How do you find top dead center on a 2001 Kodiak. It's time for the 1st service and I can't find a service manual. Any help on adjusting the valves would be greatly appreciated.

 

On my old 230 you had to take the right sidecase off and line up the flywheel. On my 300 you have to take an inspection bolt out and look. I would think it would be like the 300.

 

Since I have an extended warranty I let the dealer adjust mine. But, if I was doing it myself I would try to find TDC by using the pull rope. The other suggestion might work too but the pull rope is much more convenient "if it works". Good luck.

 

I have a factory service manual for a 2001 at home. I had the dealer do it the first time so have not done it yet. But, I remember reading about it in the book. You have to remove the pull starter and maybe a side cover to expose the end of the crank. You can then turn the crank with a wrench. There has to be a window or something to see the TDC marks(it may be under a plug I can't remember). I don't have a computer at home to give you more specific instructions so it'll have to wait until tomorrow. Remember to take the plug out so you don't have compression to deal with and most importantly, do it on a cold motor.

 

Dan98Warrior, thanks for the help. Could you tell me what kind of mark to look for on the crank? On my Rubicon, it was a "T".

Also, did you get your manual online?

 

Sure, I will read it tonight and post in the morning.

 

up2snuf,
I got called back into work last night before I could check the manual and didn't get home until after midnight. I didn't want to seem like I was letting you hang,but I never thought to bring the book with me today. I will have all of the specifics for you on monday. Sorry.
Dan

 

Dan98Warrior, thanks for not forgetting. I know you're busy but I would appreciate getting the info.

 

Here is what the manual says.
1. Remove seat, front rack, front fender, and gas tank

2. Remove valve covers (When you take them off, notice on the inside is a V shaped ridge. This goes up when re-installing.) and spark plug.

3. Remove pull starter.

6. Remove timing plug. This is located under the pull starter at between 2 and 3 o'clock near the outside of what yopu have just exposed.

7. With a wrench on the end of the crank, align the "T" mark on the flywheel with the mark on the crankcase (the book shows it to be a notch at the edge of the hole).

8. There are two times in the cycle that the piston is at TDC, once on the exhaust stroke, and again on the compression stroke. Watch the valves and make sure you are on the compression stroke.

9. Once you have everything lined up, loosen the lock nut on the valves and adjust accordingly.

CLEARANCES

Intake 0.06-0.10 mm
0.0024-0.0039

Exhaust 0.16-0.20 mm
0.0063-0.0079 in

I always turn the crank a few revolutions and check the clearances again. I do this a couple of times just to be sure they are correct.

The actual time spent on adjusting the valves is only a couple of minutes. The pain in the neck part is taking everything off and putting it all back together again. I haven't done my Kodiak yet, but my Warrior took about 30 or 45 minutes. The Kodiak has a lot more plastic and stuff to remove, so my guess is that to do this, it would take at least an hour. Especially the first time. Hope this helps!! Good luck!!
Dan

 

Dan, thanks a bunch for all the trouble. I won't have any problem adjusting them with the nice directions. BTW, you might check your specs on the intake valves. I believe the mm numbers to be correct but the inches don't add up. I checked with the dealer and they said .06 -.10 mm or .0024 -.0039 in.

Anyway, that seems like a lot of tolerance. I think I'll set the intake at a loose .003 in. and the exhaust at a loose .007 in.

thanks again.....up2snuf