I am looking for suggestions on where I can drop the raptors weight. Why is it that most manufacturers of aftermarket products don't typically list the weight of their products? I would think that would be a point of consideration for anybody wanting to do just about any type of racing. It would allow you to factor in durability vs weight savings etc.. Thanks!

 

Raptorfrog,

I don't think that there are a lot of areas that you could skimp on weight vs. durability any more than Yamaha did.

As you probably know with your GYT-R parts, just about everything you change out on your Raptor is heavier built.

Personally, it would be a lot easier for me to drop 10 lbs. off of myself that from my Raptor.

My next option before going to lightweight components would be to just build up the power a bit in order to increase the hp/weight ratio.

However, if you've got to get every last ounce off you your Raptor, going to an aftermarket exhaust will cut a few lbs. off. Consider getting some of the high tech brake rotors with an extreme amount of steel cut out of them. They may save you a few ounces. Don't forget your tires when you have to select new ones. There is a big difference in the weight of a 2-ply and a 6-ply and since they are part of a rotating mass, their weight is even more critical. Race cut front fenders may save a pound or two and removing the front headlights could help some too.

The above are ideas that may or may not make a notable difference. Personally, my opinion is to build the Raptor to each person's handling and durability needs and then build the motor to compensate.

 

RaptorFrog,

I'm no expert but I think you are going to have a tough time trimming much weight from a Raptor. Yamaha did everything they could to keep the weight under 400 lbs. - plastic skids, aluminum upper A-arms, axle too thin, etc. Their goal was to look good for the magazines and those riders who only compare specs.

So what does everyone do as soon as they get a Raptor? They start replacing those parts, just as you did, and start adding weight. It would be interesting to know how much a Raptor with full aluminum skids, Lone Star +3 axle, Lone Star +2 extended swing-arm, Lone Star +2 A-arms, and custom shocks with remote ressies weighs. You can bet you A** that it's over 400 lbs.

There isn't much you can take off except the emergency brake cable and the headlights. That probably wouldn't equal the weight difference in the extended axle.


Good luck,

 

RaptorFrog,

Just got my Lone Star axle and using a bathroom scale it is 3 lbs. heavier than the stock axle. I'm sure the scale is not very accurate but it gives you an idea.

I think Bash's comments are right on, "I don't think that there are a lot of areas that you could skimp on weight vs. durability any more than Yamaha did. ...Personally, it would be a lot easier for me to drop 10 lbs. off of myself that from my Raptor."

 

I asked the folks at Durablue and Lonestar about the weight of their axles before I bought my Lonestar. The guys at Durablue said the X-33 weighs about 13 lbs with the hubs that it comes with and the Eliminator weighs about 13 lbs (without hubs). The guys at Lonestar said the Axcalibar weighs about 18 lbs (also without hubs). Does this agree with the bathroom scale reading? I think a better way to weigh something relatively light using a bathroom scale is to weigh yourself both with and without the axle in your hands. The difference will be the weight of the axle. I'm also curious about the weight gain of the parts I'm adding, but I haven't changed my axle out yet so I have no idea if these numbers are correct.

 

FourStrokeFan,

I was only interested in the weight diff. between the stock axle and the Lone Star. I put a 75 lb. toolbox on the scale with each of the axles. The Lone Star came out 3 lbs. heavier.

 

Oh, I thought the bathroom scale reading you took may just have been by resting each axle on the scale and comparing the two weights. A three pound difference isn't bad at all.

By the way, I see in your signature that you have a +3 Lonestar axle. I thought I remember reading the posts a while back that the Lonestar was actually a +4. I have mine right here next to me (hasn't been installed yet) and it's 32 3/4" (with spacers) between the points where the hubs make contact (30 3/4" without spacers). I don't have the stock axle here, but if it's 28 3/4" between the same points, then the Lonestar is definitely a +4.

 

Rducing Raptor weight...
The Yoshimura full race titanium pipe will do big part of the job, then some ITP rims will probably be lighter than stock. Check tyre weights too. Trim as much plastic as you can, take headlights off, put a smaller battery (if you're racing, you could use a small one that allows 4-5 restarts), take off bumper, foot rests (not the foot pegs!), check titanium or aluminium axles from RAD (or RPM, can't remember), aluminium handlebars, no parking brake, make you plastics thinner (shave some thickness were you don't need it)...and go on a diet!

Actually, bash said pretty much everything...

 

get the yamaha carbon fiber silencer, some carbon fiber rims and some 2 ply tires. that will save you a lot of weight i think.

 

There is excess weight for sure. Some of the things I have eliminated are:

The exhaust system (steel to aluminum), headlights, tailights, parking brake, heel gaurds, handlebars (steel to aluminum), bumper (steel to aluminum), grab bar (steel to aluminum), sprocket (steel to aluminum), plastic (fenders and front cowl)

Great places to add weight: A-arms (Aluminum to chromoly), helps keep the front down by changing the bias, axle (junk), wheels (reinforced won't bend), swingarm? (alunimum to chromoly)( But I think a good rider can keep the front down and any longer makes it a handfull to mx with)

Oh by the way, the whole or all of the parts from my Raptor are for sale. Dirt bikes are the way for me.