HOW TO MAKE MY BLASTER FASTER
#21
I've got a customer looking to make his blaster faster. I recomended dropping to a 38/39T rear sprocket and piping it for starters. he's on a tight budget so a couple hundred is all he's looking to spend. Thanks.
#22
OUT of these two modfications, which will give me more speed, accel, and power.
New 35mm prejetted carbreuator, or a new FMF FATTY PIPE AND EXHUAST.
Which will give me more speed accel and power.
-35mm prejetted carb,
-FMF fatty pipe and exhaust
New 35mm prejetted carbreuator, or a new FMF FATTY PIPE AND EXHUAST.
Which will give me more speed accel and power.
-35mm prejetted carb,
-FMF fatty pipe and exhaust
#23
If you haven't done anything to the motor, the carb really won't help much. A stock Blaster won't take advantage of that big of carb.
If you lighten the flywheel, you will loose bootom end. It will however, rev quicker. You will have to either change gears more, or slip the clutch alot more, to keep it up in the revs. Let it bog down and it will bog as fast as it will rev. For some, this is not a problem, but others will hate it. It all depends on riding style.
Alot of these guys have told you some good advise. I for one would start with a good pipe. (LRD is probably the best overall) Suspension, then reed valves / reeds, carb, and then port job and higher compression. Then if more is desired, I'd go with a stroker crank over the 240 kit. Seems like those strokers run ALOT better than the 240's.
If you lighten the flywheel, you will loose bootom end. It will however, rev quicker. You will have to either change gears more, or slip the clutch alot more, to keep it up in the revs. Let it bog down and it will bog as fast as it will rev. For some, this is not a problem, but others will hate it. It all depends on riding style.
Alot of these guys have told you some good advise. I for one would start with a good pipe. (LRD is probably the best overall) Suspension, then reed valves / reeds, carb, and then port job and higher compression. Then if more is desired, I'd go with a stroker crank over the 240 kit. Seems like those strokers run ALOT better than the 240's.
#24
instead of getting the 240cc kit from trenga, I am getting the DRI BLASTER HIGH REV Kit from DucanRacing: Includes: PTR High Rev Pipe, Fat Boy 2 Silencer, HIGH REV Porting & Stock Head ReChambering, Pyramid Reed Valves, Master Flow Intake Manifold, Pre-Jetted Keihin 35mm PWK Carburetor, Jet Kit, K & N Filter, Outerwear, Instructions, DR Tech Support,
· Price plus any necessary machining and or parts. Example: Boring, Gaskets, Piston, etc. are additional cost.
· Throttle and or throttle cable not included
Power Curve: High Rev (Top End Power Emphasis)
ducan racing
the following comes from the ducan racing site:
Air Box Upgrade Kit $195.00
Includes: TRX 250R Air Box, Air boot, adaptor hose, pipe and clamps, airbox ring, K&N Filter and outerwear
*Note: Minor sub frame and rear fender modification required.
Performance: 50% Upgrade over stock
Reliability: 85% of stock reliability
Notes:
1. The DRI/PTR Blaster NATIONAL kit is the absolute best buy for overall performance gain, reliability and value.
2. This kit stays with stock displacement to maintain the highest possible reliability. The size of this kit is not what makes it so appealing. It is the proven combination of the pipes, porting, reed cages, carbs etc. working together.
3. DRI National or High Rev kits offer better overall power without the reliability problems associated with 240cc big bore kits
IS the kit better than that 240.
And is the Paul turner pipes, good (PTR) with a fattboy silencer.
Also it only cost $1175
· Price plus any necessary machining and or parts. Example: Boring, Gaskets, Piston, etc. are additional cost.
· Throttle and or throttle cable not included
Power Curve: High Rev (Top End Power Emphasis)
ducan racing
the following comes from the ducan racing site:
Air Box Upgrade Kit $195.00
Includes: TRX 250R Air Box, Air boot, adaptor hose, pipe and clamps, airbox ring, K&N Filter and outerwear
*Note: Minor sub frame and rear fender modification required.
Performance: 50% Upgrade over stock
Reliability: 85% of stock reliability
Notes:
1. The DRI/PTR Blaster NATIONAL kit is the absolute best buy for overall performance gain, reliability and value.
2. This kit stays with stock displacement to maintain the highest possible reliability. The size of this kit is not what makes it so appealing. It is the proven combination of the pipes, porting, reed cages, carbs etc. working together.
3. DRI National or High Rev kits offer better overall power without the reliability problems associated with 240cc big bore kits
IS the kit better than that 240.
And is the Paul turner pipes, good (PTR) with a fattboy silencer.
Also it only cost $1175
#26
If you are looking for another cheap mod I have had good luck with the vito's degreed timing keyway. It just advances the timing a little and you can feel the power increase and spend 25 bucks.
#28
ok that ducan kit sucked, my friend had his on a blaster, and my blaster stock, and he barely beat me by half of a four weeler.
I am gettin something new.
This is what i am getting:
200cc 30HP Cylinder and head (trenga racing)
30mm pre jetted carb
reed spacer
LRD pipe and exhaust
With this modification, how far will i beat a stock blaster.
I am gettin something new.
This is what i am getting:
200cc 30HP Cylinder and head (trenga racing)
30mm pre jetted carb
reed spacer
LRD pipe and exhaust
With this modification, how far will i beat a stock blaster.
#29
if that guy with the duncan kit barely beat uyou then something isn't right on that quad...he should have smoked you...but even with that stuff you listed you will still beat a stock blaster by a lot...
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