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spark arestor.

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  #11  
Old 05-07-2006, 10:13 PM
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Default spark arestor.

That still doesn't make any sense. Adjusting the needle only changes 1/8-3/4 throttle mixture, so you'd still be just as lean at full throttle without changing the main jet.
 
  #12  
Old 05-07-2006, 10:22 PM
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Default spark arestor.

Your not goin to be as lean as to where your goin to burn a valve or anything like that being, lean is mean like everyone says the leaner the meaner. i dont beleive a machanic is goin to post that the main thing to do is just move the clip and then it not helping anything, if it was jetting up for the #1 thing to do they would say the #1 thing to do is jet up, no this thread said the main thing to do is move the clip. If you jet up your running way to ricj and your valves are goin to get build up on them seen a few z-400's like that and its not fun tearing it down to replace them or try to clean em, Machanics are their there for a reason and thats to keep bikes in the tip top condiditon.
 
  #13  
Old 05-07-2006, 10:32 PM
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Default spark arestor.

I'm not just pulling this stuff out of my @ss here, I have experience with it, not just stuff I read on other web sites like you. These bikes are jetted borderline lean from the factory so they can meet emissions requirements, just the small change is enough to push them over the edge to where they're too lean. You probably won't get burned valves or a hole in your piston, but it still causes excessive heat in an air cooled engine, which will accelerate wear and eventually break the engine down quicker.

Ok, kids, the moral to the story here is don't remove the spark arrestor, all it's good for is sounding like $hit and pissing off the neighbors.

That will be my final post in this thread.
 
  #14  
Old 05-07-2006, 10:41 PM
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Default spark arestor.

Originally posted by: recon99
I'm not just pulling this stuff out of my @ss here, I have experience with it, not just stuff I read on other web sites like you. These bikes are jetted borderline lean from the factory so they can meet emissions requirements, just the small change is enough to push them over the edge to where they're too lean. You probably won't get burned valves or a hole in your piston, but it still causes excessive heat in an air cooled engine, which will accelerate wear and eventually break the engine down quicker.

Ok, kids, the moral to the story here is don't remove the spark arrestor, all it's good for is sounding like $hit and pissing off the neighbors.

That will be my final post in this thread.
U would get along good in the bombardier guys they all say take the end cap out and there running 70hp bike 2 were your saying not to take it out running like 30 hp where im running about 54hp no end cap
 
  #15  
Old 05-08-2006, 07:02 PM
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Default spark arestor.

ok well thanx i talked to my dad and he sed when we bring it to get servised for the summer i can get a slip on.wut whould be the best to poot on a hmf? iv herd ther pritty nice for them. but idont knowi went from a blaster to this and i like this way beter but just wont to get mor power.
 
  #16  
Old 05-08-2006, 10:18 PM
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Default spark arestor.

Hmf is the best for bottom end power, yoshimura is the best for top end power. There's lots of other good ones out there, but those are the best in my opinion, and the hmf is the best bang for the buck for sure.
 
  #17  
Old 05-09-2006, 09:01 AM
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Default spark arestor.

If your gonna add on a slip on you'll have to re-jet too so while your rejetting add on a better air filter and take off the air box lid. As far as slip on's go I'm in the same boat as you (looking for one) I'm interested in either an HMF or a Yoshimura or maybbe a Pro-Circuit reduced noise pipe.
 
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