A iron Piston?!?! lol.. think of how big them lobes on the crank would have to be to counter balance a iron piston!! not to mention how much larger the connecting rod would have to be in order to hold onto that papper weight.
Also piston skirts break mostly from to much space between piston and wall..

EFI would be the way to go.. but if you get it jetted up good you shouldnt have any probs..
But I would recommend a forged piston over the stock cast piston..

Mods. I would also recommend some porting and pipeing it. All that forced air should have a easy exit.

Good Luck sounds like it would be fun!

 

It's all a matter of jetting, snowmobiles have been running turbos for quite a few years with the OEM cast pistons with good luck. It all comes down to proper tuning and set-up. EFI systems with turbos are far easier, fuel maps and timing curve can be mapped much easier.

A turbo isn't your average weekend warrior set-up. It requires a good set-up, constant vigilance, and preventative maintenance.

 

GuyRaptor, I loved your explanation of a blow-off valve, but you've forgotten one very important reason for having one.

The sound that the blow-off valve makes when it is opened is probably one of the coolest sounds there is. I'd buy a turbo kit just for the sound of the rushing air that the turbo makes, followed by the unmistakable "psheeew" of the blow-off valve.

Very cool.

 

My argument isn't that the aluminum won't hold up at all, but rather it's not the strongest way to turbo. Here's what happens to a vast majority of new turbo owners; they get greedy. When you first get the boost the rush is intense. After a few months you get bored with 2psi so you jump to 4psi. Then that gets boring so you go to 6psi and the cycle continues until something lets go. In my 9 years it's just about the same story. It's the guys with their first turbo motors that blow them up, not the guys who have greater experience. I've built close to 100 turbo motors (mostly DSM with a few Honda's) and of those more than half are just simple rebuilds because somebody got greedy with the boost. Too many people go at turbo motors with the attitude of, "Hey, I want more power but porting the intake and exhaust is too expensive so I'll just up the boost a few more pounds." This is a short-sighted look at engine longevity just for quick power. The forged aluminum stuff will work as long as the proper tune is kept and it isn't overboosted.

 

I called Mr. Turbo and talked to a guy there. This is what he had to say. The price is $2,995 for all the neccessary stuff. The installation can be done by about anyone.....even you! It DOES NOT have an intercooler but he says the way they designed it...it doesn't need one. It has controlable boost...with 14lbs. of boost they got 85RWHP out of it!!! He said a stock engine will work just fine. The only modifications it needs is you have to send in your carb for them to modify and your head pipe for one that is already modified. You don't have to run race gas. There is no blow-off valves but again....he said the way they designed it.....you don't need them. They have NO EFI kit for it either. I AM DEFINITLY GETTING ONE!!! They are taking orders on them now and are about to start shipping them. I have to wait till I get the cash and will then be ordering one.

 

Going to be a steep learning curve thats for sure... Better keep the extra $2000 around for another motor...

RoostKing...

 

Ha, ha! 14psi on a stock motor running the stock compression with no intercooler! Tick...tick...tick...BOOM!! The "way they designed it" allows for no intercooler for everyday use?? Not at 14psi on a weekend warrior. Besides that, they can quote hp numbers until they're blue in the face but I can guarantee you that that 14psi was run on one dyno pull. That will not hold up to everyday use. ALL turbos make heat, there is no turbo "designed" to run without an intercooler and be very efficient. They probably tell you that because you're only supposed to be running 3-5psi. Look at the early Grand Nationals that were running without intercoolers. They weren't making as much hp as the intercooled cars and their engine failure rate was MUCH higher. You can run 5psi on the non-intercooled kit but I can take that same set-up and intercool it and make the same hp with 3psi. The intercooler provides for a cooler intake charge which makes more power at a lower pressure. This all equates to a safer turbo motor.

I'm not trying to talk you out of it but I just want you to know the risks. The whole "designed to not need an intercooler" is code for "we don't have room" or "we didn't spend the money in R&D for one." Don't you think it's kind of odd that other turbo kits run intercoolers on quads? In the world of turbo cars an intercooler is a must. You don't even think of turboing without an intercooler.

 

Somewhere I read that an intercooler was almost exactly like a radiator? Can I use the stock radiator for an intercooler too? If not....can I take an intercooler and put it on myself and will it work w/ the turbocharger? If it doesn't have a blow-off valve...can I put one on it or can I take any old turbocharger and put it on the raptor? Is the boost ajustable by the amount of throttle you give it or is it adjustable before you go riding and have a limiter to it? If it doesn't have a blow-off valve....where does the boosted,non-used air go? give me anymore info you can.....I really appreciate the help all you guys are giving me. Thanks

 

An intercooler is much like a radiator but you can't use one as a substitute for an intercooler. You might buy a used factory intercooler out of a first gen Talon or Eclipse because they are rather small. You could buy some radiator hose and plumb it yourself but try to make it as smooth as possible (limit the '2" pipe here to 1-1/2" elbow back to 2" pipe' scenario). No, you can't just throw any BOV on your turbo set-up. You definitely can't use any old turbo on your bike!! Boost is controlled my a couple of different means. One is indirectly the throttle. Remember, the turbo is spooled by your exhaust gas passing through it so the more throttle you use the more boost you're going to create. Also, boost is controlled via a wastegate (an elementary explanation is it's a door and when the system detects too much boost it opens that door and routes the exhaust around the exhaust turbine so it doesn't make any more boost; conversely, when it wants to make boost it shuts that door and routes more air through the turbo and creates more boost). There is a small vaccuum line that sends the wastegate a "signal" and this is how the gate knows to open or close. You can manipulate this signal by using a small aquarium bleeder valve or buying a more expensive manual boost controller. With these 2 methods you can set maximum boost pressure. Smaller turbos make less boost but they spool quickly and make power on the bottom. Larger turbos spool more slowly but make more boost on the top. You just about answered your own question; where does that boosted, non-used air go if there's no BOV? Why it goes back into the turbo and leads to potential problems (weakens or breaks impellar fins, damages bearings).

There is a lot to be cautious about when it comes to turbos. They can be extremely fun and reliable when tuned right and not abused but they can also bite you in an instant.

 

I got a reply from a guy in the *cough* *cough* Bombardier forum. He said the reason Aerodyne didn't put an Intercooler on it is because of the stop and go situations of an ATV rider. He said it would basically make the intercooler useless because you have to have mass amounts of air flowing over it to make it work efficiently. The alternative he said is made by a company call "AquaMist". They have a system that is put on a turbocharger and injects a mixture of water/methanol. I don't really like the idea of keeping a stock of Methanol around....beings it's highly explosive....but cools stuff really good.