that you did not tighten one of the jets in the carb. I've done it before. The fuel will get past the loose threads. 2nd thing coming to mind. You may have put the slider back into the carb body out of rotation or out of alignment. (This is actually my 1st choice, happens more often). If the slider is not perfectly aligned with the carb body the main jet needle (long skinny needle sticking out of the bottom of the slider) will miss the hole in the center of the main jet below in the carb body. This will stop the slider from sliding all the way down back into the carb thus holding the throttle open about a 1/4 of its travel. You probably want to pull the carb lid off again where the throttle cable comes in, no need to remove the carb, and pull the slider up and out and this time diligently slide it all together keeping a close eye on the needle to main jet center hole alignment. Pay attention to how far the slider appears to drop in. Purposely do it wrong just to see how far it drops in and then do it right and you will feel the difference immediately. Will make you say "Oh! OK!" " I see the difference" Now another thing to check for is vacume leaks. TOo much air will raise the idle. Simply spray all the connecting joints, carb bowl gasket, intake manifold joints around the carb clamps (hose clamp looking thingies) and also the carb lid. Listen for an rpm change. My 1st bet however is the throttle slide is not going all the way down. Done that boo boo about a hundred times myself. Now you may also have a high or low float level condition. Here is a slick trick your buddies will be in awe of you when you do this! This is fast float check technique. No dissassembly required. Wish I knew this one years ago. Notice the drain hose coming out the bottom of the carb bowl. If that is missing you can at least see the nipple protruding from the bowl usually with a phillips screw just above it working as a drain valve. Now that you probbly see what I am referring to, grab yourself a clear piece of tubing the same size that will fit snigly onto that nipple. Get some at your hardware/automotive store if you do not have any. It is only about 15 cents per foot. I myself have 3 sizes. One smaller, one bigger and one equal size to cover most carbs. About 6 foot of each will be plenty for future projects. Take the correct size and cut about a foot off of it to use for this. Stick that onto your carbs nipple at the bottom of the bowl. Turn your gas off at the tank to prevent more fuel from entering the carb bowl. We want to see just how much fuel the floats are allowing to enter the bowl. Now with the new clear hose attached to the carb, bend it upward like a letter "u" shape holding the loose end straight upward and somewhere close to the carb, crack open that phillips drain screw. Let it stay open. The fuel will run into the clear hose thanks to gravity and it will proceed down the hose and around the bottom of the "u" that you have formed. Then it should climb back up the other end of the "u" toward the loose end ofthe hose that you are holding at this point. Here is the cool part! It will settle thanks to the laws of physics at the same level that the fuel is inside of your carb. bowl. Should level out somewhere close to the bowl gasket level. Higher is probably rich and lower is probably lean. Just imagine the water levels contractors use to lay foundations, plumbing etc. You can see them at Sears or Home Depot etc. Works the same way. I just worked on my buddies brand new quad, 1st break in service. Plug was black, rough idle. Was probably losing top end power and probably wasting fuel. It was coincidentally a Yamaha. (Bruin 4x4). Threw the hose on in about 10 seconds. Shut off the fuel and stuck the hose on and cracked open the drain screw. Walaah it was 1/2 of an inch to the rich side. Above the float bowl gasket. He really got a kick out of how fast we found his problem. Had discovered a non adjusted float from the factory in well under a minute. Tomorrow we are popping off the carb and settiing the float. Yamaha is good at not adjusting their floats for some reason. Read the Grizzly threads. I've assisted a few new Grizzly owners with the same. ALL Grizzlies come mis adjusted. Actually non adjusted frm the factory. Don't know why but that is how they arrive at the shop. Good luck and let me know. Also if you wish copy and paste this to a thread for others to benefit. Happy trails.

hat work good.