Ok never had a prob. with the charging system on my 04 660 Griz til I was on the Hatfield -McCoy trail in Gilbert WV. I still rode from Thurs. til Sat. Well this is what happenned We were riding Thurs. afternoon, we stopped a couple of times on the trail to see the sights and I went to start the big Griz up and she just wanted to keep sleeping, it did start right up with the recoil. It took me a while to realize, if I left the lights off it would start with the battery.Well, on Fri. morn we made a trip to the NAPA care center in town they were very nice and sent out their specialist . He said he figured it was just the battery, soooo I went to the ATV store in town they were also very nice people, and sold me a battery yahoo! I thought I had this prob. whipped. We got back to camp on Fri. afternoon and filled the battery per instructions minus charging it. The person at the atv shop said it would charge as I rode it . Ok, now we rode for a while that evening and BBBBBRRRRGGGGTT! Guess what? Thats right not starting again, again it would pull start, sooooo I finished out the ride thru til Sat afternoon riding without lights. When we got back home in NY on sunday I took my own tester and here is the results I got, Battery not running 12.53 volts
12.59 running-( this should be 13.50 to 14.50 &gt[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
12.11 running lights on
12.27 high idle lights on
14.00 high idle lights off.
So i got into my Griz manual( CD Thanks to Andy Bassham.)I did some checks per manaul in section 9-25. The stator check seems to be ok the the measurement is supposed to be 0.32 to 0.43 mine was actually on one side 0.4 and the other side 0.5 I was told at a local ATV shop that those readings should be ok . The manual then says to check all connections and wires on charging sys. wow I am pretty sure I got them all and they look ok.The last step says replace Rectifier/ Regulator , and there is no way of testing that component .I really hope that is the prob. It is $91 I can swing that vs the stator @ $229. Has anyone had this type of prob with a griz or other makes? Thank you in advance for your replies. OGGY D[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

I brought this back to top of page . I just dont want it to dissappear yet.

 

no help,but i'm just amazed you were able to use the pull start,,,,did you rip open a can of Spinach,and swollow it down in a single chomp right before you tried it?

 

I know thats is funny YUKKK! YUKKK!. When the motor is warmed up I can actually start it with one arm , But this morning when I was retesting I gave her a good ole fashion two handed tug and just about gave the seat a tongue lashin' a couple tugs later she was running.I know I probably wont get too much input on this topic ,cause I have never had a charging prob. with any of my previous three wheelers or quads. I dont think this happens too often, most of the time you just replace the old weak battery.Hey PHART I see your from WV. did you ride in the Hatfield -McCoy Trailfest , dispite my probs. we had a great time.We are already talking about next year. Also your GRIZ sounds HOT!

 

Im thinking your regulator is working just fine. If it gets to 14 volts on high idle. Its supposed to get no higher than 15.5 ever, and it should be over 12.5 .
Next time it wont crank on its own power, try to jump start it with another battery. Make sure if you use the battery in your car or truck, that the motor is not running while jumping. The alternator of cars and trucks will bump the voltage up higher than the quad can tolerate.
If you leave the voltmeter hooked up while cranking...what does it read? If it drops below 10 volts, its not good, and needs to be load tested.
If it jump starts fine, then you might want to have the battery load tested.
If jumping doesnt help, then check for corrosion on the connections, and if the wiring looks fine...id suspect the starter motor.

As an alternative to pulling the rope...did you know you can bump start the ultramatic yamis? Just leave it in high, turn on the key, and have someone pull it with a tow strap. Itll start before you get 20 feet. You only have to pull about 7mph and itll start.
Let us know what you find.

 

Honda buster shouldnt it be over 12.59 volts running with lights off ? I checked the volts on a a-cat 650 running with lights off and got 14.50+ , with lights on running 12.70 and high idle lights on 14.70+ .I know the a-cat is a v-twin but volts is volts and comparing my#s to that and my griz cd I feel I have a serious prob. Also in the Griz CD it states I should have 14 volts at 1000rpms and im not meeting that requirement. Learning as I go.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

It probably should be ...but your ohms on the stator are a bit off, and that might account for it.
If it hits 14. volts or higher at 5000 rpm, it should be good. Stators are different than an alternator, they arent cycled by a field wire, they are always on, and always putting out max effort. Stators relie on rpms to hit the higher volts. I figured that with it hitting over 14 volts no load..the stator and regulater are good.
Is the system totally stock...or is there handwarmers or lights or winch?
Id suspect a defective battery, until its proven to be good with a load test.

 

no extra lights,or hand warmers,the winch power has been unhooked since last thursday, the dealer mechanic tells me if the winch solenoid was shorting the winch would be going in or out.the system is stock. I am hitting 14 volts at I should say a super high idle.thanx

 

WOW I had to dig this off of page 13 .Well hondabuster you were right, after installing a new rec/reg , there was no diff. in voltage. I got the manual out and got to the stator of course I could not see anything physically wrong with it but the #s are off as I stated in my topic, they are supposed to be on the stator resistance between .32 -. 43 ohms and I got .4 and .5 on the two test spots, when the engine is warm I get .5 and.6 ,Could the resistance be too high with those #s ? Before I got into the engine case I checked the pick up coil resistance its to be between 459 and 561 , when the engine was warm it was well above those #s when it cooled down it did go down to around 549.The rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance is to be between .063-.077 I got .001 could any of these be the problem ? The last one has me worried. The quad starts right up , the new battery was load tested as well as the old one, and they are good. The last time I started it I could get it to 13.50 and then it would start to drop as I was revving up and down as if it was getting worse. $$$$$ [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

Im gonna have to think about this abit.
The new battery has been load tested and is good?
The connections to the battery are clean, shiney and tight? If you can, buff up the wire connectors with a wire brush or file, or emory cloth, and make sure the oxidized layer is off of it. It should look new and shiney where it touches the battery posts.
That regulator needs a good ground too, make sure the wire connector going to it, looks good, and not crusty or dirty on the pins.
Does the battery go dead...or just doesnt have enough to pull the starter load?
Hook up the voltmeter, across the battery terminals, and watch the voltage while holding the starter button, (trying to start it). What does it drop to?

rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance is to be between .063-.077 I got .001 could any of these be the problem ? Im not sure. I know that the specs are for 68 degrees F, and will vary by temperature, as youve found out, but im not sure that would cause a charging or starter not working problem.

When the motor is running and lights on, and at idle...does the voltage drop below the standing voltage (key off voltage)?
Then when you rev it up...the volts climb, but then drop off?