The carbs, pistons, and rods are availible from a lot of places. Even more offer gaskets. Make sure you get quality gaskets, like cometic, and not some fly by night company that made thier gaskets from tar paper.

A 102mm is a 686, I thought you already had that? If you want to up compression you will feel a power boost. It wont be as much as installing the 11:1 in a stock motor, but a 12:1 will give you more low and midrange. Thats race gas territory too btw in case you didnt already know. Personally I dont think a 12:1 upgrade is worth it if your top end doesnt need a refresh. I'd just run the 11:1 till she needs some attention and then install a 12:1. There are 13 and 14:1 raptor pistons availible as well.

 

yea i know all the 101 101.5 and 102 i dont know what made u think that i didnt??

Anyways i just want more power i want to be able to run with the highly modded yfz's. i want to get up around the 60 hp range and i dont know how to do it i thought that the compression would do the trick but the way your talkin about it i guess not. what do i need to do to get more hp. there was a YFZ at sahara that would beat me and it really pisses me off that i spend all this money on mine and it wont even hang with what appears to be a piped and YFZ. what can i do to get up to 60 hp

 

If you can afford the Ti rod, get it. The guys that are telling you different have never felt the weight difference between a CrMo and a Ti rod. The new Corvette Z06 is coming with Ti rods and GM isn't known to "waste" money on their flagship sports car.

I didn't see head porting on your list. If you can't afford head porting, don't do a big bore. You can get more out of a ported 686 than you can out of a non-ported big bore. You'll need a new clutch. Spend the money on a Hinson 6 spring, it's bulletproof. You'll need to have the rotating assembly balanced, don't skip that "option". If you are building a drag Raptor, you'll also need a new CDI to raise the rev limit. There are other options that I would choose if money isn't tight like heat and friction coatings, cryo treating, and larger head bolts. They aren't mandatory but if you've got the coin, they help your engine live longer.

 

i got a gyt-r clutch kit with basket and pressure plate after i got my 686 11:1 i needed it because it slipped so bad now it hasnt slipped not once.

well u see i was told by someone on here not to get an aftermarket CDI because i got 11:1 on a stock rod and they also said im askin for trouble with the stock rod

i already have had it ported when i got my motor work done the first time

 

Kenz is using CP as well. I have one in mine.

 

i just want more power and need to know how to get it or where to get it

 

You would see quite a difference in top end performance if you went to the LTE dual exhaust system.I switched to a 12.5:1 piston from a 11:1 and the difference from that alone was considerable.You probably already know this but proper gearing and tire choice can gain you quite a few lengths worth of advantage in a race.I am curious as to what octane level fuel you run with your 11:1 piston?From what i have seen a 727 isnt always faster than a properly set up 690 so tweaking what you have may be an option with the exception of increasing your compression.I run the stock carbs with my 690 and my LTE exhaust and it is very fast with only a very few four strokes being just slightly faster but if a lighter rider than myself (230 lbs)was on board i would be as fast as any that i have come across.My reference to the performance of my 690 is not to brag but to point out that you can be very fast with the stock carbs if jetted properly and if you run the right fuel for your compression.

 

When capt bags had his bike done not too long ago Kenz was using only JE, so I assumed they probably still were. Thanks for updating me.

Austin, I didnt say you didnt know the bore sizes. But when you are talking about a 727 kit and then all of the sudden mention a 102mm, I just wanted to make sure we were on the same page and that we both knew you were just upping compression on your current bore.

With a ported 686 you should be approaching 60hp, at least mid to upper 50's. But, I know of aggressive build 686 raptors that made less than 50, so setup is crucial. You should be able to beat cam modded and piped yfzs, but I can see you getting beaten by high compression and big bore/stroker builds. It depends on what you consider "highly tuned" yfzs. If we are talking stock bore 13.5:1 compression you can proabably build on your current setup. If you are talking 65hp yfz's then you may need to look into a bigger build like a 727 or a much more wild 686.

 

well im running a 12/43 sprocket setup could that kill my hp? ON the dyno it made 45 horse and those numbers were kinda depressing i thougth at least 50. i got to lookin at the guy with the 50,000 dollar raptor and hes not much ahead of me and he is puttin out 63 horse i just dont under stand what the hell is going on

ok heres what usually happens im running my 20x10x10 Extreme Haulers, when i take off it starts to wheelie and when i get it back to earth im not too fat behind but when i hit 3rd gear i start suckin ppl up fast like some banshees and other 250rs. im serious when i say i out ran most of the non drag banshees at little sahara but when i looked down the line there were always about 1 or two yfzs ahead of me i watched them race its like they never wheelie. my buddy has one with a K&N pro flow no lid hmf and runs it on hi-octain gas and i can just run off and leave him on the conerete. Unless my gearing is just taking away from my hp then i have no clue, i havnt tryed anything geared higher since the build. with my gearing it pulls like a cr500. i mean besides a top speed of 63 i dont know why im not smokin serious butt after having as much time and money invested in it.

i put it to you like this if they would give me a rolling start i would beat the yfz's every time hands down

 

you can get 60hp out of a 686