I have to agree with GlennJ on the anti-seize for the exhaust bolts. Works great. You can pick some up at Advance or AutoZone auto parts.

With your mods, I wouldn't think you should have to go any larger than a 145 main jet.

The most accurate way to check the plug color is to do a good long full throttle pass and then cut the engine. When you cut the engine, you can pull up on the shifter and then hold it there, then coast to a stop. Pulling up and holding the shifter up with your foot does essentially the same thing as pulling in a hand clutch.

Don't expect a big change on the plug tip. I have found that it is easiest to read the white porcelain in the base of the plug. I use a cheap otoscope (the thing the Doc sticks in your ear) to look down into the plug. You need to have a new plug or a freshly glass beaded one to really be able to tell what you're looking at. If the porcelain is black all the way to the electrode, you're on the rich side.

There are a ton of articles on the web dealing with reading spark plugs and everyone has a different way to do it. But, just about everyone agrees that once you let the motor idle, your plug read won't be accurate.

 

OK. Just took the 4 wheeler to Superlift ORV park in Hot springs Arkansas and had a blast.

However to clarify my problem, even if going up a small hill or incline it would start off real sluggish even at full throttle but once it got going all of the sudden the rpms come up and it would come to life. Almost seems like there is a problem with the low side of the carb? Any comments what my problem may be? It doesnt seem normal to me. I do have a 140 main jet and FMF site recomends a 142-145, so I am going to get that jet and see what happens. This this may fix my problem? Does it sound like I actually have a problem? I dont have another Wolverine to test ride to see how it is.

 

I just ordered this from Denniskirk. Is it the right one?

Genuine Mikuni 100/604 Main Jet - Size 145
Dennis Kirk Part #: 1725145
Manufacturer Part #: KN100604145

Description
These are the same large, round jets found in RS and HS carbs
Available in sizes 60 through 100 and from 105 through 200 in increments of 2.5
Now sold in 2-packs

 

Anyone?
I found these instructions. Seems like more than just replacing a main jet.
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/Q403.pdf

 

Yeah, looks like instructions on how to install a DynoJet kit. You're just replacing the main...which is in the picture on the lower right part of those directions.

 

I bought a 145 main from a local service place and put the 145 in. It seemed to have made a huge difference. I have no hills to try, but seems to have a whole lot more power. However now it seems harder to start and idle isnt as smooth. Maybe I went too big? Loading it up?

 

Just found this on FMF website. I will have to check my seetings and make the required adjustments and see what happens.

Jetting Information
Main Jet: 142-145
Pilot Jet: N/A
Needle: STOCK
Needle Position: 3RD
Power Jet: N/A
Air Screw: N/A
Fuel Screw: 1.5
Comments: Remove airbox lid snorkel

 

Your main jet will not effect starting at all. That's your pilot jet. Did you adjust the pilot at all when you swapped out the main?

 

Nope, just cleaned the carb and replaced the main.
Maybe my starter is going. It doesnt sound like any other 4 wheeler, smooth. Sounds kinda clunky, like it doesnt have enough power to throw out the bendix if it has one.

 

Could be your brushes. Mine just stopped working one day. I took it apart and the brushes were toasted. A good cleaning a new set of brushes and it works really really well. I hardly hear the start spin...the engine fires up almost the instant I hit the starter button.

I aslo hook my machine up to a battery tender every few weeks. That keeps the battery fresh and fully charged.