Synthetic oil???
#11
Hi JLsparky,
Just read your thread and have the following thoughts on:
Better protection
The lubricity of the petroleum and synthetic oils are identical out of the can ( assuming the same API specs).
More HP
The hp issue is governed by viscosity. That is assuming that there is no PTFE added.
Easier cold starts
This issue is also controlled by viscosity.
Cheaper Mile for Mile
Cost is not a factor. The cost are small numbers either way.
Maintains viscosity much longer
This is true, but my oil will be dirty than I want it 1500 miles. The sunthetic will be capable of going a lot further, except for suspended abrasives.
Best regards [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Just read your thread and have the following thoughts on:
Better protection
The lubricity of the petroleum and synthetic oils are identical out of the can ( assuming the same API specs).
More HP
The hp issue is governed by viscosity. That is assuming that there is no PTFE added.
Easier cold starts
This issue is also controlled by viscosity.
Cheaper Mile for Mile
Cost is not a factor. The cost are small numbers either way.
Maintains viscosity much longer
This is true, but my oil will be dirty than I want it 1500 miles. The sunthetic will be capable of going a lot further, except for suspended abrasives.
Best regards [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#12
Originally posted by: THEGRIZ
Hi JLsparky,
Just read your thread and have the following thoughts on:
Better protection
The lubricity of the petroleum and synthetic oils are identical out of the can ( assuming the same API specs).
More HP
The hp issue is governed by viscosity. That is assuming that there is no PTFE added.
Easier cold starts
This issue is also controlled by viscosity.
Cheaper Mile for Mile
Cost is not a factor. The cost are small numbers either way.
Maintains viscosity much longer
This is true, but my oil will be dirty than I want it 1500 miles. The sunthetic will be capable of going a lot further, except for suspended abrasives.
Best regards [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Hi JLsparky,
Just read your thread and have the following thoughts on:
Better protection
The lubricity of the petroleum and synthetic oils are identical out of the can ( assuming the same API specs).
More HP
The hp issue is governed by viscosity. That is assuming that there is no PTFE added.
Easier cold starts
This issue is also controlled by viscosity.
Cheaper Mile for Mile
Cost is not a factor. The cost are small numbers either way.
Maintains viscosity much longer
This is true, but my oil will be dirty than I want it 1500 miles. The sunthetic will be capable of going a lot further, except for suspended abrasives.
Best regards [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Synthetic oils rate ABOVE (api) standards, therefore offer more protection. That is why most syn oils are enterchangeable between multiple usesages and vehicles
More HP
See above
Easier cold starts
It is not controled by viscocity is it controled by pour point which is much different
Cheaper Mile for Mile
They are not the same, if you own a ATV for 20 years the cost is significantly differnt, not to mention if you own multiple ATV's
Maintains viscosity much longer
"This is true" - Nuff said
#13
Yamaha recommends changing motor oil and filter in 700 Grizz every 1600 miles or 6 months whichever comes first. Yamaha does not have a special extended change interval for synthetic motor oils. I have never been comfortable with anything near these very long oil change intervals in any dirt bike or quad. So I just change motor oil every 400 to 500 miles max and I change filter every other oil change. I suppose I am changing oil more often than necessary but in my situation synthetics don't give me the advantage and would only cost more since I would still dump oil at 500 miles max just to get the dirt out.
When people talk about polymer shearing this is another way of saying viscosity breakdown. Synthetic motor oils generally take less additives to get the required multi grade so the synthetics have much slower viscosity breakdown. So when a non synthetic may start viscosity breakdown at 4000 miles a comparable full synthetic could go 8000 miles or more before the same amount of breakdown. But no significant viscosity breakdown will occur in 500 miles.
The other reason I like the 15-40 diesel spec oil is that I use it in diesel and gas trucks, in liquid cooled road bikes, and always have cases on hand. It has very good detergent and anti wear additives. Cost is around $2.00 per quart in 6 gal cases.
When people talk about polymer shearing this is another way of saying viscosity breakdown. Synthetic motor oils generally take less additives to get the required multi grade so the synthetics have much slower viscosity breakdown. So when a non synthetic may start viscosity breakdown at 4000 miles a comparable full synthetic could go 8000 miles or more before the same amount of breakdown. But no significant viscosity breakdown will occur in 500 miles.
The other reason I like the 15-40 diesel spec oil is that I use it in diesel and gas trucks, in liquid cooled road bikes, and always have cases on hand. It has very good detergent and anti wear additives. Cost is around $2.00 per quart in 6 gal cases.
#14
Looks like "oldturtle" is wise with age.
I agree with you that the probability of dirty oil by running it longer than recommended is far more risky. Synthetic oil has it's place (In an application where contamination is not an issue) and that is not in ATV's.
Another marketing trick to sell $8 oil. What a shame.
Best regards [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
I agree with you that the probability of dirty oil by running it longer than recommended is far more risky. Synthetic oil has it's place (In an application where contamination is not an issue) and that is not in ATV's.
Another marketing trick to sell $8 oil. What a shame.
Best regards [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#15
Originally posted by: oldturtle
Yamaha recommends changing motor oil and filter in 700 Grizz every 1600 miles or 6 months whichever comes first. Yamaha does not have a special extended change interval for synthetic motor oils. I have never been comfortable with anything near these very long oil change intervals in any dirt bike or quad. So I just change motor oil every 400 to 500 miles max and I change filter every other oil change. I suppose I am changing oil more often than necessary but in my situation synthetics don't give me the advantage and would only cost more since I would still dump oil at 500 miles max just to get the dirt out.
When people talk about polymer shearing this is another way of saying viscosity breakdown. Synthetic motor oils generally take less additives to get the required multi grade so the synthetics have much slower viscosity breakdown. So when a non synthetic may start viscosity breakdown at 4000 miles a comparable full synthetic could go 8000 miles or more before the same amount of breakdown. But no significant viscosity breakdown will occur in 500 miles.
The other reason I like the 15-40 diesel spec oil is that I use it in diesel and gas trucks, in liquid cooled road bikes, and always have cases on hand. It has very good detergent and anti wear additives. Cost is around $2.00 per quart in 6 gal cases.
Yamaha recommends changing motor oil and filter in 700 Grizz every 1600 miles or 6 months whichever comes first. Yamaha does not have a special extended change interval for synthetic motor oils. I have never been comfortable with anything near these very long oil change intervals in any dirt bike or quad. So I just change motor oil every 400 to 500 miles max and I change filter every other oil change. I suppose I am changing oil more often than necessary but in my situation synthetics don't give me the advantage and would only cost more since I would still dump oil at 500 miles max just to get the dirt out.
When people talk about polymer shearing this is another way of saying viscosity breakdown. Synthetic motor oils generally take less additives to get the required multi grade so the synthetics have much slower viscosity breakdown. So when a non synthetic may start viscosity breakdown at 4000 miles a comparable full synthetic could go 8000 miles or more before the same amount of breakdown. But no significant viscosity breakdown will occur in 500 miles.
The other reason I like the 15-40 diesel spec oil is that I use it in diesel and gas trucks, in liquid cooled road bikes, and always have cases on hand. It has very good detergent and anti wear additives. Cost is around $2.00 per quart in 6 gal cases.
The only way you are going to get "dirt" in your oil is from lack of maintanance or through the crankcase breathing tube.
The reason yamaha reccomends such frequent draining is because most of there quad owners use yamalube which puts more money in there pocket. A quad is capable of going WELL over 1600 miles with a good lubricant, without sacrificing engine/trans damage or power loss.
As for the griz, the "marketing trick" to sell 8 dollar a quart oil isnt a "marketing trick" when its cheaper than other oils and gives better protection.
To each his own, just giving me 2 cents.
#16
Just a note here........I know it's a Yamaha forum...But seen this on Today's New Topics and wanted to post a thread
My two Polaris Sportsmans 450's 2006 came with 0W40 Synthetic from day one. Some people don't start to use this (Synthetic)until the engine is broke-in..........Not polaris...........Thanks.........Caper.......
My two Polaris Sportsmans 450's 2006 came with 0W40 Synthetic from day one. Some people don't start to use this (Synthetic)until the engine is broke-in..........Not polaris...........Thanks.........Caper.......
#17
Originally posted by: caperinmuskoka
Just a note here........I know it's a Yamaha forum...But seen this on Today's New Topics and wanted to post a thread
My two Polaris Sportsmans 450's 2006 came with 0W40 Synthetic from day one. Some people don't start to use this (Synthetic)until the engine is broke-in..........Not polaris...........Thanks.........Caper.......
Just a note here........I know it's a Yamaha forum...But seen this on Today's New Topics and wanted to post a thread
My two Polaris Sportsmans 450's 2006 came with 0W40 Synthetic from day one. Some people don't start to use this (Synthetic)until the engine is broke-in..........Not polaris...........Thanks.........Caper.......
Ive used 0w40 since last year in my bike and my quad and there is no better oil for a powersports vehicle if you ask me. They are prone to not wanting to start yet need the protection of the higher viscocity
As for the "brake your engine in with non-syn" thats a pile of donkey poo.
#18
Originally posted by: JLsparky7
Thats because polaris wants to catch up with the other big name brands in the quad world. They know that by doing the little things like that will help there business.
Ive used 0w40 since last year in my bike and my quad and there is no better oil for a powersports vehicle if you ask me. They are prone to not wanting to start yet need the protection of the higher viscocity
As for the "brake your engine in with non-syn" thats a pile of donkey poo.
Originally posted by: caperinmuskoka
Just a note here........I know it's a Yamaha forum...But seen this on Today's New Topics and wanted to post a thread
My two Polaris Sportsmans 450's 2006 came with 0W40 Synthetic from day one. Some people don't start to use this (Synthetic)until the engine is broke-in..........Not polaris...........Thanks.........Caper.......
Just a note here........I know it's a Yamaha forum...But seen this on Today's New Topics and wanted to post a thread
My two Polaris Sportsmans 450's 2006 came with 0W40 Synthetic from day one. Some people don't start to use this (Synthetic)until the engine is broke-in..........Not polaris...........Thanks.........Caper.......
Ive used 0w40 since last year in my bike and my quad and there is no better oil for a powersports vehicle if you ask me. They are prone to not wanting to start yet need the protection of the higher viscocity
As for the "brake your engine in with non-syn" thats a pile of donkey poo.
I just don't understand what you mean by this......Why are you having this problem????...Caper....
#19
Im comparing it to a car or truck. The powersports vehicles have smaller batteries (if any battery) with 0 amps and less volts. They need lighter oils with lower pour points to help them start easier.
#20
The yamaha recommended oil classification is API Service "SE", "SF", "SG" type equivalent("SF-SE-CC", "SF-SE-SD"......) Certain additives will make the clutch plates slip. Following the engine builders advice isn't a bad thing and frequent oil changes is cheap insurance.
Honestly JLsparky, an oil change twice a year and you cant tell the difference between new and old, I'm throwing the bs flag on that one unless you never ride. You obviously ride so there has to be a marked difference in oil appearance.
Honestly JLsparky, an oil change twice a year and you cant tell the difference between new and old, I'm throwing the bs flag on that one unless you never ride. You obviously ride so there has to be a marked difference in oil appearance.


