Advice on my ideas for mods..........
#1
The mods I have are in my sig, I also have a g-force axle on its way in. I ride ALOT of trails and plan on hitting the MX course a couple times this year to see if I like it (which im sure I will), im a finatic when it comes to jumping. So here is what I was thinking to give my motor a low-end bite. I would also like to keep the shee a sleeper (keeping the stock look).
Paul Turner mids (get them bare metal and powdercoat them black)
Head milled .020 (plan on running 94 oct whats the most I can mill?)
Cylinders ported .020 over (with wiseco pistons and mx port job by rb racing)
Crank trued and welded
Removing the lid
15/41 gearing with an o-ring chain (im at 13-41 now and the gears are too short for mx)
Maybe a 33mm single carb later on
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Once I get the pipes im going to send the guts out to R&B and see what he reccomends.
Paul Turner mids (get them bare metal and powdercoat them black)
Head milled .020 (plan on running 94 oct whats the most I can mill?)
Cylinders ported .020 over (with wiseco pistons and mx port job by rb racing)
Crank trued and welded
Removing the lid
15/41 gearing with an o-ring chain (im at 13-41 now and the gears are too short for mx)
Maybe a 33mm single carb later on
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Once I get the pipes im going to send the guts out to R&B and see what he reccomends.
#2
I have done several of these mods. For the heads I had my stock heads domed so that volume of each head is balanced because when stock the volumes often vary slightly side to side. Then for the milling you need to specify if you will be running pump premium or race gas. The 94 oct you mention may be higher than you can get at pump. The single carb option is great for ease of jetting, no required syncronizing, easy starting and idleing. I have the Trinity 35mm with Trinity adaptors to run stock air box and then proflow air box adaptor for K&N which is required if you run without air box lid. Even the 35mm is down some on power from the twin stockers so I would be inclined to prefer the 35mm over a 33mm. The single 35mm gives plenty of low end hit earlier than the stock twins. Another option for the carbs would be to get the RB Machine stock carb bore and venturi divider plate which is claimed to improve low end and still give a healthy top end boost.
#3
ive heard nothing but good about the paul turner pipes, along with the toomeys. i had a friend who ran a single 36mm carb, no airbox .20 over, port and polish, cr250 reeds and trinity head that made for a really nice fast set up. i dont know too much about paul turner pipes for the banshee's but i know the 250r's run really well with them.
#4
Originally posted by: oldturtle
I have done several of these mods. For the heads I had my stock heads domed so that volume of each head is balanced because when stock the volumes often vary slightly side to side. Then for the milling you need to specify if you will be running pump premium or race gas. The 94 oct you mention may be higher than you can get at pump. The single carb option is great for ease of jetting, no required syncronizing, easy starting and idleing. I have the Trinity 35mm with Trinity adaptors to run stock air box and then proflow air box adaptor for K&N which is required if you run without air box lid. Even the 35mm is down some on power from the twin stockers so I would be inclined to prefer the 35mm over a 33mm. The single 35mm gives plenty of low end hit earlier than the stock twins. Another option for the carbs would be to get the RB Machine stock carb bore and venturi divider plate which is claimed to improve low end and still give a healthy top end boost.
I have done several of these mods. For the heads I had my stock heads domed so that volume of each head is balanced because when stock the volumes often vary slightly side to side. Then for the milling you need to specify if you will be running pump premium or race gas. The 94 oct you mention may be higher than you can get at pump. The single carb option is great for ease of jetting, no required syncronizing, easy starting and idleing. I have the Trinity 35mm with Trinity adaptors to run stock air box and then proflow air box adaptor for K&N which is required if you run without air box lid. Even the 35mm is down some on power from the twin stockers so I would be inclined to prefer the 35mm over a 33mm. The single 35mm gives plenty of low end hit earlier than the stock twins. Another option for the carbs would be to get the RB Machine stock carb bore and venturi divider plate which is claimed to improve low end and still give a healthy top end boost.
All the local sunoco's gas stations around me have 87-89-93-94 available so that wont be a problem.
I love the idea of the 35mm carb, even if you lose a bit of power. In my opinion its worth it for the reasons you listed.
I would like to keep my airbox with the single carb just like you, so I would prolly end up getting the same adapters.
Are you talking about RB racings stock bore?
Whats the venturi divider plate?
#5
Check out this web site. www.rb-designs.com. These guys are legendary on the west coast for KDX and Banshee riders. The divider plate seperates the carb flow area into two seperate compartments as shown on the web site. These mods are much more effective than just a simple carb bore. Head milling only smooths out head and raises compression. Head doming maching actually reshapes the domes so that each side perfectly matches other side.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bpegram84
Kids Quads & Other ATV's - Ask an Expert!
0
Jul 22, 2015 08:15 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)




