I posed this question to my Suzuki dealer. I was told any SAE/API 10w40 could be used. On my next oil change, I plan on using synthetic blend. Looking forward to my quad running a little cooler[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

If your motor and clutch use the same oil, you are going to want to avoid the oils with friction modifiers.
Yes, you can use automotive oils, but they'd better be friction modifier free to be on the safe side.

BTW rescue diver;
Why the heck am I not allowed to post a link to a thread in another website if it is in the interest of sharing knowledge??

 

I've never had a problem linking a site to the forum. PM me the site and let me see what's up

I also agree on the friction part of your reply. From what I heard, that's where clutch slippage occurs[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

Really what is the advantage of running synthetic? Longer oil changes. It doesn't do anything special over regular oil. You don't run cooler or faster or anything. It just won't break down as fast but for most people if you change your oil when listed in the manual the regular oil isn't even close to breaking down. Has anyone ever had a problem of using just regular oil verse the synthetic? I want real world results not labratory...U know I think really for most people its a waste of money. As long as you use what the manual requires for oil and change at the intervals listed in the manual you should be in the best of shape. JMO

 

For answers to your oil questions....check out bobistheoilguy.com. Their forums have all kinds of qustions relating to oil....synthetic or dino.

 

I think conventional and synthetic motor oil differ slightly in viscosity. I know that I used to run 20W50 conventional in my '87 Monte Carlo SS but when I switched to synthetic, I was told to run 10W40. Just relaying what I was told.

 

The reason that people use synthetic oil is primarily because it is an advanced lubricant as compared to conventional oil. For starters it will run under the most extreme conditions and have less degradation for longer periods of time. It is high temperature resistant and it has superior pour ability and operability in severe cold temperatures. Synthetic oil gives an edge up on protection because it is more consistent to the correct specification in extreme temperatures be it hot or cold. Cold weather start-up is harmful to engines with conventional oil because it will not flow as well, the oil would be in an altered state. On the flip side since the synthetic is not affected nearly as much to the cold it will provide much better flow and lubricate at a rate closely matching the spec weight

Some people may question why use synthetic? The answer is simple, synthetic oil better protects the life of the engine. This is why the most advanced engine manufactures require its use. Airplanes, military equipment, chillers, generators, eighteen wheelers, some BMW models, Corvettes, some Dodge models, and others are among the many that demand it be the only type used.

Oil viscosity is not changed by the fact that the oil is synthetic or conventional. If a machine spec is API-SE/ 20-W40, then the oil to be used is just that, 20-W40. Other requirements to look for may be to avoid anti-friction modifiers, or the use of oils listed as energy conserving

The weight refers to the oils’ resistance to movement at a given temperature. API has a standard for measurement of oil weights. Whether the product is conventional or synthetic, the oil will have the same resistance to movement at the given temperatures set forth by the Institute as the specification, or it will not carry the API authorized seal.

The letter “S” designates that the oil is manufactured for gasoline engines. The letter after the “S” is the generation group. The first batches of oil under the API seal started off as generation SA, when the next generation of oil came out it was listed as SB and then so on, again and again. API has now issued some Mobil One oils as API spec SM. The SM is roughly thirteen generations farther advanced than the original SA lubricants. An oil requirement for the use of type SH will be better protected if a SM product is used, but if the requirement is for type SM then type SH will not meet the requirement.

It is a misnomer that an engine can not be “broken in” if synthetic oil is used on its virgin fill. If it were the case then the oil could not carry the API seal. There are too many manufactures that exclusively use it for the original OEM required factory fill to lay any truth to that statement.

I am not against people using conventional oil by any means. If a person would like to use particular oil over another, then please have it. The machine is yours do with it what you will. Far be it from me to demand his use of any product.

 

Vakero, That was a mouth full[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Thanks for the indepth explanations[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Vakero , you seem to really know your stuff. I'm having my grizzly,s top end done piston etc. What oil would you reccomend for breaking in and how many miles before 1st. oil change?

 

Personaly I use YamaLube 20W40 in our 2003 Grizz. I use it for no other reason but that I have been too lazy to find out it there is a better prouduct available. As far as the first change, I would break in the motor and change the oil exactly as if it were a new motor. Our manual recommends 20 hours for the break in change. I would also check the valves at that time as well.