Lowering the Raptor
#1
I tried the little trick Bash described and it in fact lowered the rear by two inches at least! It now sets at least as low as the front now.(TCS Shocks)
The peice described is the relay arm and it is offset. All you do is turn it over and the shock sets lower thereby lowering the quad. It is like it was designed that way the way it works, like they meant for it to be adjustable. There is no way it could compromise the strength of the rear end because it does not alter the stress point only lowers it.
Am going to get some air on it today will lety you know. It sets so low I may have to put preload back on to lift it up some. What switch, huh.
The peice described is the relay arm and it is offset. All you do is turn it over and the shock sets lower thereby lowering the quad. It is like it was designed that way the way it works, like they meant for it to be adjustable. There is no way it could compromise the strength of the rear end because it does not alter the stress point only lowers it.
Am going to get some air on it today will lety you know. It sets so low I may have to put preload back on to lift it up some. What switch, huh.
#2
I put the description of it on a webpage.. If you don't care, take a look and see if I understood correctly how it is working. I did't take mine apart, only glanced at it enough to make a rough sketch of it.
Look on this page www.metalcraft-ar15.com/bash/lowering.htm
Look on this page www.metalcraft-ar15.com/bash/lowering.htm
#6
Bash,
The drawing is accurate on your website. The offset is maybe an inch.
I was unable to jump today because the track was flooded. But I doubt it will affect it to any degree. The quad sits low. I had to add preload to raise it up an inch or so. I had all of the preload off to lower and it wasn't enough but this was the trick. Saved me from getting zero-preload shocks for the back.
The bridge at Linton can be bypassed by going underneath. Are you guys wanting to ride there?
The drawing is accurate on your website. The offset is maybe an inch.
I was unable to jump today because the track was flooded. But I doubt it will affect it to any degree. The quad sits low. I had to add preload to raise it up an inch or so. I had all of the preload off to lower and it wasn't enough but this was the trick. Saved me from getting zero-preload shocks for the back.
The bridge at Linton can be bypassed by going underneath. Are you guys wanting to ride there?
#7
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#8
I was able to jump the Lowered Raptor today and was unable to tell any difference at all in the action of the shock. I stepped of the distance my rear wheel traveled 30ft from where I took off, so I wasn't jumping small.
I took it to the Yamaha dealer here and they looked it over and saw nothing they could see that should fail by jumping big. The linkage is the same as the YZ and they have seen riders lower there bikes in this manner.
I am not quite sure how high the rear will come back up by going all the way down on the preload. I had my preload at the lowest setting and when I turned the relay arm over it sat at TT level. So I screwed in the preload a quarter of the way down the threads on the shock and it sits right where I want it. Saved me $450.00 to have my rear redone to zero-preload.
I am familar with the durablue lowering kit, but on the Honda, and I can say I would rather do this than the durablue unit. I am sure it would be stronger than durablues'.
Blue Raptor: TCS Shocks, LoneStar A-Arms, DuraBlue axle, Fastline Brake Lines, Big Gun Pipe, GYTR Silencer, No-airlid, DG Bumper, Renthal Bar
I took it to the Yamaha dealer here and they looked it over and saw nothing they could see that should fail by jumping big. The linkage is the same as the YZ and they have seen riders lower there bikes in this manner.
I am not quite sure how high the rear will come back up by going all the way down on the preload. I had my preload at the lowest setting and when I turned the relay arm over it sat at TT level. So I screwed in the preload a quarter of the way down the threads on the shock and it sits right where I want it. Saved me $450.00 to have my rear redone to zero-preload.
I am familar with the durablue lowering kit, but on the Honda, and I can say I would rather do this than the durablue unit. I am sure it would be stronger than durablues'.
Blue Raptor: TCS Shocks, LoneStar A-Arms, DuraBlue axle, Fastline Brake Lines, Big Gun Pipe, GYTR Silencer, No-airlid, DG Bumper, Renthal Bar
#10