I have read all over and I see lots of scenarios and posible solutions but I have never read a post that had an answer.

My problem is , my bike starts fine idles fine if I crack the throttle open ( in neutral ) and it wants to stall. If I am going down the road and just drive at a normal pace ( slow roll on the throttle) its fine, If I get on it I will get to half throttle and it will cut off, if I let up and hit it again it will go. If I am rolling up to a hill under throttle , and let off a little bit to feel the hill out and start up the hill and give it some throttle it will cut out almost making it impossible to climb a hill.

I just bought the quad a little while ago and I'm not familiar with wolvies , Its a 95 with the 36mm carb on it. It has a supertrap IDS2 slip-on , 10 3/4" holes in the air box , a foam air filter , it has a 132.5 main in it , air fuel screw I have tried from 1 to 2.5 turns out and did not clean up.

I thought it might be starving for fuel and I put a 150 in and it sputtered throughout all the gears.

I haven't done a plug chop.

Also when I put the 150 in I started it and had fuel spitting out the horn so I knew ahead of time it was going to be rich but I tried it anyway.

Please I need a solid answer on this.

Thanks ahead of time,

Mike

 

sounds like the natorious rev limiter.

 

Is their a way to bypass the rev limiter?

 

The 95 Wolverine didn't have a parking brake rev limiter, that was put in the 96 and up models after Yamaha found a lot of riders were frying the rotors and pads riding with the parking brake on. I know, I cooked mine but good going a couple of miles down a trail, smelled the rubber seals burning before I realized what I did, needed a new rotor, caliper and pads. Your carb problem is very likely the accelerator pump spring, if you take the plastic cover off the side of your carb, you will see an arm going to the right to a rod with a rubber boot on it. If the rod is stuck down, there is your problem, with no shot of fuel from the pump rod, you bog out bad until the engine vacuum can pull more fuel in on the top end. Pull the carb, remove the bowl, make sure the tube the rod goes into is clean and the rod moves without catching,or polish it with some steel wool to make it smooth. The factory spring that holds it up is extremely weak, but I found a click type ink pen spring is the exact same size, and is much stronger, just drop it in, and you should be set to go, just give the inside of the carb a good cleaning while it is apart. The 96 on up use a 34mm CV carb, it gives good throttle response, but the old 95 carb will give you a bit more power and top end.

 

I read on a post before about the spring and when I pulled it apart the accelerator pump was stuck down.

I replaced the cheapo spring with a bic spring and it seemed to be OK.

I'll pull the rod out and polish it, maybe it is still hanging up.

Thanks so far,

Mike

BTW , I was thinking about getting a torque stuffer but isn't that the same thing they put in the little quads as a exhaust restrictor?

I would think you would get a pretty good power drop.

 

The torque stuffer is set up to be a resonance inverter, in other words, at low rpms, it acts like a smaller pipe,which gives you more low end, but as the exhaust flow increases, the flared end keeps the reflected exhaust pressure pulses from going back into the exhaust port, so it is supposed to help speed up the flow out, like you would get with a bigger pipe. That way you are supposed to get the bottom end grunt without losing top end, while a big pipe would give good top end at the expense of poor low end performance.
As far as your carb, have you tried going down on the main jet? 150 sounds pretty big, even with a modded air box and pipe. I would try a 142.5 or 145 and try that out, sputtering when revving it out usually means you are too rich, pulling the plug will tell you where you are.

 

OK, Accelerator pump is working fine, I took the side cover off and worked the throttle and it moves up and down just fine.

From my experiance if you get a void in the throttle that would mean you need more fuel, and if it sputters you have too much fuel . Am I correct ?

On deceleration it doesn't pop so I'm not leaning towards a pilot.

I'm thinking of just buying a jet kit and hope for the best.

The shop around the corner from me has a moose kit for 59.95 Stage 1 (Dyno jet) , but I looked up a K&N and they only want 44.00 for theirs aren't they Dyno-Jets also ? Or do you think the jet kits are a ripoff ?

 

I've seen many posts stating the jet kit is a waste of money for the Wolv. You can buy a jet for $5 - $7 at most non-OEM shops.

The 132.5 to a 150 change was a HUGE jump.

I agree with 95Wolv on trying the 142.5 or 145.

Once you feel your main jet is correct at Wide-Open-Throttle, confirm with the plug-chop.

If you still have the bog...have you checked to see if the accelerator pump is giving a good consistent squirt of fuel while steadily advancing the throttle? My 2001 doesn't have the pump, so I don't know the exact inner workings. If you aren't getting a consistent squirt of fuel, maybe one of the 95 Wolvy or Warrior guys can give you more info.