what i thought.

 

some people just don't understand...it's like replacing your muffler bearings.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

If you guys are losing to predators on raptors, stock or not, then you don't know how to ride, trade them in and get a honda and quit giving us bad reps.

 

bwahhhhaahah muffler bearings!!

 

I'd say get rid of them both and get a yfz ;-)

 

Let me teach you so called know it alls a valuable lesson. The float levels do much, much more than just controlling the level in the carb. The level of the fuel affects the whole RPM range. To low and in causes the whole RPM range to run lean. To high and the whole RPM range is rich. Not only does the high level causes rich condition it also cause poor fuel atomization and heavy fuel droplets. This in turn cause poor combustion and loss in power. Next time you open your mouth, get your facts straight. If you like, I will send you a technical article about how a carb really works.

Then for you that don't know I have access to 3 different dynos. On all 3 dynos a stock raptor shows 3HP gain after setting the float levels lower. This is without touching or changing a single jet. Stock HP jumps from around 36HP to around 39HP. Then while adding HP it also extends the RPM range and give you more usable RPM where the HP stays up, instead of dropping. Usually a stocker will have HP drop just after 6000 RPM. With the float set right, you gain 500 to 700 RPM, before the HP drops big time. This means you can change 500 to 700 RPM later per gear. Excellent of picking up acceleration times for drag and also give you a few more miles per hour top speed. On 300ft drags this is about a bikes length you gain. The fuel level is suppose to be at 3mm above the split. The way they ship from the factory is around 6mm. Way to rich and very poor fuel atomization.

I have proven this on about 10 different raptors, all gain massive performance advantage and acceleration purely by adjusting the float levels.

So, if you don't want to do it, fine, believe your own pathetic explanations. For those of you who like to try it, please do and report back. If done right your raptor will gain very quick throttle response, and a real noticeable power increase. You don't need a dyno to feel this.

Please report back so some people might learn something! If you like to know how to do this correctly. I have a step by step explanation that will show you exactly how. It also contains report backs from guys that tried it and loved the results!

Then, 450's can go sleep. With full pipe (CT or Sparks), no airbox, jet kit, K&N and the carb mod, raptors push out 47 to 49HP on the dynos I use. YFZ450, push around 47HP on the same dyno and DS650's with the same mods as what I mention on the raptor is making around 42HP. For a 450 to keep up and beat the raptors with the mods I mention above, you need a 13:1 pistons, full pipe, cam mod, gas flowed head, and someone that knows how to set the carb correctly. If not, you beat them 2 to 3 bike length guaranteed on 300ft drags.

I also can send the dyno runs of these quads if you like.

 

FReez, it's clear you have had alot of something thrown at you, the reason your gaining a little hp if any is because of starvation threw your carb, the float levels don't add hp performance when levels are adjusted right. Like I said earlier, they will either starve it or fill it over the cup. your better off adjusting the jets and needle and get the same results on your test, and I'm sure they were played with as well. Make since?

 

And as for your quote...Stock for stock at 4500 above sea level a raptor is pounded in a drag race going up sound mountain in NV all day long against a stock preddy. I have been riding 3 and 4 wheelers longer than most been chewing on candy bars, what I'm trying to tell you I ride and can ride hard and have the plastic chrome and gold to prove it. I know that hurts alot of you out their that has rappy's, but I see it all the time, yes if you want to put kits to beef them up yes they can dollar for dollar pound a preddy easy. Now if your so positive your so good, I would take my buddies stock preddy and let you race my wifes stock rappy and would give 10 shots at beating me and you would lose all ten, your money and pride lost. Guys I see it all the time, yes rider has a little to do with it but you can be a average jokey riding on a stud and win over a fantastic jokey on a average stud understand?

 

huskerjim, I actually don't have a clue where you get your info from, but you obviously have no clue what effect a float level has on the performance. Like I said, it effects the way the emulsion tube break down the fuel and mix it with the air. With the high fuel level the droplets are way too big and falls out during the intake process and create poor mixtures. Fix the mixture problem and get the fuel to atomize better and you gain power. No amount of jetting will do this for you! That is a fact! Now if you have any experience with 2 strokes you will know how critical fuel levels are. According to your school, float levels can be a few mm out. It does not matter. On 2 strokes a single mm out will effect the performance big time and make the bike stutter and run very badly. 2 strokes are way more sensitive to fuel mixtures. The point I am trying to make is that fuel drop out and bad mixtures are there, but 4 strokes are not so sensitive that they will stutter and spit with small carb tuning mistakes. They however loose power. Why in heavens name will Yamaha and other manufacturers put so much emphasis on setting the level to the EXACT specification they provide. Why do carb manufacturers go out of their way to make floats that you can adjust if it was not so critical? If they followed your train of thought it does not really matter, so long as it is more or less. Just maybe they make them like that and spend the time setting them, because there is a damn good reason for it.

They recommend a deviance of less than a single mm. It is that critical! If you read any service manual the very 1st thing they all say is to set the float levels before doing any jetting. If you don't you will mess up the whole fuel delivery of the carb. On 4 stroke you do not feel the effect of the float level so much, but the way a stock raptor is set up it is WAY WRONG! It is more than 3mm out! Something unheard of in anyone’s book. On stock raptors the dyno shows 3HP purely by adjusting the floats. A jet change does something similar if it is out of spec, but if you do that float level mod to a jetted raptor you also see the 3HP gain. So your theory about jets fixing all your problems is incorrect.

I wish you would stop arguing with me and follow the instructions I sent you, before you comment about the advice. What do you have to loose? I am not some snot nose kid and I specialise in getting the performance out of raptors where other people fail.

One of my biggest fans is a guy that had been racing raptors for year. He followed my advice and applied it to a modified race raptor. He got very good gains and cannot stop raving about it. Read the link I sent you, it's all there.

Ever wonder how Sparks , Craycraft and the other pro's get their raptors to fly like they do. Simple Attention to detail and the carbs are one of these details you are about to overlook.

I am actually not posting anything further. You try and help a fellow guy and they slap it back at you. I do take it personal, because you come to me with no facts, no dyno proof and anything concrete to prove your point, while I spent ages sorting this out and trying to figure out how to make a raptor run properly.

Please go ahead and spread your train of thought. It makes it so much easier for others like me or smaller quads to make and @ss out of you in the drags.

 

Freez, we all get big kicks out people like you that's what makes the world go round. Hey lifes to short take your ziac and relax, and freez, have a nice day.