I'm with hondabuster on this. A lean condition will raise your idle. If you pull the choke(or leave it on) when the engine is warm the rpms should drop. You should be looking for a air leak somewhere.

 

95wolv... I feel your pain. The carb on the 95's are a biotch to re-jet as you have to pull the carb to do it. I do mine a couple of times a year to re-jet for Colorado and I'm about sick of it. I've already got one Dial-A-Jet installed to help with major altitude changes while in Colorado, but I'm contemplating another so I won't have to rejet at all - just adjust. Wouldn't that be sweet?

As far as your carb goes, all I can think of is the needle - have you pulled the top of the carb and verified the needle is properly seated and the plastic cap with two screws is all the way down? I know, you have, nevermind.

If you do end up loosing control and decide it's time for a new carb, an Edelbrock would be nice, but man, it's like have 4 Benjamins between your legs while riding your quad - just too much money. So, I've got an alternative.

I've got a buddy that had an '03 Wolverine. He wanted me to be able to jet it for him without having to stock a whole slew of jets for his quad aside from my own, so he bought a brand new (in the box) carb for a Warrior (identical to the '95 Wolverine's as you already know). His Wolverine is gone, but he still has the carb. If interested, I'll ask him what sorta cash will be requied to give it a new home besides his shop bench drawer. The only defect I know of is that the carb choke shaft is slightly bent - but still functions properly. I can have him snag a photo if you'd like.

I wish I could say "Oh, it's your thingamajiggy or your whatchyamacallit or your dohicky or your .... well, you get the point. I hope you find it soon, nothing like being aggrivated with your ride.

I'll see if I can subscribe to this thread so I know if you respond.

Good Luck.

 

Thanks,95, thats sounds like something I would definately like to try,been looking for a good Warrior carb, but the last one I bought off ebay was only good for parts,all rusted and oxidized inside,like it sat for a couple of years. Let me know what he wants for it, I have a new choke rod to replace the bent one (bent mine,too !!) As far as the Edelbrock, 400 is about average for a replacement carb, a new Mikuni is that much, or a custom Mikuni from White Bros with accel pump is over 450, I just got a nice chunk of cash from an insurance policy I canceled, so I am seriously looking at the Quicksilver,but I would like to have another working carb for a backup,or heaven forbid, I ever sell mine, and keep the Edelbrock. Hope to hear back from you, I haven't been working on the carb lately, too much to do in the fall, with bow hunting starting up and a house to finish before the snow flies.

 

Hey Guys...

Don't have any more to add on the OEM carb. But, I figured I'd give you my review of the Warrior Edelbrock carb.

Installation-
a) Bolts right up to the head with the supplied manifold. When initially eyeballing this carb, I wondered if the bottom of the carb was going to hit the starter. It ends up close, but does clear with about an 1/8 - 3/16" clearance.

b) Now for the connection to the airbox. First off, I am running one of Mickey Dunlap's (FST) air intakes. It's hard to explain, but is totally different than the OEM rubber boot type. I wish I had some better info for the masses, who have the OEM boot. The Edelbrock ends up a little closer to the airbox. This caused me to do a little trimming of the hard plastic tube that comprises Mickey's. I really think that there would be enough flex in the rubber OEM boot, that everything would end up working out. I think it would be tight though. I would have tried the OEM boot for comparison, but with Mickey's intake, the airbox is modded so that the original OEM will not work any longer.

c) Throttle cable- The handle bar / frame / motor-carb location must be different on the Warrior. There were several issues here. 1) The cable assy with the Edel is really too short for the Wolv, but I was able to make it work. You have to run it shortest way possible, in order to reach the carb. 2) Once connected up, the carb wouldn't close down to the idle position, even with the adjuster on the thumb side screwed all the way in, in order to make the cable housing as short as possible. After some head scratching, I came up with this idea and it worked. The threads on the thumb side of the cable housing did not run in as far as they could have. So, I ran some more threads (toward the center of the cable) with a die. This allowed me to screw the thumb end of the cable, further into the thumb assy, essentially shortening the cable housing and freeing up more cable. This allowed the throttle on the carb to close down to the idle position. 3) To open the Edel carb to Full Throttle, it takes an enormous amount of cable to be pulled. After hours of grinding on the throttle stop under the thumb throttle and inside the thumb housing, I FINALLY got enough cable pull to open the Edel to WOT. But, when you push the thumb lever to WOT, it ends up way under the handlebar and is really in an un-natural position. It works, but I don't like it. I've tried to get someone on here to measure the amount of cable pull on a Raptor or YFZ, but I can't find any takers. There are some aftermarket thumb assemblies out there, but they are around $130.

Operation-
a) As I'm sure you have read, there are NO jets in this carb. You adj the Idle / Mid by raising and lowering the needle, EXTERNALLY, and you adj the top end by changing out the needle. It comes with (3) needles, with the mid size needle installed. Even with my 446, the mid sized needle was the correct size for WOT.

b) It comes with a little screw-in adjuster tool that you push down on, while holding the throttle wide open. The adjuster tool is then able to drop into a slot and you turn either CW to Richen or CCW to Lean out. That's it! I have been leaving the adj tool installed all the time. I need to call Edelbrock to see if that is ok to do.

c) There is also an external accelerator pump adjustment, but I have not had to mess with it at all from the factory setting. I have absolutely no hesitation and really haven't had a symptom to warrant fooling with it.

Tuning Notes-
a) I use an Air / Fuel Ratio meter made by a company called Split Second. The Model No. is ARM1. I have to Thank my good friend 95Wolverine for turning me on to this little puppy. It is the best $200 I could have spent. If anyone wants more detailed info on it, just let one of us know.
b) This carb is EXTREMELY sensitive to Air Temp / Humidity changes. When there is more good clean Oxygen, this carb goes LEAN in a hurry. But, since I have been leaving the adjuster installed all the time, I just push the thumb throttle full open, reach up under the gas tank and turn the adjuster ( it's a tight squeeze between the top of the carb and bottom of the tank, but doable).

Final Thoughts- If you've made it this far into this post, you're probably interested on what I think about this carb. Overall, I LOVE IT !!!
a) I have ridden in 100 deg heat and still, absolutely no hesitation blips when taking off slowly or nailing it to WOT. Off Idle acceleration is GREAT!!!

b) Ever since I put the 446 together, I've felt that I there was more pull to be had on the top end. This carb unleashed that pull. You 1995 Wolv guys have a 36mm carb. Post 1995ers only had a 34mm carb. I'm guessing the increase in pull was partially gained from the increase in carb size.

Dislikes- I wish it had a choke. Since it has an accelerator pump, you just pump the gas a few times and it will start right up. But, you have to keep blipping the throttle to keep it running when it's cold.

 

The E-carbs are junk imo. Stick with mikuni or keihin. Im not sure you will gain much or anything with replacing the stock carb with something bigger on a stock wolverine.

 

tdragano, first, a big thank you for a very in depth, informative post. I knew there was some fiddling to get the Edelbrock hooked up,but it sounds like you had a bit more than average to get it to work right. I have heard that using the Warrior thumb throttle assembly seems to work better, with almost no mods or grinding, maybe look into that and let me know if that is any better. I like the idea of the great throttle response, that is why I am looking more to the Edelbrock, but I am hoping to keep the afro-engineering to a minimum. I'm going to wait to hear back from 95 Wolverine to see what that new Warrior carb will run me, got plenty of parts for one of those !! Thanks to all that have posted so far, getting a lot of good information here, but just a side note, tdragano, the stock carb is a 36mm not a 46, that would be a bit big for my little 350 !!!

 

95Wolv, thanks for catching the typo...I meant 34 /36.

Maybe the Warrior thumb throttle pulls more cable, since it is a different carb design. Although, I would think yours would be the same as the Warrior, since your carbs were the same in 95???

If you ever think about it, pull the top off your thumb throttle for me and measure how much cable it pulls.

Recon99 also has the Edelbrock on his Warrior and he loves it too.

 

Sheesh TDrango... are your fingers numb after that post? lol

I like the idea of adjustability on the Edelbrock, but can I not achieve the same thing using a dial-a-jet or two? or three...? for $75.00 a pop, I can buy 5 of them and still be under the price of the edelbrock. then I wouldn't have to take anything apart. lol

Ok.. I've made the call for you 95wolv... I'll likely hear something back from him this weekend so hold on to your saddle (atv seat for those that don't get it). He bought it off of e-bay for a good price way back and I'm guessing he only wants out of it what he has in it - if my memory serves me correctly, it will be a good deal. In addition, he replaced all the OEM phillips head screws with Stainless Allen head screws - a bonus if you ask me. I did it to my carb and I can't even imagine going back to the phillips as they rounded out entirely too easily. Wait.. I'm supposed to try and sell parts, aren't I?

I'll post something more when I know more.

 

tdragano,
I will measure up my throttle assembly and post numbers, I also have a Warrior throttle assembly I got for a spare years back, I will check that one out as well,but like you said, since the carb style was the same,maybe the 95 Wolverine will have the same throttle assembly. As for the having no choke, is yours the racing version? I was under the assumption they did come with a choke, and there was a racing version with no choke. I contacted a guy on ebay that was selling Edelbrock carbs for Warriors, and he assured me it had a choke, while another I contacted selling a used one with a twist throttle said his did not, so I can't be 100 percent sure on that issue.I will contact the seller again and ask about a choke, and if it has one, what style it is. No choke in Minnesota means very hard starting in the winter time, and a long warm up !!! That would be enough to make me rethink the Edelbrock, I need something that is easily usable year round. When I get home from work, I'll try and get some numbers for you, maybe a quick throttle housing change will help you out with yours.

 

95Wolv,

You've got me wondering about there being two different versions of the Edelbrock carb for the Warrior / Wolv. But, the Edelbrock site just shows one version.

The instructions that came with the Edelbrock show a choke, but mine doesn't have it. I got mine off the guy on Ebay that is always selling the new ones.

Let me know if you find anything else out. I should probably call Edelbrock direct and ask them. I also wanted to ask them about leaving the needle adjusting tool in all the time.