The coil is located at the end of the spark plug wire. To test, the coil should be at least 60 degrees F. Using your ohm meter, test resistance between ground and the orange wire on the primary side of the coil. This should read .85 ohms +- 20%. Then test from the orange wire to your spark plug wire. This should read 5.9K ohms +- 20%.

 

Cliff you have me a bit confused here. I need to get this story straight!

You did say engine pull starts fine and the engine runs good?
Also you mentioned that the kill switch is not connected because switch is broken and contacts are open?
With all due respect, at this point the logical thing would be to say that the ignition coil, pickups and the rest of the charging system is operating good? Wouldn't you say so? Engine function is not breaking up when you give it some throttle, is it?
Now I am depending on your logical mind!


You do have the schematic?
In this startup condition?
Main switch (key switch) is in the on position?
Broken kill switch, open contacts?

Look at these wires! B and the B/W at these 2 switches follow them down to the three contact connecter to the CDI unit. B/W is eliminated?
Keep in mind, the black wire here is still common with some other parts of the circuit...

In the on position of the main switch lets look at the R (red) wire and the Br (brown) wire.
Red wire is hot (power) and thru the main switch in the on position, the Brown wire is hot?

Let's look at the starter button...
Brown wire goes to the Starter button putting the potential on one side of the button switch?
The other side of this starter button has a stripped wire (schematic shows B/W but for the moment let us just say stripped. Follow this wire to the 4 contact connector thru this connector keep following the stripped wire.

It goes to the starter cutoff relay which has 4 connections and jumpers 2 of these 4 connections.
Now since it is a relay it has an energizing coil to operate. The Sky Blue wire goes to ground thru the neutral safety switch. The coil inside the relay is energized when the starter button is pressed closing the contact, permitting the flow of electricity to continue to the single R/w wire on the other side of the relay.
This flow now is split one goes to the starter relay/solenoid energizing the starter also it goes to the CDI unit.

This does not happen when you pull start the engine does it?
So when you pull start the engine there is nothing happening at this 3 contact connector at the CDI unit, is there?
There is not very much happening here.

But when you do press the starter button the engine does not start correct?

Next logical thing I would imagine is to separate this 3 prong plug from the CDI unit.
To keep a common ground to the CDI unit, jumper the black wire between the connector mates, and start the engine with the starter button.

 

tommy,
Just checked everything--Your scenerio is correct below--broken kill switch(open Leads etc... Relay starter energizes and turns starter motor--but wont start. Pull start--no starter relay engages but engine does start.

One difference
CDI has two bundles of wires coming from it going to plugs like u mentioned.
BUT:
Insted of a 3 wire plug and a 4 wire plug
There are (2) 4 wire plugs.
What you refer to as trhee wire is actually 4 wire plug coming from the CDI.
This plug 4 wires--also orange, black, black/wht,red/wht--There is an extra orange wire in the plug which if you look at the schematic goes to the ignition coil! The schematic shows the orange wire as NOT part of the plug.
If i read you correct this entire connector except for the blk is not used when electric starting? I can jump the black and engine should start? I thing this orange wire going through this connector is critical since it goes to the ignition coil.
But i could be way off
Let me know what u think -thanks

 

Raptor,
60 degrees F? I have to wait for spring!!
Garage has sports car that I cant pull out during the snow season. Its flurrying now! ugh! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Thanks again for all your feedback! im getting there!

 

Cliff all I have is the schematic to go by.
Yes you are correct the orange wire will be critical.
Is there anything else the schematic does not show?
Jmp that one too and see!
Raptor may have a point but if you are in a hurry to get it going. That will be up to you...

 

You can warm the coil up with a hair drier!

 

Guys,
the schematic is the correct one-thanks,
I do have one question---you want me to jump across the plug the blk and orange wires on that plug? Leave the red/wht and blk/wht open? I need to get alligator clip jumpers to jump then to bridge across plug without shorting the other two wires. i'll also take a voltage reading on the orange wire at the coil under both electric and pull start conditions.
Next weekend!
thanks again for your patience!

 

Good idea make sure that the jumpers are at least 14 or 16 gauge wire to thin it may not hold the current draw in some cases...

If the contacts in the plug are spade connections an automotive place will have them and all you need to do is make a set of wires that will just plug into the connector at the individual contacts.
Other option is that if the contacts are not molded inplace there is a retainer tab.
With care they can be removed from the connector. The R/W one would be the one that I was focusing on.
just need to pull that one.

Because the b/w wire is already been open at the broken kill switch and since the main switch is in the ON position the B/W wire would be open also.
Black os common ground to the circuitry need that
and the orange needs to go to the ignition coil.