Here it is, at least a year since Procom launched thier line of atv products. And just like day one, the picture they have of the Raptor 660 is a picture of the Raptor 80. I mentioned it on the boards when their website was put up and people were asking about them. I'm amazed they havent changed it, it was shocking enough they got it wrong to begin with. Do any of you really want to buy a product that controls every function of your atv from a company that cant tell the difference between a kids 80cc quad and what was once the largest displacement sport atv ever availible the raptor 660?

Just another instance of corporate hilarity I found entertaining and thought I'd share with the group.

 

The one thing that amazes me is the people that buy overrev devices not realizing their engine cannot utilize the additional rpm's anyway.

 

How very true.

 

Yeah I guess your somewhat right on your overrev theory in some respects, However your comment doesn't really pretain to procom as they make hi performance voltage regulators which cut the field of voltage to the alternator when the procom regulator determines there is no needed voltage current to the battery which frees up the magnetic alternator drag for the engine. Procom also makes a battery current stabilizer known as the Magic box, and many other electronic performance pieces which include yes, a hi-rev cdi box as ONE of their parts. Thanks.

 

Hey maddog, What is that blue button on your raptor in your photo page????

 

Manual decompression mechanism, I ditched the weights, springs, and decomp pin from my camshaft and gear.

Procom does make a few other products. I'm not sold on the performance of the aftermarket regulators, I have yet to hear from anyone testing them out for an extended period of time or making any before and after dyno runs. As for the CDI's some offer timing advances in the lower rpms for more low end power but there have been significant kickback issues on the raptor and ds 650 that apparently have not been fixed. I wasnt planning on getting into a debate on the performance of their products, but IMO they have not been proven and results are lackluster at best.

 

Thats cool about procom anyways, I hear ya. So lets talk more about ditching the wieghts etc. from the cam that go to the decommression valve because I am all for losing weight on that stuff. Now I am going with a Hotcams Stage 2 cam and HD valvespring kit out of the box from ebay. Lets try not to get into why I chose Hotcams blah blah if we can help it, I've done the research, thanks anyways. So can I get rid of all that decompession crap with this cam and what is the technical process. Is it easy to do what you did or a pain in the butt, is it expensive. Are there any risks and do I need to absolutely decompress the cylinder on every start if I have this button, what exactly does that button do and is there a chance of that little bugger gettin blowed out. Why not bypass the decompession all together is it really that important. Yes I have the after market LA designs heavy duty starter stuff. Thanks man.

 

I didnt actually complete the process myself my builder had my motor to install a new cam and valves anway but I'll share what I know. From what I understand its not a big deal to remove the springs and clips from the cam gear. I'm not sure what you'd need to do with the cam and whether you'd need to fill the hole used for the stock decompression mechanism, I believe you will have to. I used a megacycle cam (IMO far superior to the hotcams) which didnt come with the decomp hole. As for the mechanism you can see by my pic that you will have to drill a hole into the jug and clearance the cooling fins for the button. There is no risk of "blowing it out" and its a far more reliable system than the stock setup. You need to push the button each time before you start the atv and it automatically kicks out after a few revolutions when the bike is started. Its certainly possible to not push the button and start the bike but then its just like having no decompression at all. The battery and one way have to work harder to start the engine and even with the upgraded L&A one way its still putting a good deal of strain on it and shortening its lifespan. This isnt a serious problem with the stock 9.2:1 compression but even with a pump gas 11:1 like I have its taxing on the oneway and battery. I would strongly suggest some type of decompression for any high compression setup. The manual button is originally made for harley bikes but it works great on the raptor. I'll try to answer any other questions you have but if you need the details and part numbers get a hold of Tim Barker (website is www.barkersbars.com) and he can fill you in on everything you'll need to know above and beyond what I can tell you. I believe craycraft does these as well as other members here have a similar setup.