2008 Big Bear 400 IRS final drive
#1
#2
"Final drive" to me means the rear axle, however I assume you are referring to something else, as front wheel drive would still work, but what? primary clutch secondary clutch, gearbox, what? Any of that is going to cost a lot. All of that is going to cost as much as the bike is worth. Find out what is wrong first, then get it fixed.
#3
We’re on the same page. When I engage 4wd the bike moves, but in 2WD the driveshafts just spin. I would have said “rear diff” but Yamaha calls it the final drive. I found a new complete unit from Partzilla for $585, so I think I’m going to (begrudgingly) go that direction. Thanks for the reply.
"Final drive" to me means the rear axle, however I assume you are referring to something else, as front wheel drive would still work, but what? primary clutch secondary clutch, gearbox, what? Any of that is going to cost a lot. All of that is going to cost as much as the bike is worth. Find out what is wrong first, then get it fixed.
#5
I priced out the parts and it actually made more sense to just get a brand new unit. $279 for the ring gear set, $160 for friction discs (they're worn to the indicator), and $90 for a bearing & seal kit. To me the $50 I'd save by rebuilding it wasn't worth it.
#6
Yes, Yamaha are odd, in that a new rear axle seems to come out every couple of years, they never settle on any design. I note on new ones they seem to have gone back to external disc brakes. So your chances of a used diff are slim. Best to check what is wrong first though, the solid rear axle models used to wear out the axle splines in the crownwheel and I have known prop shaft splines to wear out too. So, if it was a similar fault on your machine, it might not be the gears you need.
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