Edelbrock Carb kits
#11
01-18-2007, 07:18 PM
Edelbrock Carb kits
Originally posted by: recon99
The Edelbrock is definitely worth the money. By far the best carb for a warrior. On a stock machine you wouldn't gain much, but once you start getting some mods on them, the carb really starts to make a difference. So much easier to tune, much better throttle response, it's just a night and day difference from that piece of junk stock carb.
Yeah warrior/raptor 350 guys, check out yfm350central.com. I'm a member over there, under the name yamarider.
The Edelbrock is definitely worth the money. By far the best carb for a warrior. On a stock machine you wouldn't gain much, but once you start getting some mods on them, the carb really starts to make a difference. So much easier to tune, much better throttle response, it's just a night and day difference from that piece of junk stock carb.
Yeah warrior/raptor 350 guys, check out yfm350central.com. I'm a member over there, under the name yamarider.
Let me ask you this. Does the Edelbrock have a main jet, how about an air jet? It must use a needle jet as well? These are all things that have to be tuned in on what ever carb you buy if you are trying to produce the most power. Are we talking because you don't have to take the carb appart to adjust the needle?
I can think of better carbs out there and I don't know why they have to be bike specific. An engine is an air pump simple as that, the warrior is no different.
Can you give me facts why the edelbrock it better then an FZR or RS or why would it produce more power? Both are flat slide carbs with a accel pumps.
Why do you say the stock carb is junk?
#12
01-18-2007, 07:35 PM
Edelbrock Carb kits
It's set up quite a bit different from a conventional carb. It has no jets, everything is controlled by the needle. So idle-1/3 throttle is adjusted by changing the needle height. All it takes to change the needle height is to shut the engine down, squeeze the throttle lever all the way open, and turn the **** on the top of the carb a few clicks. Takes about 15 seconds. The 1/3-full throttle "jetting" is modified by replacing the needle with one of a different size. The carb comes with the 18E installed, which works for most basic pipe and filter applications, a 16E for stock machines, and a 20E for more modified engines. And of course you can order any other size you want if none of those work. Changing the needle is simple also, and takes less than 15 minutes following the instructions. The accelerator pump is also adjustable by a screw on the side of the float bowl, so no disassembly required there.
The stock carb is junk. The floats always get stuck, the accelerator pump is too weak on the rare occasion that it works at all, and it's a pain to rejet. Half the time you take it off to rejet it, the poorly designed intake manifold gets a crack in it and throws you for a loop, making you think that you rejetted it too lean because of the air leak, and costing you $35 to replace the piece of junk with another one that will do the same thing. Since I got the edelbrock I haven't had a single problem with it.
The stock carb is junk. The floats always get stuck, the accelerator pump is too weak on the rare occasion that it works at all, and it's a pain to rejet. Half the time you take it off to rejet it, the poorly designed intake manifold gets a crack in it and throws you for a loop, making you think that you rejetted it too lean because of the air leak, and costing you $35 to replace the piece of junk with another one that will do the same thing. Since I got the edelbrock I haven't had a single problem with it.
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