whats a plug chop?

 

The ceramic part on the tip of your spark plug can be different colors, depending on the air-fuel ratio. When you're running rich or burning oil, you will find a black, sooty tip. When it's too lean, it will be a clean white color, or very light tan. When jetting is on par, the tip should be tan or light brown.

Start out by riding it around for a few minutes until your engine is up to normal operating temperature. When you do a plug chop, the most important thing is go get it at the throttle position where it's running bad, and hold it at that point where it's sputtering for a while, try for at least 10 or 15 seconds, or more if you have enough room to. After you run it at the trouble throttle position, immediately pull in the clutch, release the throttle, and hit the kill switch. Then you let the engine cool down, if need be, then remove the spark plug and inspect the color on the tip. Sometimes it's hard to know for sure by looking at it, especially when it's your first time doing it, but if you can post up a decent picture of the plug, I can give you my 2 cents about it.

 

This is the second post on this problem in 2 weeks. I thought everyone that had ever owned a Warrior knew about this but I geuss not.
The 2 main causes of your problem are the parking brake switch. (The one on the clutch lever like mentioned) and the reverse lever/switch. LEAVE THE CARB ALONE UNTIL YOU RULE THESE OUT!!
First, cut the wires going to the clutch lever and splice them together.
Second, if that doesn't fix it, take the reverse lever apart and clean it and all the electrical connections.
If that doesn't fix it, then you will have to look at things like the carb, but take care of those 2 first.

 

First, you aren't the first one to say that. That's what QUODER was trying to explain. But I can guarantee you that's not his problem anyways if he's been riding it the way it is for so long. When the parking brake switch gets stuck, it sets a rev limiter at around 2,000 rpm. That's barely enough rpm's to even get rolling, so it wouldn't have really been even rideable if that was the problem.

 

the parking brake problem happens on any bike. u cant even get it up to half throttle. anything more than liek 1/6th throttle on my bike and it would do it. it would bearly go with taping the throttle, same on my dads warrior.

 

soemthing else i'd like to add... there is not one wire u have to splice together to remove the parking break...

 

Yea, you guys are right. Tear into that carb! Heck, better just buy ya a new one! Maybe even a new cam and valves, yea, that will fix it.

Do a search on hear and see how many times its either been the parking brake OR reverse lever! All I sugested was checking them first. And yea, it can let it sputter at any RPM, but I geuss you knew that also.

PS. There is 2 wires going to the clutch lever/switch. (Like I mentioned) splice those 2 together, and it will disconnect the parking brake switch.
I'd still bet money that its a reverse lever electrical problem.

 

ok you don't have to splice any wires... y are you not getting this?

 

I do get it. Why all the hate? I had Warriors back in the late 80's till the early 00's, and this was always the first places you would ever check if it started sputtering. The parking brake was alot more obvious to detect, while the reverse lever connections were harder to tell, but it seemed to fix the problem 9 out of 10 times. The reverse will let it rev alot higher before it will sputter. Otherwise you could never back up. It doesn't cost anything to clean these up and he already said hes cleaned the carb and tried all that. So why jump all over me for tring to help a guy out?

Splicing the wires completes the circuit and does not leave a hot wire exsposed.

 

ya but what if thats not how the switch works. it could only cause sputtering when there is contact. that would make the problem worse if u connect them. idk how the switch works tho