I want to pipe and jet my Raptor but I only want to do it the most efficient way, by that I mean I want to do it once and not have to worry about it. Every "Jetting" thread I came up with in the search feature was pretty much just about "how to jet" Not whats the most reliable. I'm not too fond of the removed airbox lid and will probably end up going with a K&N filter. I will be purchasing the Fat pipe Header with matching exhaust (I believe its DG) and like I said the K&N. Am I asking for the impossible or is it possible to tune your combination so that you dont have to worry about it all the time. I've read story's about how people are constantly changing jets and needle positions? Is this nessasary when you add an exhaust kit? I had a White Bros slip-on on my KFX 400 and I swear when I brought it in for the shop to do the work (pipe/jet) they just slid the pipe on and sent me on my way! It did feel a little different but I'm not sure if it was a loss of top end because of the pipe or what. I sold the bike and now have the Rappy and want to make sure everything is done right with it and I really want to do the work myself. If theres a question in here I beg of you to answer it. What do you think? As far as performance mods go a pipe and filter is really all I'm interested in!

 

Whoa...that's allot to take in. I'm reading between the lines here a bit too, but it sounds like you are going to add your mods, know you will need to rejet, but only want to do it once. If that's right, then I would recommend a couple of things.

First, when you get your pipe and header, you should also get "recommended" jetting instructions along with airbox and filter mod recommendations. This makes since because if you are opening up the exhaust, you also have to open up the intake to take advantage of it. The jetting is the hard part, because it's not an exact science, at least if you're doing it from your garage. You will in all likelyhood have to tweek that to get it right, and maybe change the jets a couple of times. I don't think there's anyone on this site that can say exactly what jets and mixtures you will need with your mods. They can probably get you real close though. At the bottom of this page is some good information on piping and jetting the Raptor, if you haven't seen it...it's legendary from what I understand.

My other suggestion, if you only want to do it once, is to dyno tune it. Not sure if anyone out your way has the facilities to do that, but they can set the jetting up for optimum HP, and also check exhaust outputs to make sure your mixtures (fuel/air) are right. Once that is done, you shouldn't have to mess with it unless you drastically change altitude or make additional modifications to the intake or exhaust.

Here is some additional info on dyno tuning...

Hope this helps a bit.

 

Just from my experience and reading on the forum, unless you are going to go in and do some serious mods to your motor, you don't need to buy a new header. The stock Raptor header is pretty good. If you're just going to install a pipe and leave your airbox stock you may not have to re-jet at all. The problem with puting on a new pipe and not opening up the airbox is you are still allowing the same amount of air into the motor so you're not getting the full potential out of the pipe. But because you are going to a less restrictive air filter, that may be the differance between re-jetting and not.
Like the boppersaid, there are a lot of factors involved in jetting like temperature, altitude etc. I'm not positive, but I think gearing and tire size may play a factor as well.

To answer your last question, if you're going to pay the money for a new pipe, get an adaptor for your air filter and take the lid off the air box and rejet the carbs. It's the only way you are going to see the full potential of your system.

 

First off! I did not expect anyone to respond to my post let alone understand it. Thanks guys for your input! That makes alot of sense to me. That Dyno tune sounds great but I doubt I have one at my disposal. Where I've never made any kind of adjustments to a bike before should I just install the slip on myself and bring it into the shop for them to perform the jetting. or will that be a waste of money because of the whole trial and error part of rejetting? It sounds like I could perform the job in my garage but test trials is going to be a pain between trailering the bike somewhere just to test and bringing it back because it's not right over and over again.

 

Installing the slip-on is easy, as is doing the airbox mods. Rejetting, from what I understand, isn't hard, but does required a bit more work. Might be a good strategy to do all the mods, then let them do the jetting. A good shop should be able to do the CO2/O2 analysis to tell if the fuel/air mixtures are right, so there wouldn't be trial and error.

Of course, like I said earlier, you can probably get very close yourself just based on the information you've already provided.

 

Once you get your jetting right, you shouldn't have to mess with it again unless there's a drastic change in altitude or temp. I've run same jets all year around here, and it gets over 100 in the summer and below zero in the winter. I probably could have squeezed out a few more ponies by re-jetting but, I'd rather not mess with it that often.
Dyno tuning is the best way to go. I haven't done it yet, and I have it so close right now that I probably won't. Get the recommendations from the manufactuer, and go from there. I think the end result will be pleasing enough to consider the couple hours in the garage time well spent. You may just get it right the first time. I got it pretty good on the second jet.

 

Webopper That sounds like a plan especially because there is really only 1 shop on the island I live on and that alone equals big$$$$$$$$$

Sparky! Your speaking my launguage bud! thats exactly how I feel about the whole jetting thing. The Raptor is plenty fast for me I just wish to help it breathe a little better and free it up. I live at sea level and probably go to about 1,000ft alt max and thats pushing it, As far as temp goes: Summer is usually 68-78 with the occasional 80-85 and winters are a consistant 25-45. So really I only need a basic tune and I should be good to go. We'll see.

Just ordered my Roll Design IMS Shifter Pro Level. as well as Tag bars.. cant wait to get-em.

 

If you want to do it right the first time with the least chance of problems I would do this:
Adjust the float level using the clear tube method. Very important.
Use the GYT-R jet kit. 160/165 mains, 25 pilots, needle in the middle and 2 3/4 turns out on the mix screws.
Get the Pro Flow adapter with the K&N, the stock mounting system for the filter SUCKS.
Remove the flaps in the snorkle if your going to use the lid and snorkle. If not you'll need to go with 155/160 mains or smaller.

Why are you getting a DG exhaust?

 

I'm not sold on it yet. I've been doing a little more research since that was said and I'm probably going to go with something else!

What is the "clear tube method"

 

Clear tube method
As far as pipes I like my Yoshi, it retains the stock heat shields, performs well. But Sparks is a good one to.