Hey everyone,
I just picked up a 2003 Wolverine...it's quite a difference from my 1985 200X! It needs a few things here and there, but came with a Warn 424 and an FMF Megamax exhaust.

1) It takes a bit of effort to upshift this. Downshifting isn't too bad, but upshifiting takes a bit of foot effort. Is this common on this machine since it has an autoclutch?

2) I can shift right into reverse without using the ****. I tried adjusting the cable, but it'll go right into reverse just by down shifting. Is there anything that can be done about this? It's hard to find neutral since it just goes right into reverse.

3) The neutral light on the pod doesn't work. The reverse light works, but not the neutral. Any fix for this or wires that should be checked?

Thanks in advance.

 

I just picked up a 2004 Wolverine last month brand new from the dealership( totally fluked out!!!). The upshifting on it and every other Wolvy I've ridden is the same: a stiff pain in the @$$. My girlfriend has to put her entire midget foot under the shifter to try to yank it up. I'm looking into flanging up a heel/toe shifter so she can just stomp down with her heel to upshift ( it'll be easier for me too, size 12 rubber boots don't fit). Moose Racing ( Utility Division) has one for a '99 Big Bear 350 4x4, and I think it might work , the pic of the Big Bear I saw looked like the same motor/shifter/footpeg/fender setup. Your other problems sound new to me, though. All I can think of is check where your reverse cable and wiring go into the tranny and snoop around, maybe the cable actuated lever is jammed inside and the rev. cable broke inside the sheath so internally its like the **** is always on. This could also be the source of the neutral light problem( as long as the bulb isn't just burnt out). You're probably going to have to trace them back and eliminate possible problems once step at a time. Wish I could be more helpful, let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks for the reply! I'll stop worrying about the shifting since that's a common issue. I appreciate the feedback.

I checked the cable for the reverse lever and everything looks OK. Turning the **** moves the reverse actuator on the engine. The actuator is at perpendicular to the ground....when the **** is turned, it's pulled towards the back of the machine....I'm stumped.

I've found Neutral before, but no light. Maybe it is the bulb.....

 

GlennJ, I was looking in the archived threads and came across one from Oct.30/05 titled '1995 wolverine problems'. The guy was talking about the same tranny issues you are having. Might help looking at, didn't sound like much you can do though.

 

Nice find! Thanks!

Yeah, based on that thread, seems like it's a something that can happen. I'll try and check the neutral bulb. If I can get that working, I'll hopefully be able to hit neutral before going down one more for reverse.

 

Reverse Lock-out problem:
1.) Make sure your Reverse Control Lever, located on the RT side of the case, is pointing straight down (6 o'clock). You should be able to move the lever, by hand, toward the cable clamp bracket, it should have some tension and should snap back when let go.

2.) The control lever on the dash should easily move the lever to about the 7 o'clock position. The measurement from the center of the lead end hooked into the control lever - to - the face of the bracket on the control lever side... should measure around 33-38mm. The book says 38mm, but mine adjusted up to more like 33mm.

3) When working properly, the shaft that the control lever is attached to has an arm on it internally, that won't let the shift cam rotate any further than neutral. When the reverse control lever rotates the shaft / arm (via the dash **** and cable), the shift cam is allowed to rotate into the reverse position. Assuming the cable is adjusted properly and the control lever isn't broken, either the internal spring has broken or the arm on the shaft has been damaged (spring and arm are inside the right side cover). I have a few digital pictures that show what I am describing. If you want a copy, PM me with your email address.

4) The Neutral light. The Reverse and Neutral light are both switched on / off by a switch that is mounted on the end of the shift cam. This is the same end of the shift cam, that the Reverse lever assy. describe above controls. The (2) wires that come out of the case by the Reverse lever, are Green (Reverse Light) & Reddish Brown (Neutral Light). They make there way to a plug that ends up somewhere below the Rear Brake Fluid reservoir. On the other side of the plug, the Green (Rev. Light) changes to a Green / Blue wire and the Reddish Brown (Neut. Light) changes to a Sky Blue, kinda like a Powder Blue. You can trace these colors to one side of the Lights and the other side of the lights will have a 12V Brown wire on them. Assuming you have 12V on the Brown wires (ignition ON), you can test the Neutral bulb by jumpering the powder blue wire to Ground (that's essentially what the switch in the case does). The light should come on. If it does not, the bulb is probably bad. If it does come on, you either have a broken / bad connection on the powder blue wire or the switch behind the RT case cover is bad or not being operated correctly by the shift cam.

 

tdragano,

WOW! Thanks for the great info! That helps quite a bit! Sounds like I may have some issue inside the case... The Reverse Control Lever is pointing straight down...and it moves back when I turn the reverse ****. I'll PM you for pics...sounds very helpful.

From what you describe, I wonder if I just have a burnt out bulb. The reverse light works, so I'll assume the wiring is OK from the engine. I'll try to inspect the bulb this weekend. I take it that's just a matter of removing that pod near the bars and pulling out the bulb housing?

 

Hey GlenJ,

I would check the Neut. bulb at the pod like you suggested. I can't remember if there are spade connectors or if there are wires soldered / crimped at the bulbs. Check it out when you have time; you can always do the old "stick a pin through the insulation" or follow the wires down to the nearest plug connection.

Let us know what you find.

 

Excellent! I plan on doing a bit of work to the machine this weekend.....change the fluid in the front and rear diffs, oil change and a really good washing.

I'll be sure to include the neutral light check on my list of things to do!

 

Sorry to bump an old thread!

tdragano,
I looked over the service manual and it looks like the clutch assembly needs to be removed to access the reverse switch on the end of the shift drum. Is that the case? If so, I may just hold off on this. That seems like quite a bit of work.....