I know we've been over this before, but I still need some clarification. I ordered a new locknut assembly for my Raptors Durablue eliminator 2+2 axle and need to know where the 1/8" gets shaved from. Does it come off the back of the nut? If so, wouldn't that remove the entire flange that extends down by the splined section? Or do I shave the brake hub? What is the point of shaving it to begin with?

 

If you just bought it new you shouldent have to shave a 1/8 inch off. I used a banshee nut before they redesigned it. Durablue told me they were making the new nuts 1/8 shorter now and they still work on the banshee and raptor. I`m still wondering if your Raptor got twitchy with the +2 front rims and what you did to correct it?

 

Thanks for the info on the locknut. I'll compare the new one to the one that came with the axle.

The +2 offset wheels work great. They require more effort to turn than if I had kept the stock wheels and added +2 a arms, but overall they accomplish the same thing for a lot less money. The problem is with the steering stem nut loosening up and allowing play between the stem and the tierods. As far as the cause of the nut loosening up, I don't know. I guess the extra leverage of the offset wheels could aggrevate the problem. I still plan on picking up the castle nut that someone had suggested, it can't work any worse than what I have now.

 

If you do have to shave it, the part that gets it is the sleeve with the threads on the outside. You need to machine 1/8 inch off the end opposite the snap ring groove. The reason it must be shaved is because it is darn near impossible to get the snap ring in place due to the sleeve being a little too long. I actualyy have the old nut on my Raptor and I managed to get it to work by using a file to bevel the inner edge of the sleeve just enough to get the ring in.