Yeah, I had to send my Piston and Rings to him to fit the rings to match the Bore, and yes it came back with a light coat of oil on all the pieces. My bad too for not being specific on the engine type, I can see now how that could be mistaken since it says Badger under my Profile Name

 

you guys should really make it a habit to clean and clean again any parts that were machined and not count on the shop to do the best cleaning job, i always clean mine right before i assemble it, think about it, they coat it with oil, and anything that happens when they are packing up the parts, or shipping or in your car is going to stick to that oil

 

Id totally parts wash,then clean and dry the cylinder w a rag to remove metal and machining shavings.Hit the cylinder w wd 40,thebore too, Id grease or use vasoline on the wrist pin ,bearing etc put a light coat of 2 stroke oil on the piston andput the piston w the arrow facing the right way or you will be out of another engine.When you get it all together torque it all dwn to right specs and do the break in process dont go and hammer it full tilt the 1st time out either.Let it run for a awhile cool down repeat several times.Retorque everything once it cools take out a few times for quarter half throttle varying runs and let it cool down do this 3 times I believe then after checking plug for jetting you can then run it full bore.The vaseline will melt once it gets hot but at least on 1st start up it wont be metal to metal in my opinion.

 

Thank you for all your suggestions!

I like Sugarheads approach and will most likely follow the same procedure.

As for 2 stroke oil, I use Golden Spectro in my Tecate 3 which is a good oil. Would it be ok to use the same oil in the Blaster?

 

I finally was able to put the engine back together on the Blaster. It runs excellent and the power difference is certainly noticeable

Thank you for all your help!
IronBear

 

Gotta do my 2000 Badger engine as well, did a compression check and have about 35 lbs. I never rebuilt a 4 stroke before. Did you just do the rings? Besides the full gasket rebuilt kit, what else did you change out?

 

I had the cylinder honed and bored .025 over, installed a new Wiesco piston/rings set along with new gaskets with an oil injection block off plate.

 

Cool, thanks for that post. Makes sense on an overbore. Hopefully my cylinder is fine and can just be honed. I'll keep it economy and just replace rings. Full Gasket Set goes without saying. Was your a 2 stroke?

 

Yes Yamaha Blasters have 2 stroke engines. Good luck with your engine.

 

I know you have this back together now, but just in case someone reads this in the future and is wondering the same thing just wanted to post about this.

Anytime you hone a cylinder you should clean it very well. I'd actually use a mild soap such as dawn dish detergent and lots of water. After cleaning, it needs to be dried well and then it MUST be coated with oil or it WILL rust and can do so as fast as over night if you live in a humid area. As for which type of oil to use I use some 2 stroke oil that I usually use in the machine. "Klotz is my favorite".

Some have said it will foul plugs, but that is not the case. It would have to be way more than would stay on the cylinder walls to foul the plugs. Yes it could smoke a bit, but its a two stroke, its going to smoke. The problem happens if it doesn't smoke. Thats when you have metal on metal.

Also, you asked about oil ratios on a blaster. Normally I'd run 32 to 1 for the blaster since it is air cooled. Some are going to tell you 50:1 but that is really for water cooled applications. Yamaha actually suggests more. I think it is 28:1 or something, but with a good oil 32:1 is fine.

Hope this helps clear up any misconceptions.