it depends how bad it jumped timing, it could be bad enough to where it wouldnt start at all, sometimes if its off just a little bit then it will run but just real crappy...so its still possible it could have jumped timing specially since you said it had slack, it prolly needs a new timing chain and guides, to change those out you have to line it up TDC take off cam cover, left side cover and flywheel, and the head will have to come off also, i would see if your timing marks still line up

 

I connected a combustion gauge today and its 20 PSI.. That makes it 100 PSI short of standard combustion. I checked the valve clearance and made some small adjustment and it didnt make any difference. Should I pull the head and inspect the pistons and rings. Would timing disrupt combustion.

BTW- I meant the drive chain has slack NOT the timing chain.

 

If it has jumped time, Even tho you maybe at TDC (top dead center) you might have a valve partially open. Thus skewing your compression results.

Yes timing being off a couple teeth will drasticly affect the combustion process.

Timing for dummies. get ready for alot of reading, no this is not a picture book.. lol!
Here it is..
On your left crank case cover you should have 2 flat head screws, one large and one small. This is assuming you have a standard issue atv and nothing crazy.

Also on the left side of the head will be a large round cover, This is the cam gear cover.
Remove all 3 items, screws and cover. If it does not have a round cover you will need to pop the valve cover.
This is a damn good time to adjust your valve lash, Once your timing is DEAD ON!

This will give you sight access to the cam gear and the flywheel.

Find a socket that fits the end of the crank, While CAREFULLY looking into the smaller of the 2 holes rotate the crank counter clockwise. you will see a couple indicatoers stamped on the edge of the flywheel. should be just a vertical line, a F and a T.

The F is when the bike fires off the plug, the T is your TDC mark.

Carefully line up the Line next to the T with the indicator mark on the case cover, its useually up in the threads and pa pain in the **** to see at first. put your eyeball all in it and find the groove. Line up that Groove with the line next to the T. make shure its PERFECT! a couple degress off at teh crank equals a tooth at the cam.. PERFECT!

Now look at the cam gear there should be a dot or dimple on it probly just a couple grouves cut in it, should be 3. 2 of them should line up perfectly with some form of index mark on the head or the top of the head itself. while the 3rd line is perfectly 90degress to the head or index marks.

If everything lines up, your timing is fine. if the cam gear does not line up then it has jumped time. and you might have bent a valve. BUT for simplisitys sake we will re time it..

This is when you remove the tensioner. most have a cover screw a 8 mill and 2 or 3 8 mill screws holding the tensioner to the head itself.
Remove the cover screw this is the single guy thats at teh end of the tensioner body.
look inside it you will see a flat head groove, grab a flat head driver that FITS IT PROPERLY! and rotate it, forgot the direction. it will be semi easy to turn.. Now you know which way to turn and HOLD it when reinstalling the tensioner.
When you turn it it pulls in the tensioners plunger which is what presses against the chain chain slider. it automaticly adjusts itself, so no worries about it when reinstalling it.

Now remove the tensioner itself so that there is slack in the cam chain.
Here is where you want to be extra carefull as NOT to drop the chain down in the engine!! you will be hating life fishing it back up and getting it back on the crack gear without reemoving the head. BECAREFULL.

Now use a small phillips screw driver as in this shaft. and slide it up and around the cam gear under the chain. this will rotate the chain one or 2 teeth at a time. go either direction to get everything lined up.
Here is where it gets tricky.
Now reinstall the tensioner but dont torque the bolts down yet. recheck your timing. its off isnt it. this is the critical point. remove tensioner and re adjust the chain on the cam gear and reinstall the tensioner.. Did you get it all to line up? if not keep trying until you do, it can take a couple times to get it right, but have patients and do it right.

IF you simply cannot get it to line up ther chain maybe streched, and need replacement.

I would suggest you inspect it all and determine if its jumped time before trying to adjust it and come back here and detail what your timing index marks look like.. Prefer a pic.. and I will assist you more.

Once your timing is correct recheck your compression. if its still weak you probly killed a ring or burnt a valve, needing a rebuild..

School is over for the day, do you homework and be here early for class tomarrow.. lol!

 

Thank you very much. I will do this tomorrow and be back to let you know how it goes.

 

This is where I am lost. I didnt drop the chain since I have a little wire on it. But as I am trying to get the chain back on, it doesnt seem to catch at the bottom sprocket on the lower part of the engine. How do I catch the bottom sprocket?

 

Come to find out the piston is all scratched up and melted metal in the cylinder head chamber.

 

Just have patients and keep trying. its a bit#h, seems to happen to me about every 3rd top end rebuild I do regaurdless how carefull I am.

As for melted piston, That can be caused by 2 things. Jump time and it was detonating EXTREMLY bad and or running extremly lean.

GL on the rebuild. Just wish my stuff would break from time to time, It gives me a excuse to spend money on performance parts.

 

Mine had the same symptoms .Warriors don't need a fully charged battery to run ,you can push start it even with a very low battery because it needs current to drive the relays only.Mine had spark but when I read the service manual I found out that it was not enough ,the spark has to jump at least 1/4 inch outside the chamber .Battery power is not needed for the spark since this is pruduced by the source coil in the stator. I bought a new stator from Ricky Stator and it lasted only a couple of days ,it had a 1 year warranty so I returned it for exchange and again it only lasted for a couple of days again.Finally I ended up rebuilding the source coil myself .I used 30 awg enameled rated at 150c copper wire from flEbay tough it wasn't the correct size it worked just fine,I didn't count the turns either ,I just wound it till full ,soldered the end backs ,and sealed it with JB weld and some ribon polyester ribbon.The correct diameter is about 36 awg, cost only 15 dlls. Upon unwinding the burnt source coil I found out they use very low grade enamelled copper wiring. it been a moth and and my 2000 warroir runs just fine still.

 

I thought that at first along with the CDI unit, but I wasnt getting much compression either. That led me down to the piston and cylinder. The piston happened to be roughed up and melted onto the cylinder. If it still doesnt start when I put it back together I guess I will check the stator and perhaps rebuild one like you have done.

 

the tensioner is really easy to reset. Once you start to loosen them then you must take it all the way off and reset the tensioner. Just loosen the bolt in the center (cap bolt)and then unscrew the 2 mounting bolts on the head and pull it off. Make sure you dont get dirt inside the cylinder. Clean the washer and cap bolt with solvent. Also clean gasket or replace if bad. Take tensioner, lift latch and push piston all the way in and then release latch. After that your home free just put back in place and tighten bolts.

while this is out take your cylinder head cover off and check your cam chain for problems in the links. If this goes you are in big trouble. My friend was racing my warrior when it stalled out in 4th. the cam chain exploded and my engine had to be replaced